Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked
Refrigerator would cool for a very short period of time. Then the compressor would shutdown via internal thermal overload or high head pressure. This was caused by the lack of airflow across the condenser coils and compressor.
(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed
This kind of repair makes me love the internet. Thank you. Follow advice of my fellow posters but beware, all your plastic parts are very brittle from the cold. Proceed slowly. As mentioned by others but worth stressing is...do resist the temptation to force any piece...I could just see myself snapping one of these pieces and having to order another part! Take your time to work out the sequence to disengage each piece in turn. It's a bit of a puzzle but take your time. Also suggest starting the job with a nice bowl of warm baking-soda water to gently and effectively clean everything as you go.
Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.
Part of our Mullion Rail broke and needed to be replaced
The part arrived as expected. I detached the existing mullion rail using a socket wrench and disconnected the wires, which was as easy as pulling two pieces apart. Then I connected the wires to the new rail, slid the part into place and used the socket wrench to secure it. As easy as could be and good as new! In total, it took a matter of minutes.
1. Remove all drawers {3}, shelves {glass 1}, shelf support {1}. 2. Remove two {2} screws from End Cap. 3. Carefully remove End Cap and drawer temperature control part on the back wall keeping them aligned as installed. The part on the back wall swings out so that the tab on the left end of the piece may be withdrawn from the securing slot (hole). The two parts should be carefully removed while keeping the two parts at a right angle the way they are installed. The reason for this caution follows. 4. On the back side of both parts are plastic pieces that, I believe, can be easily broken if you are not aware. The pieces are connected together at the right angle. They are the control arms for the temperature control -- on right side End Cap only -- the left side doesn't have them or the rear part on the back wall. 5. The pieces must be disconnected and removed. You must examine and ponder how they are held in place and hooked together in order to disconnect and remove them without damaging them. The same advice is applicable to reinstalling the pieces in the new part -- End Cap. 6. After reassembled and keeping the two parts at a right angle, insert the tab on the left end of the back wall part into the slot (hole) and swing the two parts back into position. 7. Replace the screws. 8. Done, reinstall the shelf, shelf support, and the drawers. NOTE: I ordered the two screws but they were not needed.
Control noisy when opening and closing removed damper housing
Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.
A jar was dropped on the chef's pantry lid and cracked the lid. I unhinged one side of the lid from the pantry drawer by gently pushing outward on one of the hinge pins. The lid slid out easily. I then reversed the process using the new lid and it went in smoothly. Be sure to align the lid so it rests on the shoulder of the pantry drawer. Simple task, no tools, and less than 5 minutes effort. The replacement part was perfect.
Plastic clip broke holding lid for pantry compartment
Unscrewed all related parts and also took out drawers and glass shelf. Reused plastic slider which raps around right corner to the back wall of the unit. Make sure to remember how this plastic slider fits into the new end cap, it is a little tricky putting it back without cracking it. Suggest take a digital picture as to how it fits together before taking the slider out of the old end cap. Reinstall same way as you took it out. Good time to clean while everything is out of the bottom of the refrigerator.
Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!
Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!
Right side endcap - drawer pin broke that the flip up top uses to pivot up and down
I removed the right side endcap and rear thermostat piece behind the pull out drawer. It was fairly quick, 3 screws on the exterior of the end cap and one screw holding in the drawer thermostat. The worst part was getting the thermostat control that connects the drawer thermostat control to the rear thermostat. After playing with the control rod I was able to to snap it in successfully to the endcap with the proper rod connection. The rear thermostat goes in first, then the endcap. Quick and easy. For $23 it would have cost over $150 to call a repair guy ($120 call charge plus parts). Thanks.
I brought you the exploded view of the crisper parts on your website and proceeded accordingly. Besides the three nuts holding the end cap to the frig interior wall the temperature adjustment linkage had to be disassembled on reassemblied on the new replacement end cap. Plastic linkage parts present the problem of breakage, so one must be careful during the disassembly process. Some other type of fasteners for the linkage assembly (screw and nut, ball and socket) would be prefereable. All and all, its a machine. Wtith exploded view, what could go wrong?
Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.
