GC2225GEK3 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

Cut wires and removed old thermosat. Spliced new thermostat wires into exsiting wire. Put it all back together. Works great now. Thanks for all the help. Your site is great. Only problem we had was getting the part from FED EX. Took over 2 weeks had to go pick up the part ourselfs.

remove the bin from the freezer, there are 2 tabs on the lower front cover that pop off and you just pull the entire front cover off. there are 4 nuts that hold the blade cover which you can use the 7in1 with the insert removed.. i believe it's 5/16". remove the cover and the tumbler assembly pops out of the tray.
remove the nut with a set of pliers and lay it out on the table in order.
install is reverse of removal. make sure you get all the washers in the correct location when assembling. don't tighten the nut too tight or it will bind the rotating assembly.

enjoy retrieving ice from the door again!

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

removed old ice bucket by lifting up on the front and pulling straight out.Remove the front it just snaps into place.Remove the cutter comes out real easy.Put these parts on the new bucket.Slide the new bucket back in your done.

Empty freezer to find defrost thermostat, turned off refrigerator, waited for ice to melt. Unpluged unit. Clipped lead wires to thermostat. Trimmed excsess wire on new defrost thermostat, installed butt connector(with heat shrink) to thermostat and then to leads in refrigerator. Heated connector until heat shrink, shrunk down around wires. Let it run for a few days to see if everything was working...and then button it back up.

Removed door. Removed old cam closure assembly. Noticed that there was almost nothing inside the door for screw to screw into(only styrofoam insulation), which is why original screw backed out. Bad design. Got longer screw at bigger diameter. Pushed high strength glue into hole, on screw threads, and underneath screw head. Assembled. Crossed fingers. About three weeks have passed and so far, so good.

Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.

Pop loose the plastic grate at the bottom.

Locate and remove the wheel leveling screw from the front bottom corner.

Remove cotter pin from the pin that mounts the wheel assembly to the refrigerator. Tap out the mounting pin.

Lift out the wheel assembly.

Remove the Roller pin from the wheel assembly. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. A hack saw will also probably work.

Install the new roller pin and wheel into the wheel assembly. Use a hammer or vice to peen over the end of the roller pin.

Reinstall and adjust wheel assembly.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

First I removed the outer shell part then removed the 4 screws holding the ice bin together.After taking the parts out of the old ice bin it was easy to put all the new parts together except the new helix end cap which was a bit tricky to put it in place.It wasn't difficult to reassemble but I would stongly suggest taking notice how everything fits together before taking it apart.

Well it was very simple. I just pulled out the ice cube bucket , removed a few screws from the front of the bucket, pulled the front panel off, replaced the helix end cap too the auger, put all of it back together into a new ice bucket, screwed the front panel back on , than lined up the auger to line up with motor shaft of the freezer motor and what do you know I HAD ICE. My family was happy and i did this for under thirty dollars. A repairman would of cost more than three times that just to look at problem and would of cost more for the parts and the second trip to fix it. Thanks you for making it easy to find the part and for the quick delivery of the parts.

I watched video for repair and it went just like it showed. piece of cake