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Dryer Baffle broke off and rear felt seal was pulled out
1. Remove 2 screws that hold door hinges on. 2. Remove 2 screws on opposite side of door hinge and remove 2 plastic clips. 3. There are 2 hex screws that hold the front panel on. Remove these and the panel is held on by a flex clip. Gently twist the top towards the outside of the dryer and they will come free. 4. tilt panel forward and lift of 2 clips at the bottom. 5. Remove the screws under the cover panel which will release the drum holder and lint collector. 6. Lift top of dryer and lift out drum. TAKE THE TIME SINCE THE UNIT IS OPEN TO VACUUM OUT THE ENTIRE DRYER. CLEAN OUT THE EXAUST TO IMPROVE EFFICIENCY AND SAFETY. 7. I replaced the rear felt by using a flat head screwdriver to lift tabs and install felt. Using the screwdrive I compressed the tabs to hold the felt. 8. The baffle was installed inside the drum and using 2 hex bolts to hold the baffle in. I added 2 washers since the hole was inlarged due to the baffle becoming loose and pulling through the metal drum. 9. Re-install the drum and push rear felt to the outside of the drum. 10. The front drum needs to be installed. Push the felt to the outside of the drum and check the rear felt to ensure it is still on the outsid of the drum. Install 4 hex screws to secure front drum holder. 11. Insatall lint catch unit with 4 additional hex screws. 12. Verify the lint collection panel lins up with the exhaust fan at the base. When units line up tighten all 8 hex screws. 13. Reinstall front cover panel by inserting panel on bottom clips and tilt up to the dryer. The top corners are gently twisted to the outside of the dryer to reattach to the spring clips. Use 2 hex screws to attach panel. 14. Re-attach plastic clips and 2 screws on side opposite of door hinges. 15. Re-attach door hinges with 2 screws. Cleck to ensure the door closes. 16. Check dryer operation.
I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.
All three baffles fell out of dryer drum; one by one in a week time span; of course the warranty expired in May of 2007. Figures!
Had to remove the dryer door and back top screws to access the drum. Once this was accomplished all that had to be done was to turn the drum by hand and replace each baffle and (two) screws each.
Dryer stopped heating after a few days of it being an intermintant problem. I ohmed the heating coil and it was fine @ 12-15 ohms and the 2 sensors were open so I knew they were not the problem. The only item left was the Heater Relay. As soon as it was changed, dryer operated as it should.
After the first flame the flame would not come back on
Turned out to be the primary coil on the gas valve. If you remove the cover of the coils and wait for the dryer to try to start the flame the coils are energized, a magnet is turned on. By lifting the coil you should feel the magnet if the flame is on. If the flame does not come on after the ignitor fires check to see if the coils are energized. If not buy the set, it's cheaper then purchasing them separately.
Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.
A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.
The SE1000 (washer/dryer combo) dryer stop working and I checked the error code: 8E, which indicated a motor/relay circuit problem. I replaced the relay but I still have the problem. I'll have to check the motor but I think it's not available anymore. The belt is OK. The unit is 25 years old so it doesn't owe me anything. The washer still works.
Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.
1 - unscrewed door 2 - made a mess because the directions did not work for my dryer 3 - figured it out = eventually 4 - popped loose the front panel 5 - unscrewed metal bars (that were holding the top down in the front) 6 - lift front like a hood on a car 7 - unscrew the rest of the front until the drum was loose and I could get to the felt strip 8 - glue new strip on where the old strip was = to the front and back plates that hold the drum 9 - put it back together :)
