MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

There are screws in the door frame when opened... Remove them and the front panel can be lifted with the top of the Dryer... Once the inner bulk-head is removed , the barrel can be removed.. The belt routing can be tricky if you don't look at it before it is removed.. This will save you time....Since I intended to replace both drum rollers /shafts, I just removed the 1/2" nut on the back of the shaft with an open end wrench for the right side, due to clearance, socket can be used on the left ... I also replaced the idler pulley, you don't need to replace the arm unless it is broken... Replace the belt as recommended for this Maytag model, which is smooth side w/ writing goes against the barrel...I then took some time to completely vacuum out the cabinet, the motor attracts all kinds of dust that should be removed.... I decided to go ahead an replace the Heating-element... Takes another 30 minutes but works way better than the old one ( energy -saver), as I have turned the dryer heat down to Medium and it still dries faster.... You need another set of hands to put the barrel back in and hold it until you get the bulk-head re-installed. After that it is back to a a one man job.. The Dryer now runs as quiet and efficient, as a new one... The Electric Motor will run for a 20+ years , as long as the Dryer turns easily... Open the cabinet ( now that you know how to do it ) , every other year and vacuum it out... There is a big difference in the amount of lint that is caught in the trap when the cabinet is clean..I figured I saved $350 by doing this vs. buying a new Dryer and that is huge @ Christmas time ! .. Well worth a Sunday afternoon.

A simple repair. Just a screwdriver was needed (and of course the latch parts), Took all of 5 minutes

Replaced the roller and shaft. The bearing on the roller had worn out and then worn down the shaft. We let this go on for over a year. The shaft was worn half away. Found the service manual for my dryer online and used it as a guide to taking it apart. First door, then a couple of screws. Removed belt, then drum. Replaced rollers and shaft. The damaged parts were obvious. The rollers and shafts require the socket and snap ring pliers. There was a layer of rust dust all over the inside of the dryer. Vacuumed out all of the lint and rust. Put everything back together. Works great now, no squeaking.

simply watch repair video on internet, make notes, and remember to note about brackets positions when reassembling

I pulled the dryer apart and found the belt dangling from the drum. Knee-jerked the purchase of a replacement belt without looking at anything else in the dryer.... (foreshadowing!!!!) When the belt arrived, it occurred to me that I hadn't considered that the old belt was still intact, just frayed a bit. At that point I found the idler pulley bushing had galled on its axle, and the plastic pulley had separated from the bushing and been ground down by the rotating belt. So I had to order (separately) the idler pulley. Using the GREAT video on belt repair (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z76qrBmSUeE), I had the new idler pulley and belt on and the dryer reassembled in about an hour. The only slightly tricky part was having to re-bend the E-clip that holds the idler pulley so it would be tight in its groove. Thanks 1x10^6 for the outstanding tutorial video! And make sure you do a complete evaluation before ordering your parts.....

Watched you tube video and followed instructions. Repair went well but the vibration still is present on start up. Considering this is not my line of work I think it was a matter of misdiagnosing the problem. The rollers were worn so probably not a total waste of time and money.

Unplugged everything. Removed door and front of dryer to get to drum. Removed drum with belt. Replaced the drummer rollers (2) and the idler pulley wheel. Cleaned up the posts they sit on real well and applied a grease that's safe at high heat as well. I believe the idler pulley wheel was the main problem -- it even squeaked when manually spun around! We removed some screws from the back panel that were unnecessary -- everything was through the front. We had to re-assemble some on the back. Needle nose pliars or specialty pliars for the little clip fasteners (available at Advance Auto Parts) is also good for removing and re-installing those clips.

I took the two screws out of the end of the door and the door handle off. Then able to part the interior of the door enough to replace the latch. The video was really great.

replaced roller shafts and rollers on both sides of drum to have new rollers to support drum. Works really well!

Took off door...pulled off front reached under drum and screwed in two screws....replaced front... screwed door back on...done

used the drum support roller kit an easy fix to a noisy problem

Replaced drum support roller (2) and multi rib belt noise is gone

I followed the instruction video on the Partselect.com website exactly except that I accessed the tensioner pulley through a panel on the rear of my dryer. Very clear and concise.

Your video made the replacement easy.Parts were sent in record time.

opened the dryer, cleaned link out. replaced roller.