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Replace X-Large Burner Head with Electrode
Disassembly: Removed 2 screws with nutdriver. Pulled off electrode connection. Screws were rusted and needed replacement.
Assembly: Slipped on electrode attachment. Went to local hardware store and bought 5/8" 8/18 pan head screws. Used screwdriver to screw down burner head. The 3/8" inch screws on the tech sheet do not work. Too short and flange is too wide to fit in opening in burner head.
This is the 3rd burner head that was replaced . everyone had the screws break off , & had to be drilled out & re tapped .I would not purchase the replacement screws @$4.00 each . They were just plain sheet metal screws that were steel . Better going to a home center & purchasing brass or stainless machine screws at a 1/4 of the cost .If you are not familiar with drilling out broken screws ,then this is not the repair for you .
the spark igniters would continue to spark after the burners were lit
Since the problem would only occur when the right front burner was on, I first replaced the ignitor, but the problem persisted. To replace the spark module I had to pull the range out of the nook it is in in the counter top. Then (after ensuring that the power was off) I removed the back cover. The spark module was easily located and removing two screws and disconnecting a few wires liberated it. The new one went in easily since it is the same part number and an exact match. Put the back on and check that the problem was solved. Done!
You Tube!!! Didn’t find my exact oven, but watching a couple of videos was extremely helpful. Replacing the igniter was basically simple, but since it was a first for me, I took my time. Probably saved $200. The part was just over $100.
The ceramic on the electrode broke due to water over boiling the week of Thanksgiving. When i tried to loosen the screw to replace the electrode it broke off inside the threads. Ordered whole new unit overnight. Back in business in five minutes. Thanksgiving was back on!! Thanks!
Door gasket was hard and brittle from baked-on grease - heat leaking around door
Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.
Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.
One burner would continually keep sparking after burner ignited
Removed the small access cover on the bottom of the cooktop by reaching inside and under the cabinets. Removed the module which was held by two hex head screws, unplugged the wires noting the location and color of the wires. Plugged the wires into the new module in the proper locations as noted previously. Attached the module with two screws, and then attached the cover/access plate with two screws. Problem resolved, repair was easy.
door seal contaminated by a boil-over, not flexible
From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.
Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.
Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.
Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.
Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.
Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)
reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.
Six burner gas cooktop, two units not lighting properly
It was very simple two Phillips head screws to remove the burner and one screw to remove the ignitor. It was probably less than a 5 minute job per burner. Unfortunately one burner had a very rusty screw holding the ignitor and the head stripped out. I tried a stripped screw removal tool with no success so I used a drill press to drill the screw out. It still took less than 30 minutes. Now both burners work like new
