LA7500S Maytag Washer - Instructions

I went to a major appliance part outlet in my area...they told me that they didn't make the parts in the USA anymore. I found your website, ordered the parts, installed them in less than 15 minutes and now the washer works great. I would recommend your website to anyone... thank you

I removed 2 screws holding the front of the cabinet and set the front panel aside. Next I removed the screw securing the relay and water level switch to the front of the cabinet, and removed 4 screws holding the top of the washer to the cabinet. I removed the hose, then removed the 4 screws securing the siphon break to the rear panel and pulled it inside the cabinet. I removed the elbow and gasket, installed the new elbow and gasket, and reassembled all parts previously removed. I reconnected the hose and fastened it to the drain, and I was back in business. It took about 35 minutes.

This was an easy repair.
1st I removed both water hoses
2nd I removed 1 hex head screw that released a backing plate & removed the plate holding the water inlet valve.
3rd I pulled the 4 electrical connections & loosened a clamp to remove a small water hose.
4th I removed 2 hex head screws that held the water valve to the backing plate.
-----------that was a whole 5 - 10 minutes!------------
Next I reversed the process
4th I attached the inlet valve with the 2 hex head screws
5th re-attached the 4 electrical connections(had slip on spades) pushed on the hose & tighterned the clamp.
6th replaced the backing plate with the inlet valve attached & tightened the single hex head screw.
7th re-attached the hot & cold lines................................DONE
15 minutes tops

Thirty year old Maytag washer. Remove two screws at bottom of front panel with Philips screw driver. Hinge panel up to disconnect front panel from top of machine. Tilt washer back against wall to gain access to pulley at underside of washer. Then remove Philips head screw from bottom of center shaft. Remove bevel washer with screw. Remove stop block from end of center shaft and wind the pulley off center shaft. Clean center shaft of any debris and lightly coat with grease. Install belt on new pulley and motor, wind new pulley on center shaft. Replace stop block, washer, screw, and front cover.

I first removed the 2 screws at the bottom of the front panel. The front panel then pulls up and off. I then removed 2 hex head screws with a small socket, which kept the top attached to the two side panels. I then lifted the top and kept it propped up. I removed the internal drain hose from the siphon break on the inside of the back panel. I removed the 4 screws on the back panel that keeps the siphon break in place. I removed it and screwed in the new one. I re-attached the drain hose to the new part. I partially filled the tub and watched it drain with the lid still upright. No more leaks. The rubber seal in the siphon break had rotted.

Of couse, turn off water to machine. Remove hoses. Then had to open unit - easiest by popping spring in with flat blade in seam under lid. Screws holding valve are on back of unit at hose inlet, so simply unscrew to remove failed valve. Clamp holding hose onto valve is crimped with pliers to remove. I suggest spending the 50 cents a hardware store for new clamp, as my reattachment of existing clamp onto new value leaked. There are four electrical connectors, so remember order in which you removed them and return to same on new unit.
Reassemble in reverse (hoses, water on) and your all set.
Pretty easy: I figure it would be about $200 for service guy and part. My cost: $30 and 30 minutes

I initially could not figure out how to open the machine so I checked the internet for a repair manual. After getting it open I found the source of the problem. The siphon break was missing the diaphragm and was spitting water when the tub was draining. I did not know what a siphon break was or did. I am non mechanically inclined. So I sealed the top of the siphon break with a sandwich bag and a zip tie, put in a load and went to work. I now know what the siphon break does after it ran all day filling and draining for over 8 hrs. That is when I found this site, ordered the part and received it the next day as promised. It took about 10 minutes to put the part in and close the washer back up. It has been a week now and the garage is almost dry . HA , and my wife wanted a new washer ! This part and delivery was under $25. A new machine around $800 if I am lucky. The ability for me to be smug as long as she never finds out about the sandwich bag incident, PRICELESS !

-determined problem
--verify that hose not clogged, screen filters clean then swapped cold w/ hot and verified that the problem was in the hot valve.
-Moved washer to get access to hot/cold valves
--opened access panel holding valve and swapped wires between hot/cold to verify that hot did not activate when it should
--Used voltohmmeter to verify that hot water valve had open circuit.
--Obtained replacement valve, installed, reconnected water lines and verified that hot and cold water worked.

took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done

Easy video on Parts Select, then it still wouldn't work. The fuse behind the panel was blown, replaced that. And it was hero dad, I expect the bad water inlet valve blew the fuse.
Good Job, thanks for being there.

The repair was very simple.
1. Shut off water and disconnected the water lines.
2. Removed screws holding water valve bracket to wash machine.
3. Disconnected electrical connections and water fill hose.
Installation was reverse of removal. The directions said to use a small piece of rubber hose that was included in the package, but it was not necessary. Double check for water leaks before finishing installation.

The water valve on the cold side was making noise when cold water ran. I removed the screens but did not see a problem. I ordered a new valve and installed. The noise is gone and the water flow is back to normal.

At the time we did not realize the water flow had slowed.

It should have been extremely easy, but it was a little difficult because my laundry room is very small and I had extremely limited space to work in and also had limited lighting. However, after taking many minutes to strategically plan how to maneuver in the tiny space, I was able to loosen the giant clamp on the hose inside the washer and attach the new hose! It worked like a charm! My 25 year old Maytag is working again! The part came in a bag certified as a genuine Whirlpool part and looked exactly like the old one! No complaints! The online installation videos are wonderful!

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

Tried the water level control first. didn't fix it.
Then replaced the air tube for tub fill volume.

The thing here is that it didn't have a hole in it nor was it blocked where you couldn't blow through it.
The prolbem was that at the tub end it has a larger diameter and that was nearly filled with softener residue so it changed the air volume.
That reduced air volume caused the air pressure to be wrong to the water level sensor.
My most useful tool was a magnet mount flashligt inside the cabinet so I could see to get the hose back on.