Models > LGA30AW > Instructions

LGA30AW (PLGA30AW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LGA30AW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LGA30AW
76-90 of 579
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Dryer would only heat at start up for one cycle

  • Customer: Rob from Henderson NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!

Noisy and not drying the clothes

  • Customer: Pietro from Fairfax VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
This was my first time repairing a dryer. If I knew when I started the project what I know now, it would have been an easy repair. First, you should know that the series number (used for selecting a wiring diagram) is the last two digits of the unit's serial number (not model number). In my case, the series number was 11. The hardest part for me was figuring out how to take the dryer apart. I made the mistake of starting with the top instead of the front. In fact, I removed the control panel and disconnected all the wires, labeling them carefully, and creating a diagram, so i could put it all back together later. I now realize I could have left that all together and just lifted the top up in the front without removing it. That knowledge would have saved hours of work, so I hope it helps someone (prop up the front a few inches and start by removing the panel on the lower front, then remove the screws on the main front panel, and then pull out the bottom of that panel toward you until the top of that front panel disengages from the top of the dryer - the rest is obvious). So it turns out there were two separate problems: 1) the blower wheel had broken completely off of the motor so it wasn't spinning - this is why hot air wasn't being pulled through from the heater in the back of the dryer; 2) the pulley on the spring-loaded lever arm attached to the motor was squeaking due to lack of lubricant. So the solution was to replace the blower wheel and spray WD-40 in the pulley (and also, for good measure in the roller bearings that support the drum in the back of the dryer). Most of the time spent on the repair was just due to my own mistakes. In particular, once I got everything back together after the repair, it stopped squeaking and there was good airflow, but it wasn't heating. I spent an entire day trying to troubleshoot the lack of heat. I tested and bypassed all of the thermostats and heater fuses and the heating element still wouldn't come on. I even managed to accidentally ground one of the leads from the fuse and had to replace a melted wire connector (trip to the Shack). In the end, it turned out that a wire which had been accidentally disconnected from the main power cord to the dryer, I had put back in the wrong spot. There is L1, L2, and neutral going into the dryer. I had the heater on the same circuit as the motor and other stuff. Once I traced the wiring diagram back, I realized this and corrected it by putting the heating circuit back onto L2. Now it "hums like a Singer". If everything had gone smoothly, instead of being a 2-day repair, it would have been a 2 hour repair. 2 hours instead of 1 because to get the leverage I needed to remove the old blower nut, I had to actually pull the motor assembly out of the dryer and move it to my workbench. Someone who is strong or more limber or has better tools might be able to skip that step, reducing the time by about 45 minutes. Good luck!

Door not remaining closed

  • Customer: Cheryl from LAS VEGAS NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I watched your videos - they're great! The strike was installed in less than a minute and voila - the dryer was as good as new!

Dryer shut down before clothes were dry

  • Customer: Donald from Madison WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
... I figured it was some over temp switch but then read about the gas solenoid problems others were having... bought $100.00 worth of parts... saved the old just in case down the road I might need them... figured a service call would cost me that much... now lots of new parts... and a working dryer. Done!

Inner diamiter of roller support worn larger than pin

  • Customer: Stephen from Franklin WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. Remove bottom sill plate with two screws
2. Remove door, watch for the wire.
3. Remove tub retaining "ring" 4 screws
4. Pull tub forward
5. Pull off the old support roller using the snapring pliers
6. grease the new roller and pins (do both sides)

Reverse it and put it back together and its good as new!

dryer would shut off during dry cycle. It was difficult to rotate drum manually

  • Customer: Dave from Bend OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I looked at your on-line diagrams (exploded views) and basically used them as dis-assembly info.

I removed the bottom panel, followed by the front panel, the drum holders and drum.

Toughest part was the spring clips holding the motor in place,,,, but notes on your site from other folks doing the same motor replacement solved that one,,,,,, I used a flat bladed screwdriver and pliers to manipulate the clips both off and on

Dryer making a loud squeaky noise.

  • Customer: David from New Albany IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Easy repair and done all from the front. Turn off the power at the breaker. Make sure the power is off. Remove 2 screws holding on the lower panel. Then remove 2 screws holding on the door panel. (Pay notice to the order in which the 3 door wires will get re-connected. The 2 light bulb wires probably can go either way.) Then remove 4 screws to a large bracket that supports the front of the drum. (Set these parts aside as you take out the screws.) Then remove the 2 screws from the top panel. Reach in under the drum and release the tension off the belt. It's easy to release, but sorta mind boggling to put back on. Maybe practice that once while it's fresh in your mind. When the belt is off the motor pulley, then lift out the drum. Vaccuum out a lint blanket if you have one. You'll see the 2 drum support rollers and the belt tensioner roller. I didn't know which was squeaking so I replaced all 3. Same method, use ring pliers to take off the retainer ring, remove old, wipe off dust, install new rollers, replace ring. Note the washers are different so put them back on in the same order as removed. Make sure the gasket on the lint assembly gets tucked nicely into the blower housing when you reassemble. Easy repair. If you do pull the dryer away from the wall, replace your flexible exhaust vent with the fire resistant aluminum version.

dryer kept shutting off motor bearings where failing causing the motor to labor too much and the machine would shut down.

  • Customer: Michael A. from Wolcott CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer, then I removed the bottom front panel. Then the door I marked the wires to the shut off switch on the door and removed the switch from the door. Next was the lint screen housing and duct work that goes to it. Then I had to reach under the drum and take the belt off of the motor pully and tensioner so I could remove the drum. I removed the drum. I then marked all the wires I had to disconnect. I took the fan housing front panel off. I held the belt drive end of the motor shaft with the pipe wrench, i could have used an open end or an adjustable wrench also. I used a 7/8 six sided socket on the plastic fan nut on the front of the shaft so that if it was hard to loosen I would have a better chance of not rounding the nut. I removed the fan and the back of the housing, unplugged the motor, and removed it. The clips that hold the motor to the motor bracket are a little tricky, I used a screw driver to remove them. I then replaced the motor and put everything back together. One hint you should know is to make sure you mark the drum front so when you put it back in you get it right the first time. I fits in both ways and will go back together but it won't turn free and you'll have to take it all apart again. I tried it by hand both ways and was able to catch the mistake before I put it all back together, but I could have put it together wrong.

NO HEAT

  • Customer: NICHOLAS from PARMA OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I SUSPECTED A FAULTY IGNITER AND DISCONNECTED THE CABLE TO THE IGNITER AND MEASURED THE RESISTANCE OF THE IGNITER AND FOUND IT TO BE 70 OHMS THEN I CHECKED THE VOLTAGE AT THE SAME CABLE TOWARDS THE POWER SOURCE AND FOUND IT TO BE 25 VOLTS AC WHICH SHOULD BE 120 VOLTS AC. NEXT I CHECKED THE RADIANT FLAME SENSOR AND FOUND IT TO BE OPEN (IT SHOULD BE A CLOSED CIRCUIT WHEN COLD). I REMOVED THE FLAME SENSOR (WITH THE POWER OFF) USING A SMALL BOX WRENCH AND FOUND A BROKEN LEAD. REPLACING THE FLAME SENSOR SOLVED THE PROBLEM.

Progressively louder squeaky noise when drying

  • Customer: George W from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instructions found on this site. The hardest part was figuring out how to release the clamps at the front of the dryer so I could remove the top.

The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the front.

The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.

The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.

dryer stoped working

  • Customer: Roman from Gaithersburg MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
At first i thought i had to buy new dryer, because i did not know what to do.I said, i never done this kind of repair before, well i put everything apart and notice that the idler pulley was worn out, then i said this is something that i can fix it if i get the part. I made several calls and couldn't find it. so went in internet and found it with you.

My heater would not HEAT!

  • Customer: Michell from Inglewood CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I asked the Gas Co. if they can come out and relight the pilot to my dryer... (which is common for gas dryers) He tested the equipment and told me that the thermostat was the problem. Most places was looking for around $160 for parts and labor. Well, I saved around 130, as I just simply replaced the thermostat. DONE DEAL!

the glow ignitor would not cycle on

  • Customer: Georgio from Oradell NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

Dryer not Drying

  • Customer: Manuel from Jurupa Valley CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.

No Heat sometimes, But for a moment then None

  • Customer: Scott from Sacramento CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.
All Instructions for the LGA30AW
76-90 of 579