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Models > MDE5500AYW > Instructions

MDE5500AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDE5500AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDE5500AYW
46-60 of 519
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Code 8.8. on display, would not start

  • Customer: phyllis from riverside, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed back 4 screws to move top off. Found it difficult to remove top but finally did it. Unscrewed 4 screws holding down circuit board. Drew myself a cheat sheet of where cable where and then removed cables. Two of the smaller cables were stuck and hard to remove. Once everything unplugged took out board and noticed the fuses were brown. Put in new board, hooked in cables and screwed in the 4 screws. Put top on and screwed in 4 screws. Plugged dryer back in and it worked perfectly. Saved $100 doing it myself.

One of the Baffles came loose.

  • Customer: Robert from Milford, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I took out screws holding top to dryer & raised the top & proped it up to gain access to inside of the dryeeer drum. I then inatalled the new baffle & secured it with 2 screws. It would have been better if the part came with new screws.It was hard to determine which was the right screws for this application.

Dryer shut off before clothes were dry

  • Customer: Paul from Tamaqua, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
The old sensor came out by removing 2 screws. I unplugged the two wires from the back of the sensor and plugged them into the new sensor. I reinstalled the new sensor using the same two screws. Of course, I unplugged the dryer first.

Noisy and thumping drum

  • Customer: Barry from League City, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I set the dryer on its back to make alignment of the front drum guide cover easy to reinstall in the seal after completion. I removed the 2 screws at the bottom front then removed the white and yellow wires to the interlock switch and set the front cover aside. I then removed the 4 nut screws holding the front drum cover and removed. On the back side there are two teflon and cork "bearings". I had ordered two even though only one was worn down to metal. On each one I then removed the two rivets by drilling them out. Then I placed the corks into the bearing slots with a little glue then inserted the teflon into the slots and riveted them into place with the rivets that came with the kit. I replaced the drum cover, connected the switch and screwed the dryer front cover back on. I set the dryer back up. Connected the vent hose and turned the dryer on. Beautiful sweet smooth and quiet operation. I had replaced the front and back drum seals a few months ago and saw the teflon was missing but did not have the kits at that time. With a complete job I would recommend replacing the front and rear drum seals and the two teflon/cork bearing kits at the same time.

Blower wheel over time became clogged w/lint & caused the dryer to vibrate

  • Customer: Carol from Onsted, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the dryer front, then detached the retainer ring holding the blower wheel in place. Set the new blower wheel, attached the new ring retainer and placed the dryer front back in place. Thank you for the low prices - I searched on-line at 3 sites and you were the best price available.

Over the last year the 'start' button has had to be held to 'start' the dryer, with a humming noise during the process. Eventually it hummed, stank, and wounldn't start.

  • Customer: Ryan from Raleigh, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Yanked the front panel, observed motor operation while my smoking hot wife started the unit. Our washer and dryer get beaten like rented mules with kid laundry. I tried this site, and decided to spend a little $$ on a replacement motor. I was impressed with the operator, she even asked what the symptoms were and helped to avoid wasting time and money.
The part arrived on time, and installed quickly. I am a hero in my wife's eyes, and that certainly carries weight.
Then again, I didn't have to dispose of the old dryer, pay for a new one, or haul the replacement upstairs.
Win-win!

My dryer - which is about 20 years old - was starting to make some rubbing/scraping sounds from the drum area.

  • Customer: Richard from Loretto, MN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site.
1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.
2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.
3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.
4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.
5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.
6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.
7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)
8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.

It's simple.

Dryer would not turn start

  • Customer: John from Midway, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I troubleshot the repair using the repair help section from Parts Select. It made finding the problem a snap. I then removed the four wires and two screws that held the heating element in place. Removed two screws that held thermal fuse in place and replaced. By accomplishing the repair myself I saved well over a hundred dollars.

I had a chirp coming from the unit when it was off.

  • Customer: David from apollo beach, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 12 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the part and it chirped..then stopped and it has been fine for several weeks and now it chirps again. It is like there is a cricket in there. I am hoping it stops again.

Squeaking sound then Barrel stoped turning

  • Customer: John from Palmdale, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the unit
Removed door and two clips that hold front panel on (6 Philip crews)
Then removed front panel by hand hold each side of the panel at the top
Of the “U” shape and pulling out ward until it frees it self from the two
Bottom clips.
You can now see a belt that is no longer tight around the drum
When I tried to put the belt back on I noticed the idler pulley was flopping around and I would need to replace it .That where you guys saved me.
Your exploded model and parts list made it easy to see exactly what parts I
Needed to order.
The rest gets a little tricky there is another plate that supports the barrel
A couple of clips that hold the top cover in place all of this must be removed
Note the top cover only need to be lifted up an inch or two at the front where the
Two steel clips where and doses not need to be removed to get this panel off that
Supports the barrel.
There are some wires attached to it also I only had to unplug the three that go to
The door safety switch then I was able to rotate it off to the side out of the way
And now the barrel can be lifted out. You can now remove the idler pulley assembly
I used pliers to remove the spring and a crocket wrench to remove a bolt that holds
The bracket that also should be replaced due to ware at the idler pulley barring pin
The tricky part is putting it all back together again. To explain this I would need to Wright a book. It takes a lot of good common sense. I was proud of how I reached
Around from each side of the motor and by feel alone and get the belt around
The motor pulley and the idler pulley that keeps the belt tight around the barrel
Makes me think I should have been a repairman.

no heat, coil wasnt getting hot

  • Customer: matthew from Central Islip, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
took old one out then i had to strip the connector off new one was to big...

Dryer ran hot

  • Customer: Larry from Swanton, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Took off door, then removed front of dryer to access the internal controls. Project went pretty darn well

Short Baffle in dryer drum was broke off

  • Customer: Wade from Lovell, WY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
This was fairly easy, I have had the dryer front off before. Unplug dryer from electrical outlet. Pull dryer away from wall. Remove the dryer door, open dryer door there are 2 phillips screws on dryer door hing, remove these crews then lift gently and remove door, across from these screws, where dryer door closes into face cover of dryer remove 2 more phillips screws. From top of face cover, pull out front of face cover and lift to remove face cover of dryer. On each side of dryer on the front, after removing the front cover is a 5/16 bolt, remove these and pull off retaining bracket with a twisting motion. You now can lift the top of the dryer up. You can now see the barrel drum. Rotate barrel by hand so the broken baffle is on top. Remove two 5/16 bolts, and replace new baffle in place. Reassemble in reverse order of disassemble.

The dryer drum would not rotate when the start button was pushed.

  • Customer: Bruce from Gladstone, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First this I did was to disconnect the power cord. Then I removed the screws that held on the door and the two on the other opposite side. This allowed the front panel to be removed. Next I removed the top two screws which allowed the top to hinge up and out of the way. Then I removed the rest of the screws that held the front drum support and moved it to the side. I did have to unclip the wires that ran to the interior light. I did not how ever have to disconnect any wires at the front of the dryer. Next I reached in from the bottom of the drum and released the drive belt from the spring loaded pulley. at this point the drum was able to be removed out the front of the unit. This gave access to the motor. It was necessary to remove the several screws that held on the front half of the fan housing. Again I did not remove any wires as this too could be moved to the side out of the way. I then removed the snap ring and clamp from the fan end of the motor shaft and pulled the fan off of the shaft. Next I unclipped the wiring connector from the top of the motor and used a screw driver to pry the connector off. Next I used a socket on a long extension to push down on the motor clamps while tilting the socket out to allow the clips to release. I then removed and replaced the motor and assembled in the reverse order. While I had the drum out I inspected the rear support wheels and noted that one would hardly turn. I removed both wheels via a nut on the back side of the shafts. I found that one had shifted on the bushing and was making contact with the frame. I used a vise to press the wheel back into the correct location. I also applied anti seize with a small amount of dry graphite to both wheels and insured that the both rotated freely. I then installed the front two glide slide pads using the pop rivets provided in the kits. I used a shop vac and cleaned any lint from inside the dryer. I then reassembled the front covers in reverse of the disassembly process. I rotated the drum by hand prior to applying power. I also ran the unit with the heat off for the first five minutes. Total cost was under $160.00 or half of the replacement cost.

Dryer continuously running, no timer advance, dampness indication stayed on "wet"

  • Customer: keith from saluda, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Took 3 screws out of the back of the back of the machine and tilted the control panel houseing forward. Slid the module free of it's track and unplugged the bundled wiring plug. Plugged new module, relpaced in is slot and put the control panel back in place
All Instructions for the MDE5500AYW
46-60 of 519