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PartSelect Number PS11747672
This float assembly is all white in color and is made of plastic. Water that fills your dishwasher lifts this float, and when it reaches a certain level, it shuts off the flow of water into the dishwasher.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed the two plates located below the dishwasher door to expose the float switch. I removed the two screws holding float switch, I removed screw holding switch actuator, then I removed float assembly.Installed new float assembly, but could not use the float palnut, it had too small of a hole, I substituted a larger one that fit the float better. Note I fitted the palnut to the float (the nut cuts it's own threads in the float) before installing the float. This made installation easier. Next I transferred the two wires from the old float switch to the new float switch in the same positions as the existing switch wires. Then I installed the float switch. Finally, I cleaned up the float switch actuator and screw so that the actuator moves freely on the screw. I then installed the float switch actuator and ran the dishwasher to check for proper operation. Note: this float and switch control the water level in the dishwasher. If the actuator sticks, the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the float has collected dirt inside, it will weigh more and the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the switch sticks or fails the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. That is why I relaced the parts: float and switch. I don't want to go back and work on this again.Lastly, after a few days of proper operation, I installed the two plates located below the dishwasher door. Job done!
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float was missing palnut and letting the float slide up too much causing small leak around the float
Make sure dishwasher is powered off. Remove all inner door panel screws. Lift inner door panel upward and lean against the tub. Use a putty knife or spatula to lift old lower foam seal. Make sure door seal area is clean. Start at one end, butt new foam against the side of door and slowly pull glue strip backing while pressing foam down from left to right. Reverse door assembly. Make sure dishwasher if off and door unlatched. Remove lower kick panel 4 screws and remove 1 screw securing float switch arm. Hold float stem with pliers and remove bottom stem nut. Remove float and re-install the new float with reverse procedure listed. Super fast shipping on items!! Great service.
Took off the float, the jam nut was hard to get off, we ended up breaking the bottom piece of the float to get it off, but that was okay because we had a new float. The new float went on real easy and the jam nut went back on real easy. The foam insulation strip was real easy to get off we got a good hold of one end and striped it off slowly so there was nothing left on the door, then we cleaned the surface and put on the new insulation strip. We ran dishwasher to test it and there was no leak. Awesome. Cheap and easy to repair. We were impressed.
Remove the Palnut Screw from bottom of Float assembly using pliers, Remove Pivot pin from Actuator lever w/ screw driver. Replace the Float , install new palnut Screw and re-install pivot pin on actuator lever.That's it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Simply remove the washer nut,then pull the float assembly. As far the lever,just unscrew the screw and replace the actuator lever. What was great about everything I was able to go to the presented diagram. This allowed me to find the exact parts I needed. Of course make sure you have the model number.
First I turned off the refrigerator and allowed it to defrost. I had to use a blow dryer to save time since it iced up so bad. Removed all the racks, ice maker, and back panel in the freezer. Found the bimetal defrost thermostat, cut it loose from wiring harness and attached new one by matching the wires and reconnecting with two butt connectors. I then ran the hot blow dryer on the drain in the rear until the ice melted and it was open again since it was frozen up causing the water in the bottom of the refrigerator. Reassembled freezer compartment. Then I replaced the defrost timer by removing two screws, lowering the refridgerator control box. Removed old timer and installed the new one. I broke both studs used to hold it tight trying to pry them off but there was enough left to drop the timer in place without fasteners, you can not easily use the screws provided due to the location of the timer. Reconnected the wires as shown in the installion instruction and the wiring schematic found in the control box. Reassembled the control box and plugged in refrigerator. Waited about 15 minutes for it to recycle and problem was solved. Inially I thought something was wrong because it did not come on instantly but after 15-20 minutes it cut on and got cold. I replaced both components that typically cause the problem but you can determine exactly which one or both using an ohm meter. I did the entire job myself for just parts which is less than $75. 00 For a service call. Thanks, you folks are the greatest.
first i unhooked the 2 hoses then removed the 2 screws holding the valve in place, I then removed the hose fitting from the old unit and installed it on the new one. I then bolted on the new valve and reconnected the hoses and it worked fine.
I went to take the bottom front panel off and ended up dropping the screw down behind the baseboard and then found that I did not need to take the panel off. The broken end of the float was not obstructing and I was able to just drop the new float in place. I spent more time looking for a replacement screw than any thing else. Ran it and it works fine.
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