GD5RVAXVY02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The slides fit into the slots of the self metal, but couldn't be pushed forward to lock into place! At first I tried to put the slider in by hand, but it wouldn't snap in place no matter how hard I tried. A friend also tried to get the slider into the slots and push forward to lock in place in the metal part of the shelf. No go! It took a while, but I figured if I used a hammer to tap the slider into place that might work. It did. It would have been helpful to have some instructions on inserting the slider, such as "use a hammer tap the slider so it locks the slider into place". You just can't do it by hand! Other than that, it went really well and replacement then only took 1 minute. . .instead of the 30 minutes it took to try to lock the sliders.

took back of refrigerator, removed water lines, removed electrical connections. removed 2 screws holding water valve, replaced water valve, replaced electrical connection, replaced water lines. Put back on refrigerator. Tested water on freezer door. Didn't work, had to take refrigerator back off again and check the electrical. I didn't get one of the connection put on securely, Put back on refrigerator, check water on freezer door. It worked. Make sure the electrical connection are connected this will sav you about 10 minutes of repair time

It took less than 5 minutes to remove the old filter and install the new one. Push a button and the old one pops out, stick in the new one, and you're done.

The design of this refrigerator door (it's a side-by-side) is somewhat unbelievable. The door is designed to hold things, yet when you do the weight of the door wears out the lower door cams. The cams are designed to "complete the door closing", i.e. when you gently push on the door the cam mechanism takes over. When the cams wear, the door fails to close. Note to others - you may mistakenly think that the failure of the door to close is related to the seal; it is not.

The repair is quite easy; remove the upper cover, using a not driver (socket), then remove the upper door bracket. Make sure you hold the door or have someone else hold it. After the fasteners are removed gently lift up on the door and remove it from the lower cam assembly. You will see two plastic cam pieces; one on the lower bracket and one on the door. Both need to be changed to effectively "renew" the door closing mechanism. Once the cams are replaced the door can be reassembled to the refrigerator.

I removed the Ice door front cover on freezer door. Found door pivot was broken. I installed door pivot bracket, and dashpot in kit. I used most of the kit to repair it. The door now works like new. Thanks for the right parts Frank

Unplug refridge, shut off water supply, remove backing. Remove two screws holding in valve, pull out valve and remove water lines. Have towel to wipe up very little water that leaks out. Unplug electric sources, remove old valve. Take new valve , plug in electric sources, push in water supply until they bottom out, attach bracket to back of refridge. Replace backing, turn on water supply, plug in and bleed lines.

The part to fix this was a $50.00 part.
I purchased this Bracket Dispenser for $6.00 and it fit on My fridge perfectly. I just used the screw hole that was a little higher on the water dispenser. Simply cut off the broken end / or Buy a new Hose (Cost at Lowes about $6.00) guide hose along the bracket and use a socken set to reinstall the screw. Water is not squirting on people any more.

Replaced upper cam piece on bottom hinge and also replaced pivot thimble on upper hinge.
No problems, except pivot thimble glued in place. Had to cut up and pull out with pliers. Everything works like new now.

Removed six screws from cover in the back of the freezer. Removed old fan . Removed power wires from old motor. Unclipped old motor from the mounting bracket. Replaced old motor and reversed the rest of the parts. Done

At their site was ordering each piece by # and cost and it was adding up to be costly. Went to partselect and was doing the same and up pops the ice door kit. Was a little wary because my original had a heater tape to it. Got the kit and installed not a problem at all. 100% satisfied would recommend to anyone.

It was pretty easy to install. The most difficult part was trying to get my hands into the small area to work. I had to use both hands, one to push the release in and the other to pull the tube out. Once I did that, inserting the tube was easy and everything worked perfectly.

First I removed the icemaker from the freezer by removing two horizontal screws holding it to the side wall, and one vertical screw holding the front to a bracket coming off the side wall. Then I used a flat screwdriver to unlock the electrical plug. (After doing this, I realized that this wasn't necessary at all, and this part could have been changed just as easily without removing the icemaker.) On the front, there is a white cover with Ice Maker Plus. Use a flat screwdriver to unlock the tangs and remove the cover. There are three screws in the corners that once removed, will allow the motor assy. to be gently pulled straight out. On the back of the part, you will see many gold lands that the timer touches. I don't think there was anything wrong with my motor. I had two spots where the gold plating was worn off, so I suspect it was not making contact, and the whole process would stop. Slide the new part in place making sure the teeth on the gears line up (not a big deal), and secure with the screws. Install cover and you're done. Mine has been making ice like it was brand new.

First off, if you have the stainless steel panel inserts on your refrigerator you'll need to remove those to do this repair. I kept looking for the access holes on the underside of the dispenser panel that you're supposed to insert a screwdriver into to pry it off. It wasn't until I removed the freezer door handle, slid the lower stainless panel insert out, and removed the rail just beneath the dispenser that I could see and access these holes. I also removed the upper stainless panel and rail just above the dispenser to allow enough movement get the dispenser cover off and out. The rest of the repair is pretty straightforward. The old ice door was beaten up and not closing completely, this was letting warm air into the freezer which was melting and re-freezing. This kit fixed the problem.

Water was dripping out of top freezer door and had water under the refridgerator. I could hear a clicking noice from bottom of refrigerator every 3-5 minutes.
After removing back panel, I noticed the fan was running and the clicking seemed to be coming from somewhere around the compressor which was warm. I noticed on the site a simular problem had been submitted. It said to remove the start relay and if it rattled it was bad. I removed two wires from it ( it is connected onto the side of the compressor) then took a small screw driver to pry it away from the compressor. It not only rattled but had tiny pieces falling out. I ordered the part and replaced it in less than 15 minutes total and all is well.

Removed the ice bin and turned it over. Removed the old coupling and replaced with the new one, reusing the screw that holds it in place. Then removed the cover plate over the drive shaft that comes out of the door. Pulled out the old shaft and removed the plastic ring that keeps stuff from falling into the motor area. Put the ring onto the new shaft and slowly put the new shaft down into the door until it seated in the motor assembly. Replaced the cover plate with the nut driver and voila! The Ice Age has returned. An easy fix once I determined that the drive shaft end was worn where it engages the coupling, causing it to slip and not move the ice dispenser arm.