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MDB7100AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB7100AWB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB7100AWB
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Water under the dishwasher

  • Customer: Kurt from North Ogden UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 29 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
1. I removed the covers below the door and watched during a wash cycle to see where the water was leaking. There was a small pinhole on the rubber connector at the end of what turned out to be the "top shower hose". I was hoping I could just replace that rubber connector, but apparently it is permanantly attached to the entire "top shower hose" assembly.
2. To remove the top shower hose I first turned of the circuit breaker to the dishwasher.
3. I needed to slide the dishwasher about half way out of the cabinet, requiring removal of two screws at the top of the dishwasher attaching it to the counter.
4. I also had to turn off the water and disconnect the water supply hose (at supply valve, not inside the washer) because it had no slack to allow the dishwasher to slide out of the cabinet.
5. I removed the hose clamp at the bottom of the dishwasher.
6. I removed the top dish rack (there are clips on the ends of the rails that can be opened to allow the rack to come out).
7. I popped off the upper washer arm by fiddling with the clip mechanism. Then I removed the threaded "nut" holding the hose in place.
8. As others mentioned, it is good to remember to save and re-use the hose clamp and rubber washer.
9. Removed the old hose.
10. Ordered new hose, waited for delivery. Kids washed dishes by hand for a few days.
11. Installed the new hose. Replaced the rubber washer at the top end and fastened with the "nut." Replaced the washer arm and top dish rack.
12. Connected the bottom end of hose, re-using the hose clamp.
13. Positioned dishwasher back under cabinet and replaced screws.
14. Re-connected the water supply hose.
15. Turned circuit breaker back on.
16. Began using dishwasher again. Observed a few wash cycles to ensure no leaks.
17. Re-attached the covers below the door.
18. Done.

Dishwasher leaks water

  • Customer: Andrew from Northfield OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 29 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two plates located below the dishwasher door to expose the float switch. I removed the two screws holding float switch, I removed screw holding switch actuator, then I removed float assembly.
Installed new float assembly, but could not use the float palnut, it had too small of a hole, I substituted a larger one that fit the float better. Note I fitted the palnut to the float (the nut cuts it's own threads in the float) before installing the float. This made installation easier. Next I transferred the two wires from the old float switch to the new float switch in the same positions as the existing switch wires. Then I installed the float switch. Finally, I cleaned up the float switch actuator and screw so that the actuator moves freely on the screw. I then installed the float switch actuator and ran the dishwasher to check for proper operation. Note: this float and switch control the water level in the dishwasher. If the actuator sticks, the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the float has collected dirt inside, it will weigh more and the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the switch sticks or fails the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. That is why I relaced the parts: float and switch. I don't want to go back and work on this again.
Lastly, after a few days of proper operation, I installed the two plates located below the dishwasher door. Job done!

Dishwasher began making a grinding noise that sounded like someone being tortured

  • Customer: Larry from Bellefonte PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Figure out how to remove the spray arm (15 min); remove all the parts below (15 min); figure out what's not right (5 min). the pump discharge head is two parts. The flat disk that is attached to the under side of the discharge head came off and was being ground up by the impeller nut. Hence the noise. I superglued it back together and ordered the replacement parts. the superglue lasted through about 1 rinse cycle. The repair parts arrived the following day, and since I already knew how to disassemble and reassemble, the actual replacement was about 15 minutes. The dishwasher hasn't been this quiet in over 2 years.

The dishwasher wouldn't fill with water.

  • Customer: Jared from Rutland VT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I first turned off the water to the dishwasher, then the electricity to it, then took off the front bottom access panel, I then unbolted the inlet valve from the side of the machine, undid the electrical hookups remembering which one connected to which, then unclamped the two hoses, I then put the new one back in place, redoing the hoses and electrical and bolting it back to the side of the machine, then putting the front bottom access panel back on, then turning back on the water and electicity. The one thing that may make it easier if you can is to pull the dishwasher out from under the cabinets and lay it down so the bottom is exposed. This would make the process a little smoother.

Water Valve would not open to allow water into DishWasher

  • Customer: Bob from Allen TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 22 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the foot plate(s) at the bottom of the Dishwasher. (2 screws each side)

Then I removed the two top screws at the front of the dish-washer. The screws were mounted into a board under the counter that had broken loose. (A minor secondary issue specific to my situation.)

I gently inched the dishwasher out from under the cabinets.

SLOWLY, I tipped the dishwasher over on its side, allowing the water still inside to drain into a pan. Minor cleanup required for the cup or two that missed.

I then had access to the part. I disconnected the power from the wall socket, and I closed the valve for the inlet water from under the sink.

I removed the screws holding the Water Valve to the DishWasher case. Then I took a sharpie and marked one side of one of the two power connectors, black-mark to black-mark.

When I went to disconnect the inlet pipe, there was more dripping than I expected, so the valve under the sink was not closing completely. I needed to shut off the water supply to the house for the next stage.

I disconnected the inlet water supply, which continued to drip slightly into a bucket. I then removed the coupler from the old water valve. It was badly clogged and corroded, so I went to a local HW store and found an exact match 3/8" to 3/8" right angle coupler with compression fitting on one end.

BIG TRICK, before installing the new coupler, WRAP the compression fitting threads with teflon tape. You will not be able to wrap it once it is installed. In fact, I needed to uninstall the part once after I discovered this, to wrap the threads smoothly.

Once pre-wrapped, wrap the other threads that screw into the water valve. Tighten until secure, AND aligned with the direction of the flow tubes of the original.

Match the electrical connectors, black-mark to the same position as before. (The new water valve will NOT have the black-mark on it, unless you transfer one!)

Connect the Water valve back to the Dish Washer chassis with the two screws previously removed.

Connect the inlet water back to the compression fitting with the pre-wrapped threads.

Gently return the dishwasher to upright, and then plug it in.

Open the valve under the sink slowly and watch for drips or leaks.

Run the dishwasher at the start of a cycle, long enough to determine that the valve activates, and allows water to flow. Then stop the cycle.

Gently walk the dishwasher back under the counter, observing that you do not kink the copper water inlet pipe, or the drain pipe.

Adjust the feet, if necessary, back to fully support and level the dishwasher.

Install the two screws holding the dishwasher to the cabinet front. Then install the kick plates and tighten those 4 screws.

Clean up any residual water from the process.

Leaking at bottom of door

  • Customer: E L from Seeley Lake MT
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

Leaking on right fromt of the door.

  • Customer: Gary from Longville MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
removed the door gasket by just pulling it out and pushing the new one in its place. very easy, took five minutes at most. Then removed the 7 screws holding the inside of the door in place, removed the dispenser assembly, held by two drive screws and replaced the dispenser door latch grommet. Finally, removed the insulation foam gasket. Had to scrape the old adhesive from the door as the old a\gasket had disintegrated. This took the most time. Then just pressed the new foam gasket in place. Reading the comments from others was a big help. Don't think I would have replaced the dispenser grommet had I not been warned about it. I'm sure it was part of the problem. All is well now, no leaks.

Door was leaking badly

  • Customer: Aimee from Mount Pleasant MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
After performing some maintenance to get the water flowing properly through the system (that's another story) the door was leaking very badly during any test run of the dishwasher.

We thought it was the gasket because the old one was calcified and dried out from years of harder water.

We ordered the new one and in minutes after receiving the new gasket we had a firm seal and our dishwasher was back in action.

Door switches were worn. Diswasher would not operate unless extreme pressure was applied to the door.

  • Customer: James from Rochester NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 21 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled the interior of the door until I was able to get to the switches on the door latch. I determined at least one switch was completely worn while the other worked minimally. I then looked for the latch assembly and found out that it was no longer available. So I did some searching and found the exact switches I needed from PartSelect. The switches came in about 3 days which then I installed them. The dishwasher powered right up and stayed on. So in the end it was much cheaper to repair this unit than buy a new one right now. Plus, my wife is happy and so am I. Thanks PartSelect for carrying the parts I needed.

Bad switch that appeared to be worse than it appeared

  • Customer: Stuart from White Hall AR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
1. Turned power to the unit off.
2. Used a star bit to remove the 7 screws holding the door panel in place.
3. Handed each to my 2 year-old grand daughter.
4. Removed a 1" switch metal retaining plate and a black plastic cover. Removed one screw holding the switch in place.
5. Gently lifted out the old switch and compared it to the replacement switch.
6. Inserted the two black connectors into the new switch.
7. Removed each of the four wires connected to the old switch and connected each, in-turn, to the new switch. Removed the exterior black handle from the old switch and snapped it into place on the new switch.
8. Put the switch into place, reinstalled the black plastic housing cover and long 1" metal switch retaining panel.
9. Set the door cover in place and let the 2 year-old screw in the 7 retaining screws.
10. Don't have to listen to the wife complain about the dishwasher anymore.

Dishwasher leaking below door

  • Customer: Donald from Pittsford NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
This ended up to be a (2) phase project. The first repair was to replace the door seal and inner door foam. Thanks to earlier online comments this part was really easy, but we still had a small leak. When I had removed the interior face of the door panel to replace the inner door foam, I had noticed the insulation was wet and deducted that the 'soap cup door latch gasket' was the real culprit so I had to place a second order (Phase 2). The order came quickly and in time for next Saturdays to to list. My advice is to replace all 4 items at the same time and save on mailing cost and repair time; reservoir O-ring, soap cup door latch gasket, inner foam gasket and door gasket. net repair time, about an hour start to finish.
Don and Rosie
Rochester, NY

float leaking

  • Customer: phillip from hodges AL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 19 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
float was missing palnut and letting the float slide up too much causing small leak around the float

Dishes Weren't Getting Clean

  • Customer: Allen from Columbia SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I surfed the net using phrases like "dishes not clean" and found a series of possible solutions. When I noticed that the water in the washer was cold, I realized it was a heating element issue. Using a multi-meter set to the lowest resistance I tested both ends of the heating element (OF COURSE I SHUT OFF ELECTRICITY TO THE DISHWASHER FIRST!!!) and found it read a steady 16 ohms. Then I followed the orange leads to the limiter, removed the leads and tested resistance and found it at near zero. Touchdown.

I ordered the new limiter, had it in a couple of days and installed in in 5 minutes. The hardest part was putting the metal cover back on the bottom of the unit.t

Not enough water pressure to wash soap out of dispenser

  • Customer: Duane from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Our first effort was to replace the lower washer arm that had splits in the sides of this plastic part. While this increased the water pressure in the wash cycle some it was not enough to adequately wash the dishes. We read that someone else had to clean out the filter which was below the lower washer arm assembly. Thus, we took off the loweer arm assembly by screwing off the hold down assembly in the middle of the arm. We then took off the pump cover by removing the 6 screws that hold it in place with a #3 metric allen wrench. When we took of the cover we could see that the pump filter was so covered with deposits that it was not letting the water through to the pump. Rather than spend hours trying to clean the filter and pump cover we decided it was easier to repalce them. Thus, we ordered the parts and replaced them. The dishwaster is now working fine. We appreciated the information that others had shared that helped us find and fix the problem.

Dispenser lid would not open

  • Customer: Douglas from Pottstown PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
The wax motor seemed to work.
At first I thought something was broken and I tried to figure out the "theory of operation" Working the actuator of the wax motor, I COULD NOT GE THE LATCH TO MOVE THE WAY I THOUGHT IT SHOULD. I ASSUMED EITHER IT WAS BROKEN IN SOME WAY I COULD NOT DETECT OR THERE WAS A FLAW IN ITS DESIGN!

It took a long time to figure out the latch would not be worked open unless it was actually holding the lid- this positions the latch at "half mast" and allows the mechanism to "pick it up from there" and open the rest of the way. So once I figured that out, I concluded the failure was really just worn out parts that were out of tolerance for how this "half mast" position and opening was supposed to work. So I ordered all fresh pieces just to be sure, assembled it (very easy) and put it in (easy). It all works fine now.
All Instructions for the MDB7100AWB
31-45 of 850