2097730-1-S-Whirlpool-912313-Lower Spray Arm Seal
2097730-1-S-Whirlpool-912313-Lower Spray Arm Seal http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/53879.gif

Lower Spray Arm Seal

PartSelect Number PS2097730

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Not cleaning dishes properly.
  • Noisy.
  • Leaking.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.3 / 5.0, 14 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 14

92 of 153 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: William from Tucumseh, MO

Motor noise over a six month period suddenly stop running.

Removed washer from the cabinet by unscrewing anchor screws at the top of washer. But first I removed both dish racks. Shut off power and water to washer. Unhooked water line to washer. Lowered front adjustable feet so I could easily pull washer free from the cabinet. Disconnected wiring from the wall box to allow room to allow for more working room. Drain hose was plenty long on my washer so didn't have to disconnect. Before laying on side, I disconnected the lower and upper spray units. Lower spinner is attached with a hand tightened screw in the middle of spayer. This is a left hand thred. So I had to turn it to the right to loosen. The upper spray unit is simply removed by uncliping the clips from the long flat tube that runs from the lower unit to the top. There is a set of clips in the back of the tub and a set on top. After the clips are free, turn the flat tube to your right to unlock from the bottom spinning unit. Remove and lay the washer on its side. Also before I did that I unhooked the springs at the bottow of the door so to free the door from springing back up after opening the door while on side. Good idea too to have some towels handy to absorb spilled water from the washer. I used one under the open door while on side to protect the door and floor. There are three wire disconnects under the washer that hooks to the motor, etc. There are three vinal wedges that secure the motor and punp into the bottom of the tub. Remove them, disconnect the outer pump from the motor (made it easier for me to remove the unit through the hole in the bottom of the tub. This is a little tricky. Disconnect by turning the small pump to the end of the motor to your left to unlock. The small pump is a little stubborn to losen, but will break loose with presure persistence. After removing, simply push the whole unit up through the bottom of the tub to remove. Now you are ready to reinstall everything in reverse order. It is a good idea to have someone to assist with installing the motor and punp in the tub. I securely pressed it into the hole and the second person press the vinal wedges back into the bottom of the tub to secure the unit. Putting it all back together from there was a snap.
A big plus is the quick delivery. Regular delivery 3 - 5 days will do. I ordered my parts one day and received them the next by Fedx. Didn't even pay the extra for next day delivery. Everything worked perfectly. Just like a new one again. Very happy with the helps posted and service and parts provided by PartSelect.

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60 of 69 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Stephen from Sante Fe, NM

Grinding noise during wash and rinse

First off, I must give thanks to Partselect.com for excellent service. They had the parts I needed, a Diagram of how the parts should go into the Dishwasher, and shipping was very quick and reasonable priced. Thank you Partselect.com.

After dinner we heard our Maytag MDB5100AWW dishwasher start grinding during its wash cycle. Needless to say we found this quite concerning, as this is not what a healthy dishwasher should sound like. After fiddling around with it, I started researching the issue and found Partselect.com where it was stated the “Discharge Housing Assembly (Discharge Pump Housing)” was a common failure point. After disassembling the “Pump and Motor” section of the dishwasher, it was confirmed that the Discharge Housing was indeed broken. Since this Dishwasher is over 8 years old, I figured that I might as well replace a few other parts as well, since I'm in there working on it.

Following the blow-up image of the Pump and Motor picture;

Unscrew part 34

Pull out part 1

Lift Part 2, which is attached to part 36

Unscrew part 5 (6 of them) from part 4, be careful not to loose part 3, sitting inside part 4

Lift out part 6 and 7

Unscrew part 8 and lift out part 9

Unscrew part 27 (three of them) and lift out part 11

The bottom plate of this part is the broken part.

Now, since we are in here replacing a part, we might as well replace a few other parts and give this dishwasher a little longer life. I opted to replace the following parts as well, being that my dishwasher was over 8 years old and the gaskets were showing some age.

Part 4 – Pump Cover and Secondary Filter Assembly; I replaced this part because food often gets caught inside the filters and will throw off the balance during a wash or rinse, thus putting premature wear on bearings and o-rings. My filter had a bunch of food on one side, and the only way to remove the food was to slit open a section of the filter, thus damaging the filter screen.

Part 37 – O-Ring that goes inside the Pump Cover and Secondary Filter Assembly. O-rings are rubber and do wear with age. My dishwasher didn't even have this o-ring; now it does.

Part 3 – Lower Spray Arm Seal; I noticed when pulling these parts out that the hard water in our living area was making these somewhat brittle. When ordering these, get two of them, as the picture indicates. If you order one, the package only contains one, and not two was the image shows it should have.

Part 11 – Discharge Housing Assembly (Discharge Pump Housing). This is the part that is making all the grinding noise. The new part will show that it is built a little differently. It appears that Maytag figured out the weak design of this part and made the replacements stronger.

Part 17 – Even though I ordered this, you don't need to order this part if you order the Part 10 kit. The part 10 kit will include this o-ring. Because its an O-ring, I replaced it; as stated above, o-rings do breakdown.

Part 25 – Pump Gasket; This part should really be called the Pump Housing Gasket, as it isolates the Pump Housing bucket and the Dishwasher tub. I bought this because my original gasket was looking pretty nasty and was coming apart.

Part 10 – Seal Kit (Motor/Pump) (Motor/Pump Impeller and Seal Assembly), this kit includes several components that if purchased separately would easily be twice the cost of this kit. Again, seals and Motor Pump seals are a good thing to replace when needing to do work inside the dishwasher.

Continuing on from the previous dis-assembly list;

Unscrew part 12 and remove part 14, 15 and 16.

Unroll part 17 (o-ring) and remove part 18.

Unscrew parts 19 and carefully remove part 20, being VERY careful to not loose part 39.

Lift out part 22, which will include the bearing inside of part 22.

Pry out part 24 with a pick (the replacement is in the kit of part 10).

To remove part 25, you must Remove part 12 of the Door Assembly (see the Door image) to reach the motor element.

Next unscrew part 14 of the “TUB” i

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28 of 32 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Larry from Bellefonte, PA

Dishwasher began making a grinding noise that sounded like someone being tortured

Figure out how to remove the spray arm (15 min); remove all the parts below (15 min); figure out what's not right (5 min). the pump discharge head is two parts. The flat disk that is attached to the under side of the discharge head came off and was being ground up by the impeller nut. Hence the noise. I superglued it back together and ordered the replacement parts. the superglue lasted through about 1 rinse cycle. The repair parts arrived the following day, and since I already knew how to disassemble and reassemble, the actual replacement was about 15 minutes. The dishwasher hasn't been this quiet in over 2 years.

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13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: William from Beaverton, OR

Dishwasher had weak drainingf pressure, turned out to be the drain impeller.

After I ruled out a hose blockage I looked in the washer.

Took the washer assembly apart, pretty straight forward, used the parts diagrams on this site for help. Found the drain impellor was jammed with glass and had lost a lot of its fins.

Found exactly what I needed here. Had it back together in less than an hour, and it seems to be working like new.

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10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Nidhal from Hillsborough, NC

Noise after water disharge.

Using the part list (on your web site)as a guide to remove the parts,Part 32 remove by hand turning counter clockwise,remove screws #5,remove parts(33,34,31,2).
Remove #36 remove 4,3,,6,7,,8,9,remove screws#27 then remove #11 which has a plate part of it but broke on the underside (you can't see it in the picture)it will rub on the fins of part#14 during the cycle when dishes are being washed creating a grinding noise.
i Do suggest to replace the seals,38,37,you may coat the new seals with liquid hand soap for easier installation.

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