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dryer door would not close
discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!
After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!
First removed front door 2 screws holding it to frame, then removed 2 screws holding front cover panel on tilt out front panel, used vac to clean inside, removed idler arm with pully attached, replaced with new parts when I did a test run still had a llitle squeek, the drum support wheel on right looking from front making some squeeking,I went back in removed part shaft had small rust spot cleaned with jewelers cloth lubed and wiped off, no more squeek I wish I had ordered new drum wheel when I ordered idler parts, then I could have done a complete overhaul now I know more I have never worked on a dryer before the drawings on the web site heleped a lot
We could not find directions for the brand that we have. First we took the back off, which we did not need to do. lift the top of the dryer, remove the front remove drum. Place belt on front of motor, wrap double belt around support on bottom of dryer, open the remaining belt and stretch around drum. Hold drum in place, replace front and top. Need at least 2 people, not at all intuitive.
Others have described how to remove 4 screws and remove the front panel of the dryer. The problem I saw is that some screws broke off and fell inside while others remained on the separated baffle. The old screws that I found were 1 1/4 inch. The parts manual indicates a replacement screw that is 1 inch long and a number 10 width. One set of holes for the baffles has slotted holes. It appears that wear in the paint indicates movement before breaking off. My solution to the slotted holes was to use washers on the screws and to tighten the screws in the position where any force was not going to move the screws to the center position of the slots. The force of the separation caused the slotted holes to expand.
removed front door, removed front panels, lifted top back, unhooked belt, removed drum and belt, removed blower housing front, removed squirrel cage, removed blower housing, unplugged motor, removed motor assembly , ..switched new motor to motor cradle ... reversed process.
Unplugged the dryer (don't forget this step guys!!!)
Pulled the front off the dryer (4 screws) and swapped the motor out - take off the belt, pull the blower wheel (by removing the snaprigs and squeeze collar), then pull off the motor retaining clips... unplug the motor and install the new one in reverse. Took me less than 2 hours and my dryer works like new.
First thing to do. . . . Unplug the machine. After that, remove the top 2 screws from the cover from between the washing machine and the dryer and remove cover. Then remove the 2 screws from the top of the front dryer cabinet, pull front cover out slightly and gently let it lay forward. From this point, you can look in and see the drum rollers. Behind the rollers on the roller shaft is a 1/2" nut. Use a 1/2" gearwrench to remove the nut, and pull the shaft with roller attached out forward. Use snap ring pliers to remove snap ring, take off old roller with bushings, and replace with new. To re-install shaft with new roller, you will have to lift the drum slightly to give yourself enough room. Re-assemble the front of machine (note: be careful of the wiring on the control panel, as some connectors may have pulled loose. Make sure they are all connected before replacing front of machine). Plug machine in and test it out. While you have the machine open, use a good vacuum cleaner and remove the lint that you will find inside the machine. Depending on how old the machine is, you should find quite a bit.
One of the drum support rollers was worn out resulting in a loud screeching noise when the dryer was in use.
Read the instructions included with the parts, removed the 2 screws on the front of the dryer. Removed a couple of wire connections and 4 screws that held the drum in place. Moved the drum enough to have access to the roller supports. I removed the nut from the back of the supports with a 1/2" wrench. Placed the new supports on the old support pins and reinstalled them. Put it all back together. Probably the most difficult task was getting the drive belt back on the drum correctly. I was done in just over 1 hour.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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loud squealing noise
I had to remove the door first. Then the retaining brackets that hold the upper lid on. This also allowed removal of the front cover. After releasing the tension of the drum belt, I removed the drum and replaced the drum roller in suspect. Installation was reverse in order. Don't know why I waited so long to do such a simple job.
First I removed the two screws on the front panel that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3" and disconnected the two wires. Find out the roller broken. Place an order with Partselect from friend recommendation. Fast delivery, replace the broken roller, reverse the process and test the sound of the dryer. Very satisfied with the parts. Thanks!
After taking apart the machine (applianceaid.com has slideshows for most major appliances - very comforting and reassuring - highly recommended), I used a shop-vac to clean up all lint and dirt. After getting the retainer ring off the drum roller shaft (snap ring pliers highly recommended), I replaced the drum roller along with the glides which were completely worn through (rivet gun required). I reassembled the dryer to find that the drum wouldn't turn, so I placed another order for the other drum roller and replaced the belt too. Back in business.
