Models > GLTF1670AS0 > Instructions

GLTF1670AS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for GLTF1670AS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GLTF1670AS0
31-45 of 284
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water continued to flow into machine during spin cycle

  • Customer: Howard from Lcolnton GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.
Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.

Washer would not spin

  • Customer: Terri from Glennville GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Ran diagnostic and discovered that the panel did not recognize that the door was locked, thus no spin. I ordered both parts, although I didn't need the door strike/catch. I only needed the locking mechanism. I removed metal ring from around the rubber piece inside the door with needle nose pliers, and then I simply plugged in the new lock and screwed it in place. I put the ring back around the rubber piece, flipped the circuit back on and washed a load of clothes. Easy as pie! Teachers can do anything. Who needs a repair man? :)

broken drum vane needed replacing

  • Customer: Eugene from Westbrook ME
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Front-loading Frigidaire washer made by Electrolux:
I removed the one phillips screw that secures the drum, but found the vane did not slide toward the front as I'd read it should. Nor was I able to squeeze the base to release it. I ended up using a rubber mallet and screwdriver to spring the snaps at the bottom of the vane. Once I had two of these on the same side out, I was able to slide the vane forward and remove it. Turns out there was a metal tab, part of the drum, bent into the vane so it couldn't slide for removal. I bent this tab down even with the drum surface, and the new vane slid in easily.

washing tub had broken away fm 3 of 4 supports

  • Customer: marcia from Holden MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
disconnected fm water supply and electrical ckt
move washer fm beneath dryer (stacking config.)
removed back, found 2 broken shocks (round type) and 1 broken spring (left looking from back). checked online for parts and found your site. ordered and waited a few days.

back on task, removed controls (lower left corner) to reach pins, removed front lower panel, removed pins and broken remains of both shocks. removed broken spring. left remaining spring to keep tub suspended.

back on task when parts arrived. installed shocks --note that it was not clear that there are 2 shocks in each package (so i order 2 pkgs and now have 2 extra shocks --for next time it breaks away ;-)

crafted a 'hanger' with 10ga wire and 2x4 to permit tub to be supported and/or suspended without unduly stressing new components. attached both shocks being careful to follow instructions about alternating direction and orientation in relation to plastic bushing on the shock mounting points. removed remaining spring and used short length of 10ga wire to pull spring into position and lock.

re-assembled back and front cover... re-attached control circuit. moved closer to water and electrical supply and tested through 2 cycles --no problems found.

put back into position and leveled and locked.

works fine now.

Stainless tub in front loader broke 2 out of 3 spider arms

  • Customer: Ed from International Falls MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Removed entire tub assembly, replaced bearings and seal in rear outer tub assembly, had spider arms welded by aluminum welder. alot of work ,saved 150.00 on parts by replacing bearings, savings untold hundreds by doing it myself instead of replare man.. BIG JOB. But just plug away and it goes rather smoothly.

door assembely had a snapped piece of plastic in unit.

  • Customer: DANIEL from STRATFORD NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I released the door gasket and unscrewed the unit .Labeled the connections. then reconnected reattached, then put gasket back on. Worked like a charm!

Cracked vane in washer

  • Customer: William from Juliette GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Removed (1) philips screw in toward back of vane (closest to rear of drum), pulled the vane forward to remove it, slid the new one in place, replaced the screw, and was done in less than two minutes. Piece of cake.

Washer vibration and noise

  • Customer: John from Swansboro NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Vibration/Shock: remove front cover, to remove the shocks depress the tab on the locking pins and push out. Install new shocks and pin in reverse order.

Pump: Disconect power, remove front cover, slowly remove clamp from discharge side of pump and use a sponge or rag to collect water. About one pint will remain in the upper hose. Remove the upper hose after draining. Unplug the power supply to the pump and remove two screws securing the pump to the floor of the washer. Install the new pump and conect wire and hoses.

door would not lock, so washer would not run

  • Customer: Thomas from Troy NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Went on line to your site , found part, read how easy it was for others to repair. So ordered part and replaced myself. I am a woman who's husband is not handy fixing things and it took me no time at all to remove and replace part. Thanks to others who shared how they did in this situation.Much cheaper to repair yourself. You can do it!!

Falling apart!

  • Customer: Michael from El Cajon CA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
It started out with the tub not draining. No problem, has happened before. Remove bottom panel, take boot off of extractor motor, clear out book & check impeller for obstructions. Noticed belot was off. Got new belt. Belt would not stay on, bearings shot. Bearings are pressed into rear outer tub shell. Must remove pulley to get tubs apart. Good luck! Pulley was corroded onto shaft of inner tub. Used various tools, finally ended up grabbing hammer and beating it. Screwed up threads, broke pulley, but got it apart. Re-tapped threads, ordered new pulley. Finally got everything together. Worked intermittantly. Thought it was motor going out. Ordered new motor. It was door switch. Done spending money, bypassed door sensor. Whew! We have clean clothes! Ended up costing about half the price of a new unit, but it basically IS a new unit! Plus I have a spare motor for when that finally goes out!

Washer would leak water out the bottom.

  • Customer: Larry from East Point KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws holding the front panel on and removed the panel. The hose is held on by two spring clips and a hose clamp. After getting those out of the way, I removed the damaged hose and slid the new one into place and fastening it down with the aforementioned clips and clamp.

washer would not spin out

  • Customer: Linda from Dover FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
First called a repairman.Wanted over $300 to put a new door lock assembly in.Searched the web, found PartsSelect,bought part for less than $75,husband did repair in less than 30 min.
VERY happpy customer.

THANKS

Drained but would not spin

  • Customer: Gregory from Louisville KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part was figuring out how to get the lid off. You simply remove two screws from the back of the lid and jerk and slide the lid towards the back of the machine. Take out the screws that hold the front panel on, tilt the front out and access the lock/switch assembly and replace.

Noise During Spin Cycle

  • Customer: Bernie from Point Roberts WA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Using a cordless drill and driver bit I removed the back cover, bottom front cover and top. I then removed the rubber bellowed hose connecting the soap dispenser to the rubber boot in front. This one was tricky to reinstall because the fastener for the hose is twisted steel wire that needs to be undone when reinstalling. It slid off easily enough but would not slide back on easily. There is a second small bellowed hose that connects the dispenser to the outer drum casing. This needs to be removed as well. It comes off easily and went back on easily. I used a one sided razor to cut the glue dots connecting the front boot to the washer door frame. After that I removed the belt from the motor and drum pulley by hand and then removed the motor mounting bolts using a ratchet and socket. This went smoothly. I now propped up the drum using 4x4 cutoff blocks to take the weight off the springs and shocks. I then removed to the lower upper plastic pins that hold the shock onto the plastic spin drum casing. I used a wooded block and a hammer to tap the pins out. Be sure to push in the lock on the tapered end of pin shaft. The second pin was a little more difficult to remove and required quite a bit of tapping to push it all the way through. I tried adjusting the weight on the shocks several times to make it easier to come out. The pin was slightly damaged by the time I got it out from hitting it. It went back in OK so I don't think the damage will cause any problems. Next I got someone to help lift the drum to release the weight on the springs and removed then from the top end. You need to remove the spring clamps that hold the spring down at the top end. I used a wrench to remove the bolt that holds the pullet on the drum shaft. The pulley was easy to pry off shaft by placing two flat screw drivers between the shaft and the bearing casing and twisting the screw drivers. Once the pulley was removed I turned the spin drum casing upside down and supported the outer casing with two stacks of 4x4 cutoff blocks. This would allow the stainless steel drum to be supported above the floor and drop freely as the shaft worked it way out of the bearing casing. Getting the drum shaft out of the outer housing bearing was the most difficult part of this whole process. The shaft was rusty and therefore did not easily slide through the two bearing casings. Before hitting the drum shaft to remove it from the bearing casing I put the washer and bolt back on the shaft to protect the shaft from hammer/mallet damage. I tried a mallet but it only moved the shaft part way and then it wouldn't slide further. I then used a 1/2" steel pipe cutoff as a punch seated around the pulley bolt to alloy me to use a hammer to beat the shaft out of the bearing casing. It required a tremendous amount of force to move the shaft. Once the shaft was removed from the old drum casing I spent some time cleaning the back of the stainless steel drum including using emery cloth to remove the rust from the shaft and polish it the best I could. Be sure not to damage the brass bushing that the rubber bearing seal rides on to prevent water leakage. Once the drum and shaft were cleaned up the reassembly process when smoothly I simply reassembled the washer in the reverse order or the disassembly. The shaft went into the new bearings snugly which I was pleased to see since the snug fit meant that the water would be sealed in and the drum would spin true. The hardest part was reattaching the large bellowed hose onto the soap dispenser because it require undoing the twisted steel wire clamp and getting it back together in a very tight space. I use a combination of a flat screw driving and a needle nose pliers to wrestle it back together. The finished job resulted in a very quiet smoothly operating washer which we expect will give us another 5 years of service.

locking mechanism spring broke

  • Customer: laura from willow creek CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Watched video which was very helpful
All Instructions for the GLTF1670AS0
31-45 of 284