GSC3400J00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

Replaced all ordered parts.

I watched the video and did exactly what he did. I am a novice when it comes to repairs. I learn as I go. This repair went flawlessly. Ordering was quick and easy. The part arrived quickly. The repair took less time than expected. The part was what I needed and nothing else broke or went wrong when repairing the original problem. It was a 100% success.

Removed 4 screws, took off basket covering, put new part in one turn, then replaced covering. Plumber had come out, I watched what he did, he had to order part and come back. I asked how much he didn't know but said cheaper than buying a new dishwasher. When he left I started calling around about the little plastic part that I needed. Part was $15.50. They called and said it would be $110.00. Needless to say I called them out and ordered the part myself and put it in. Took me like 6 minutes and cost $21.69. I was so mad about this situation that I even got my service call money back that I had already paid.

First I removed the four screws that secure the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. Then I removed the four screws from the front cover at the toespace. Next I used an adjustable wrench to turn the feet to lower the unit enough to slide it out of the compartment. I unplugged the dishwasher and turned it on its side in order to access the hose chamber. I used a pliers to loosen the clamps at each end of the hose chamber and removed the the damaged item. Next I slid the ends of the new part into place and used the pliers to reposition the clamps. Finally I returned the dishwasher to an upright position, slid it back into the compartment, adjusted the feet to raise it to the proper height, put the toespace cover back on, secured the top of the unit to the underside of the countertop and I was good to go. No more water leakage.

Old baffles lift out and new ones installed - very easy

removed old drawer-like basket, installed the new duplicate replacement part. Easiest "repair" I've ever done!

Ordered rubber connector and it arrived the next day. Shut off main power and water. Disconnected water supply and pulled unit out from under counter. Flipped unit over on it's side. Disconnected wiring, drain hose, clamps and completely removed motor/pump. Rubber connector would not unscrew by hand so I found a drinking glass slightly smaller in diameter than the connector inner diameter. Inserted glass in connector and proceeded to unscrew connector by turning connector and glass together. After removing old connector I cleaned the mating part after removing it from inside the washer and removed all the build-up. Replaced everything back in same order.

Leaking at bottom of door edge - ordered new gaskets all around - no sense in replacing one at a time and paying extra shipping. Removed screws on the inside of the door panel and it lifted off easily. bottom corner of gasket was black and that is where some of the leaking was from. I replaced the door seal and ran the washer and it still leaked.... Pulled the washer out from the enclosure and it was quite wet back there - so I wanted to pull the washer to dry and clean things up - turned off power and water and remove screws at top edge that secure it to countertop. Insulation wrap was wet - Removed that and put it into the sun to dry - no sign of where water was leaking - reconnected water and power and ran a cycle with the washer pulled out - slowly leaking from top of washer where hose enters the top sprayer. Was easy to get to the sprayer - two little screws hold it in - removed the hose that feeds the sprayer and it was disintegrating - crumbly- I ordered the part and put it all back together and used a washer at the sprayer/hose junction to compress the fitting in hopes it would hold until the replacement came - it did. The replacement installed in 10 mins and did not need to disconect water or power. I would suggest replacing this hose at the same time you replace door seals based on condition of my hose.

Unplugged unit, unscrewed screws on top of dishwasher attached to countertop, undid water supply and drain hose that goes into tee with garbage disposal. Using crescent wrench turned front leveling screws up all the way and slid/rocked dishwasher out from under the counter - I had no problem leaving back leveling screws down. Turned dishwasher over on some towels (it WILL leak some water so spread out some towels!) so it was oriented like the directions that came with pump and motor. The directions were good, although color or a picture might have been more helpful. CHECK the new pump/ motor unit CAREFULLY for any loose debris from packing etc. I had a small piece of plastic that was in the top of the motor that goes in the dishwasher bottom that rattled around after I installed everything and put it back. I was able to get to it from the drain assembly in the tub but it made a heck of a racket at first. All in all, I had a great experience. I'm glad I ordered the pump and motor even though I only thought I needed the drain solenoid because when I took the old unit out, the prop on the old impeller was almost gone. Easy to order, good customer service (I called with a question and talked to a wonderful customer service representative!), good directions and easy to do. I'd say a 4 out of 10 in terms of difficulty. Thanks PartSelect!

Took four screws out, unscrewed the piston & nut assembly by hand installed the new one. Cycled the dishwasher & it worked perfectly.

Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.

I pulled back the spring loaded handle that holds the hoses on the faucet. removed the ceeper ring. This dishwasher has leaked from the day it was purchased. I replaced the 4 jaws, the spring and handle. The inner seal was diffrent than the one in the kit so I cleaned the old one and replaced it.I replaced the faucet adapter. It worked fine. Being on a well the water was hard on the old one.

We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.

The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.

The Solenoid black plastic had melted around the solenoid shaft. I unplugged the solenoid, removed 2 screws,then one C clip and pulled the the unit out. The new solenoid is difficult to install all together as the shaft it goes on holds it all together when both springs are installed - - so I installed in one piece, with the 2 screws, except for the white plastic thing, the C clip that holds it on the shaft, and one of the two springs - - these three items went on separately. I wanted to thank the help your expert gave, but I couldn't figure how to do that.