GSC3400J00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the dishwasher, turned it over, removed 3 hoses, 2 clamps, 2 wires and one support. Installed new pump and reconnected. Done!

Based on information gleaned from the internet, I suspected that the drain solenoid might have melted. I took apart the solenoid assembly and checked it out. I found that some of the plastic on the inside of the solenoid had indeed melted, making it impossible for the plunger that opens and closes the drain valve to move in and out smoothly and completely. I removed the old solenoid, replaced it with the new one, and the dishwasher worked perfectly.

I made this replacement more dificult because I removed the old motor/pump earlier. Should have done it at the time I installed the new unit to be sure all hoses where installed correctly. I hooked the drain hose to the wrong port and when I started the dishwasher I found my error. Once I corrected the problem and started it again - the wash and drain cycles were perfect and there were no leaks.

After determining the drainage issue was caused by the solenoid, (by process of elimination; the hose was clear, drain opening clear, diverter moving freely, power to solenoid present during rinse cycle= bad solenoid. Solenoid showed signs of overheating upon internal inspection...) I transfered the bracket assembly to the new solenoid, re-attached bracket to diverter reservoir, connected spring and power and Did a test run. Solenoid works great! I did notice the shaft on which the diverter pivots leaking just a bit while moving the shaft. You might consider oredering a new gasket for it if you plan to replace the solenoid. Pretty easy repair. Especially considering the complexity of some other possible problems! Good luck!

I popped off the front track stops--pretty easy with a little twisting and slid the basket out. A little leverage with a screw driver and the roller axle slipped off easily. Popped the new ones on, slid the basket back into the track and popped the stops in place and the job was done in under 15 minutes.

First we got all the water out of the bottom of the dishwasher. Removed the old, melted drain solenoid. Very important - DO NOT THROW ANYTHING AWAY. The solenoid that removed was melted; however I had to reuse the springs, brackets and plunger from the old solenoid. I had to scrape and clean (with a solvent) the metal plunger to reuse it. Once I got it cleaned up and re-used the old parts, mounting it was easy. However, getting that tiny lockwasher on the shaft was a real pain in the ass. Finally I got it together and it worked great.

Since the pump and the motor was a single unit, I removed the assembly by disconnecting the electrical plugs and drainage connections. This was a very simple installation. I reversed the above steps, reinstalled the dishwasher and all worked out well.

The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping where the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.

First I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned it onto it's side so I had access to the motor and pump underneath. I determined which version of the old pump I had. I removed the old part and easily installed the new motor/pump following the directions. It took a little while for the water to begin flowing when I started it back up. Eventually it did get going.

Once i had the dishwasher removed everything went as the instructions indicated except for the overflow switch.I removed the switch from the old bracket which is not required,just install the switch assy. to the new bracket and proceed as instructed. the total repair shouldn't take more than 1 hour if you don't make the mistake i made.I AM VERY SATISFIED WITH PRODUCT.
I HAD NEXT DAY DELIVERY AT REGULAR POSTAGE CHARGE.

I had hoped to be able to do the entire replacement at the floor level through the front panel without moving the dishwasher out of the cabinet. That turned out to be impossible because two of the machine screws holding in the old pump rusted and would not budge.
I did however manage to do the replacement by moving the dishwasher only 16 to 18" out of the cabinet so that I could work on more than one side. A word of advice: Once the pump is disconnected get it out of the house as soon as possible. It will continue to leak on your floor otherwise. No point in getting your pants, shirt and tools all wet.
The best part of this replacement came when I buttoned the whole thing back-up and ran it. This new pump was significantly less noisy than the old one making it possible to stay in the kitchen and actually have a conversation with someone. (My dog no longer leaves either.)
Would I do it again....you bet!

The motor seized up on my 1990 GE Dishwasher
Repair would cost 360. Replacement about 600
I ordered the motor and pump from PartSelect for 137..44
Remover the under counter washer (it‘s very light) and removed the water and drain line and disconnected the power. Turned the washer on it’s top to access the motor and pump and removed the electrical plug in lines, and the clamps holding the pump on to the connections. Replaced it with the new motor and pump, reconnected the electrical plug ins, added an adapter hose part, tightened the original clamps then reconnected the water, drain and electrical connections and reinstalled the washer. All in about an hour, The only glitch was the grounding screw for the ground wire on the motor. The screw was too long to tighten. Substituted the original shorter ground screw from the old motor, and that worked fine. Only used 4 parts from the large assortment of parts supplied.
Immediately ran the washer through a cycle, all worked perfectly.

1. I pulled off the plastic end caps to the top rack that allows the roller wheels to be pulled out of the aluminum rails. You need to push in the raised edge of the plastic caps so they clear the rail slot in order to remove them. This takes a little bit of finger pressure or you can use a flat-edge screw driver to pop them out.
2. Once this procedure is completed, you simply remove the rack and rollers from both rails and remove the old roller wheels and replace them with the new ones.
3. I used a phillips-head screw driver to tighten up the rail wheels before re-installing the top rack into the rails and then re-inserted the end caps. Pliers are handy to help get the end caps back into the rail slots.
4. I finally used a silcon spray on all of the rolling parts of the top tray assembly for lubrication.

It is pretty easy to replace the parts because the new and old parts are identical. I unplugged wire connection, removed the two screws and one small metal piece that fixes the plastic moving part, then put back with new parts.
A little bit extra time may needed due to small space in that location, also the small or flexable screw driver is needed.

Disconnected the electrical, water supply and drain. Pulled unit out from under counter, tipped it on its side and replaced the motor/pump unit. tipped it back on its legs put it back under the counter connected the water supply, drain and electrical. All went well. The unit performs as it should. it took about two (2) hours without rushing through it.