GW397LXUB0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.

Replace the igniter. Removed 2 rear screws that secure bottom oven pan. Removed pan. Ignigter is located in center rear by 2 screws. Removed the screws and pulled ignigter out from rear. There us a prong connection that when pressed will release igniter. Don't touch new ignigter without gloves on. Will reduce life. Plugged in new ignigter and secured w 2 screws. Turned on oven to ensure problem was fixed. After 30 seconds, oven ignited. Replaced bottom oven pan. Tadaa!

Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor. Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !

it was actually pretty easy, it took about 20 minutes to fix, i had to unscrew the bottom portion of the oven to get to the Igniter on the bottom, then unscrew the Igniter, take off the old pice, and snap the new one in, put it all back together, and that was about it, i had dinner done by the time my husband got home from work. thanks

Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.

From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

I removed all the screws that would turn with the screw driver, and the two that were near the ignitor that were much harder for to me loosen with the pliers. I then took the back off and unplugged the old ignitor and plugged in the new one. Put everything back together, and wala!, I had a working oven again. Thank you very much Part select. My husband was very proud of me, for accomplishing it on my own, He is an over the road truck driver, and I would of had to wait until he came home on the 24th of December.

took out racks removed 2 screws holding igniter removed 4 screws on back of stove and unplug igniter. reversed the order installing the new one

Shut off gas supply
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years

Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.

So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is like new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.

Put a new one in.