Models > PDW7880J10SS > Instructions

PDW7880J10SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for PDW7880J10SS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PDW7880J10SS
31-45 of 251
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Lower Tray wheels keep falling off and wobbly. Was a source of daily distress and complaining

  • Customer: Dennis from Gilbert AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 69 of 194 people found this instruction helpful
We considered buying a new lower rack for the dishwasher which we were told was a new dishwasher when we took over the house. The wheels were constantly falling off when sliding out the tray. They wobbled as well. With the weight of dishes in the rack and malfunctioning wheels, it was a disaster! We found your site on the internet and instead of a new rack we decided to order a whole new set of 8 wheels and axle roller studs. Installation was easy. It's like having a new dishwasher! Tray rolls in/out effortlessly. Great solution for the prices, fast delivery. Everybody is happy! Thanks.

Growling/vibration noise during the wash cycle.

  • Customer: Walter from Maple Grove MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Hint on determining if the Main Conduit is the cause. Place a tapered flat piece of wood (wooden spatula) between the Main Conduit and rear of the dishwasher wall and remove any excess play.
Run the wash cycle and determine if the noise goes away or is reduced.

Removal and Replacement of the Main Conduit Assembly:
Opened the Dishwasher door and removed the lower and upper basket.
The upper basket required the two rubber gourmets on the front of the rail to be removed by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of white farthest tab towards the rear of the dishwasher of the rack slide end cap (PS2370502 – Item 652) and twist the screwdriver while gently pushing the top of the tab towards the rear of the dishwasher and gently pulling on the end cap (The rear tab needs to clear the upper rack slide).
Repeat this process on the other upper rack slide and remove the upper rack assembly.

Using a ¼ inch socket driver, remove the Main Conduit (PS651676 Item 585) screw located in the back of the Dishwasher wall and the screw from the upper spray arm (PS260547 Item 570) located on the roof of the unit.
Remover the lower Spray arm by gently pulling up and turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the fine filter hub nut (PS259078 item 454 ) by turning it counter clockwise and the fine filter (PS259068 item 452) The fine filter has a small tube going into the bottom of the dishwasher base that should be removed at the same time of the filter. Be sure to position it correctly when it is reassembled.
There is also a small stainless washer in the bottom of the fine filter housing. Take care not to loose it during the assembly and disassebly process

Remove the Main Conduit from the plastic assembly in the drain of the dishwasher by turning it counter clockwise. (Note, the new Main Conduit Assembly comes with this part pre assembled). Remove the same plastic piece from the new Main Conduit assembly by carefully lifting the clip on it.
Install the new piece back in the drain and tighten just prior to being pointed toward the back of the dishwasher.
Reassemble the Main Conduit to the drain piece and tighten it the remainder of the way and reassemble all parts in the reverse order they were removed.

Very, very easy. Took about 5 minutes. The end cap was on and working. And the repair company would charge $65 just to come out and look at it. It costs $9.00 to fix it. I am moving on to the refrigerator next. Very satisfied. Shipping is well worth the money. Ray D, Ansonia, CT

  • Customer: Raymond from ansonia CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.

The cat brought in a rat which ate holes in the sump inlet.

  • Customer: Tom from Bethesda MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First, I took off all the pipe clamps and retaining brackets. Then, I pried it out of there. One of the tabs holding one of the other bits to the body got busted, but it didn't matter, as it is held on very well just by the pipe clamp connection. I stuck the new one in and re-attached all the hoses. The GIANT complication was that a new floor had been installed over the old floor, right up against the kick plate- so in order to remove the dishwasher, I had to slice open the counter, as the new floor prevented sliding it out. To prevent the problem recurring, I spray painted over the sump inlet to make it taste worse. This is the downside of a cat door.

dishwasher check valve

  • Customer: ted from columbia SC
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela!
The valve was there, but unavailable.
A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up.
Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper.
A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter
All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller.
After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve.
I found it hear for under $10

The wire cage began rusting

  • Customer: Gabriel from La Mesa CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
The bottom rack just pulls out so that was an easy replacement. The upper rack required a 1/4" nutdriver to remove the sprayer from the rack and a slot screwdriver was used to remove the tab that was holding the rack to the slide arm. Total time, 10 minutes tops!

Upper rack kept dropping from the wheels when we pulled it out

  • Customer: Joel from Cypress TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.

The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.

Lost Rinse Aid cap

  • Customer: Jerome from Arlington VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Inserted new cap purchased from PartSelect.

Gasket missing from factory, caused dishwasher leak when ran.

  • Customer: Jennifer from San Antonio TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Took off old funnel fill and put in funnel fill gasket and new funnel fill just to have a new one.

rack slide end cap missing

  • Customer: Carrell from Cochranville PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
installed part on inside end of rail. no tools needed. original part wouldn't stay on rail. finished in 2 minutes
wife happy

White latch on soap dispenser broken- would not latch

  • Customer: David from Stamford CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.

Door Latch Broke

  • Customer: Erik from New York NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
This isn't a terribly tricky repair, and the parts are cheap so it's worth a try!

(I had one tricky thing which was the door actuator broke while the door was shut. So I had to get the machine out of it's space without being able to open the front of the machine. I did this by lowering the feet in the front of the machine and then I used a hammer and flat chisel to break the two metal screws I had holding the top of the machine to the top of counter top...a little tricky!)

Remove screws from inside lower panel (where you put soap..the bottom) this will allow you to remove the inside of the door. But be careful as there are still wires attached so be careful to place the inside part without stressing the wires.

I needed to remove the metal harness and to open the black rectangular box that holds the interlock plunger so I could remove the plunger and spring (don't lose..and remember how it goes. take pictures if necessary). Then I was able to remove the broken actuator and see how it all fits together. It rests on top of the latch with notched side facing the inside of the machine. Make sure the notch is centered around where the interlock plunger is located.

Once you have the pieces fit together insert them into the door. Replace the plunger and spring and close the black rectangular box. Then replace the metal harness.

Hold everything in place and put the inside of the door back into position and lock it down with the screws.

You can test the door to make sure it's working but the whole mechanism is less functional when the machine isn't secured into its space. So, if you're mostly sure you've got it right, resecure the machine into its space making sure it's solid and then you should be good.

Like most everyone here I was very happy to accomplish this repair without calling in the repair service!! Awesome.

leaking door

  • Customer: Burl from Newnan GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The gaskets arrived in a few days after my order. The tub seal was easy to change and tool only a few minutes with no tools. After I watched a video on the GE website I pulled out the old gasket, wiped out the slot, centered the new gasket at the top, pushed it in the slot to each corner.Then I pulled the end to the end of the track and pushed it in the full side from the bottom up. repeated on the other side.The lower gasket was harder and took about 40 minutes. I took eh door apart but did not need to it could be done with a mirror. Pull the old one out from one side. Don't be afraid of tearing it but get it all out. The new one will snap into the slot if you use a mirror to look in the door and see.

old part leaked

  • Customer: robert from east windsor CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet, then I flipped dishwasher on it's side. loosen pump motor bracket arm on the end of the motor. loosen pump motor to pump conecter hose clamp and then unscrewed pump motor connector from dishwasher. To install I did the reverse. very easy.

Leak at door bottom

  • Customer: Edwin from Hallettsville TX
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removing and replacing the door gasket is simple. No tools required.
Removing and replacing the short bottom door seal is next to impossible. I finally got instructions from the Sears help website, but even then I am not sure if this method really applies to my dishwasher, even though they were given the make/model of the unit. I have not attempted to do this proceedure as of now but will try it when I get enough cofidence that it is indeed the correct procedure for my unit.
All Instructions for the PDW7880J10SS
31-45 of 251