MDE10DAAEL Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I had already replaced the tumbler roller and st ha the same rumbling noise but quieter , so I inspected the blower wheel and it would spin on thr moter shaft , removed blower wheel and found that the moter shaft was D shaped but th4e bore of the wheel was round and the wheel was sloppy on the shaft. cleaned the shaft & install4ed a new blowe wheel , problem solved , runs ;like a new Drier !

Cleaned and greased rear drum support rollers.Fine emory cloth on roller shafts. Replaced front support glide strips. Replaced blower, retaining ring and clamp.

Just replaced the old one.

I used the Maytag website and their videos to troubleshoot. I learned how to access the blower wheel and found it was worn. This made it wobble on the shaft and grind in it's enclosure. I got on parts direct and ordered the new blower wheel. It is now installed and working great. No abnormal noise.

watched the u-tube video provided by you Part Select, very easy to follow, removed the thermostat and heating element as instructed, determined it was the thermostat and replaced it. The dryer works great. We saved alot of money thanks to Part Select.

Researched the common problem with "dryer not turning on", and tested the top three problems. Removed the dryer front casing and door, unbolted front dryer plate. Used a volt meter on two of the temp gauges, which were fine. Removed the upper back plate of the dryer to the wiring for the knobs and buttons. Used the volt meter on the dryer start button, which was also fine. Went back around to the front and removed the door switch. Tested it with the volt meter and bingo. Replaced that part, dryer works like normal.

first thing i did was look at the repair video 4 times. after that the replacement on of the guides were simple. thank you for suppling the video.

Followed your video for blower wheel and belt. It was much easier than I thought it would be. I'll visit this site before doing any other repairs!

I pulled the dryer out so I could get to the back of it. I removed the cover at the lower right side on the back to access the pulley and idler. I removed the front of the dryer by taking out the two screws at the bottom and pulling out the bottom until the top clips popped out. There were two wires for the door safety switch, I marked on the inside by the switch with a sharpee which color went on each side. Removed wires. Removed four screws to take off the bracket that holds the tumbler in place, that's to be able to put on the new belt. On my machine there is a groove in the tumbler that the belt should not go into, if it does it will make the belt appear too big and the belt will rub on things it shouldn't. Put the belt in place around the tumbler, then reinstall the bracket that supports the front of the tumbler, it's a good idea to rotate the tumbler to make sure it turns like it should. With the smooth side of the belt against the tumbler and the belt riding about an inch or so toward the front of the machine from the groove wrap the belt around the pulleys. The last two points seemed wrong by instinct, putting the smooth side of the belt against the tumbler and not putting the belt in the groove, but that's what worked for my dryer. Re-attach the door safety switch wires, then put the front back on. I did mine two weeks ago so I might have forgot a few minor points.

Watched your video, then did the repair it couldn't have been easier. They say a pictures worth a thousand words the video made it simple to do thanks for the fast shipping of the belt also. It took an hour because i spent 30 min cleaning out all of the old lent in the 21 year old dryer.

The videos detailing the replacement processes were right on the money. The only difference my dryer had was the location of the phillips screws holding the front panel. I did not need the stubby #2 philips like the example since my front cover retaining screws were not at an upward angle near the floor level. I used a 5/16" nut driver for the assembly that holds the front of the tub and the one screw on the bottom of the fan shroud, a 1/4" nut driver for the fan shroud screws, and a pair of 6" channel-locks for the wheel clamp. I had to buy an inexpensive snap ring pliers set since I did not own a pair. It was $14.00 at ACE Hardware for one with 4 sets of prongs for different sized retaining rings. Even with the purchase of the pliers - I easily saved myself over $100.00 doing this easy repair myself. The parts fit exactly - no difficulty with them at all. The new fan had a D-shaped hole that fit the motor shaft. The old one spun freely on the shaft, so it wobbled and made noise, and ran at a speed considerably less than the shaft speed, which accounts for the noise and the fact that the clothes did not completely dry.

The key was finding a youtube video of the appropriate model. Once I did, it was a piece of cake. Didn't even have to move the dryer, since the front panel simply lifted out, as did the drum. The only negative was that I endured hearing the squealing roller for three months longer than I needed to.

After watching the video on this web-site it was very easy. I took the time while I had the drum out to vacuum out everything inside the cabinet and sprayed the sealing felts with silicone spray before re-assembling the unit. Wallah!! No 'mo' squeaks. Tommy

Neither the washer or the dryer of the stacked unit would start. The website suggested that one of the causes could be the thermostat. I ordered a replacement that arrived quickly. Swapping the part only took minutes, and it started just fine.

removed front of dryer removed 4 mount screws replaced belt replaced dryer front