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PDW7880J10SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for PDW7880J10SS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PDW7880J10SS
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Leak from the bottom center

  • Customer: Ashraf from Merrick NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The connector pump had a pinhole leak at the seam (new part did not have seams). Also replaced the sump inlet which looked worn and the impeller.

Lay dishwasher on it's back to access the bottom. Loosen all clamps. Remove both U shaped holders on the sump inlet. Remove screws holding the drain motor. Pull out the pump motor and sump inlet. Connector pump can be unscrewed from the bottom.

Replace parts and reassemble. It isn't that bad once you start disassembly, especially for anyone somewhat handy.

Soap dispenser latch broke - never worked right

  • Customer: Steve from Lincoln CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

Replacement of soap dispenser

  • Customer: Bryan from Gilbert AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the broken/cracked soap and Jet Dry dispenser (i.e. MODULE RINSE AND CAP ASM - part #PS1481889). (Water was leaking into the soap holder and hardening the soap into a lump before the door would open, rendering the soad useless).

Steps:

1) Unplugged the dishwasher.
2) Unscrewed the 6 screws holding the front stainless steel panel to the plastic door; set aside panel and insulation.
3) Unplugged two wires from small electric motor in broken ASM.
4) Unscrewed 6 screws holding ASM in place; easily slid out of door.
5) Slid in replacement ASM and put 6 screws back in (tightened snugly to make slightly warped door bend to new ASM).
6) Plug back in two wires into new ASM.
7) Re-attached stainless steel cover to door (having a 2nd person hold this in place while screwing would've helped).

All done - works like a charm! No more dirty dishes because the soap didn't work right...

Bottom line: If you have a phillips head screwdriver, you can do this repair. Easy to do.

plastic hinge arm link broke causing door to flop open

  • Customer: Margaret from Meridian MS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Dishwasher leaking at bottom-Seal deteriorating.

  • Customer: Connie from Turlock CA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
The seal slides out to the side, but the diswasher had to be pulled out from the counter and the entire door had to be taken apart to do this because the hinge was in the way. In taking apart the door, we opened the front panel by taking out the screws along the sides and disconnected the computer connections. After loosening the hinge, we were able to slide the old seal out and the new seal in. When putting the door back together, it was difficult to reconnect the computer connections while holding up the door front, as these ribbon wires were quite short. We did get it back together and working except that the connection to the display light now doesn't work because it probably became disconnected as we put together the door. Also, the door now is not completely level when open making the bottom tray slide in. This is probably because we got the springs too tight. These things can be fixed, but will wait for another day.

Dishwasher wasn't cleaning properly

  • Customer: Taylor from Scotia NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench set
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
My dishwasher was doing a terrible job of cleaning. It was leaving food on dishes, and wasn't dissolving all the detergent. I replaced all the spray arms and the filter, as they seemed clogged, and god knows how old. It's a super easy repair, and the dishwasher now works as if it were brand new.

Actuator was broken

  • Customer: Sally from Saint George UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
When I first tried to fix the handle I could not figure out where the spring went. I went back online and looked at the diagram of the dishwasher on this site and learned where it went. Once I knew where every piece went it only took me about 5 minutes to put it back in and another 5 minutes to screw the cover back on. I am a newer homeowner and want to be able to do minor fixes. This was my first one and was very happy that I was able to do it on my own.

Latch to pop up door to soap dispenser broken.

  • Customer: Jonathan from Nashville TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!

Door handle actuator was broken.

  • Customer: Stephen from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screws on the inside of the door assembly, which allows the inside of the door to seperate from the outside. The escuchen (control panel) was easy to remove - the handle actuator is inside the control panel. The handle assembly was easy to take apart and re-assemble with the new handle and spring. I then inserted the control panel back into the outside door and reattached all of the screws with a power drill. This was a repair that a GE-authorized service tech told me was going to be over $540 - he claimed the control panel and door handle/actuator was a single assembly. In the end this repair cost me $14 in parts and 15 minutes of time. I complained to GE Consumer Affairs and they rebated the tech house call back to me in 5 business days.

Lower Tray wheels keep falling off and wobbly. Was a source of daily distress and complaining

  • Customer: Dennis from Gilbert AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 68 of 193 people found this instruction helpful
We considered buying a new lower rack for the dishwasher which we were told was a new dishwasher when we took over the house. The wheels were constantly falling off when sliding out the tray. They wobbled as well. With the weight of dishes in the rack and malfunctioning wheels, it was a disaster! We found your site on the internet and instead of a new rack we decided to order a whole new set of 8 wheels and axle roller studs. Installation was easy. It's like having a new dishwasher! Tray rolls in/out effortlessly. Great solution for the prices, fast delivery. Everybody is happy! Thanks.

Very, very easy. Took about 5 minutes. The end cap was on and working. And the repair company would charge $65 just to come out and look at it. It costs $9.00 to fix it. I am moving on to the refrigerator next. Very satisfied. Shipping is well worth the money. Ray D, Ansonia, CT

  • Customer: Raymond from ansonia CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.

Leaking Dishwasher Door Seals <4 yrs old

  • Customer: DJ from Franklin MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Gasket it self was simple. Just pull out the old rubber gasket and "stuff" in the new one. Note the new gasket was 1-2" short, so I used a piece of the old gasket to fill in the missing length.

The "short seal" was a bit of a mystery on how to actually remove the old one. Taking off the door panel, and almost all the screws on the door did nothing to get access to the short seal. Finally, I simply pryed up the plastic door liner just enough to slide out the old seal. it has a "slot" that engages a plastic bar within the door. Putting in the new was a bit trickier, but after some three handed effort I was able to slide and then snap in the new seal.

So, in the end I really needed to remove NO screws to do the job.

After 10 washes, all seems good with NO leaks.

Bottomline, for a 4 year old dishwasher needing these parts is a bit silly. Older dishwashers I owned lasted 10-15 years with ZERO problems.

So much for GE buying all their appliances in China.......

The wire cage began rusting

  • Customer: Gabriel from La Mesa CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
The bottom rack just pulls out so that was an easy replacement. The upper rack required a 1/4" nutdriver to remove the sprayer from the rack and a slot screwdriver was used to remove the tab that was holding the rack to the slide arm. Total time, 10 minutes tops!

The cat brought in a rat which ate holes in the sump inlet.

  • Customer: Tom from Bethesda MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First, I took off all the pipe clamps and retaining brackets. Then, I pried it out of there. One of the tabs holding one of the other bits to the body got busted, but it didn't matter, as it is held on very well just by the pipe clamp connection. I stuck the new one in and re-attached all the hoses. The GIANT complication was that a new floor had been installed over the old floor, right up against the kick plate- so in order to remove the dishwasher, I had to slice open the counter, as the new floor prevented sliding it out. To prevent the problem recurring, I spray painted over the sump inlet to make it taste worse. This is the downside of a cat door.

Growling/vibration noise during the wash cycle.

  • Customer: Walter from Maple Grove MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Hint on determining if the Main Conduit is the cause. Place a tapered flat piece of wood (wooden spatula) between the Main Conduit and rear of the dishwasher wall and remove any excess play.
Run the wash cycle and determine if the noise goes away or is reduced.

Removal and Replacement of the Main Conduit Assembly:
Opened the Dishwasher door and removed the lower and upper basket.
The upper basket required the two rubber gourmets on the front of the rail to be removed by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of white farthest tab towards the rear of the dishwasher of the rack slide end cap (PS2370502 – Item 652) and twist the screwdriver while gently pushing the top of the tab towards the rear of the dishwasher and gently pulling on the end cap (The rear tab needs to clear the upper rack slide).
Repeat this process on the other upper rack slide and remove the upper rack assembly.

Using a ¼ inch socket driver, remove the Main Conduit (PS651676 Item 585) screw located in the back of the Dishwasher wall and the screw from the upper spray arm (PS260547 Item 570) located on the roof of the unit.
Remover the lower Spray arm by gently pulling up and turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the fine filter hub nut (PS259078 item 454 ) by turning it counter clockwise and the fine filter (PS259068 item 452) The fine filter has a small tube going into the bottom of the dishwasher base that should be removed at the same time of the filter. Be sure to position it correctly when it is reassembled.
There is also a small stainless washer in the bottom of the fine filter housing. Take care not to loose it during the assembly and disassebly process

Remove the Main Conduit from the plastic assembly in the drain of the dishwasher by turning it counter clockwise. (Note, the new Main Conduit Assembly comes with this part pre assembled). Remove the same plastic piece from the new Main Conduit assembly by carefully lifting the clip on it.
Install the new piece back in the drain and tighten just prior to being pointed toward the back of the dishwasher.
Reassemble the Main Conduit to the drain piece and tighten it the remainder of the way and reassemble all parts in the reverse order they were removed.
All Instructions for the PDW7880J10SS
16-30 of 220