GA506 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I initially could not figure out how to open the machine so I checked the internet for a repair manual. After getting it open I found the source of the problem. The siphon break was missing the diaphragm and was spitting water when the tub was draining. I did not know what a siphon break was or did. I am non mechanically inclined. So I sealed the top of the siphon break with a sandwich bag and a zip tie, put in a load and went to work. I now know what the siphon break does after it ran all day filling and draining for over 8 hrs. That is when I found this site, ordered the part and received it the next day as promised. It took about 10 minutes to put the part in and close the washer back up. It has been a week now and the garage is almost dry . HA , and my wife wanted a new washer ! This part and delivery was under $25. A new machine around $800 if I am lucky. The ability for me to be smug as long as she never finds out about the sandwich bag incident, PRICELESS !

Once i figured out where it was leaking from(injector hose) it was extremely easy to fix. The best way was 2 screws on front bottom, remove the front panel. Then two bolts that held the top down, lift up and the injector hose assembly was to the left in the back. It took only about 5 min. to completely replace. An extremely easy proccess.

-determined problem
--verify that hose not clogged, screen filters clean then swapped cold w/ hot and verified that the problem was in the hot valve.
-Moved washer to get access to hot/cold valves
--opened access panel holding valve and swapped wires between hot/cold to verify that hot did not activate when it should
--Used voltohmmeter to verify that hot water valve had open circuit.
--Obtained replacement valve, installed, reconnected water lines and verified that hot and cold water worked.

First I unpluged the washer and then I removed the 4 tops screws from the washer front control panel and laid it down on top of the washer lid. I then removed the wires from the current switch and attached them to the new switch making sure they are attached to the correct push on terminals. I then removed the two screws holding the old switch, removed the old switch, seated the new switch and screwed it back in place with a socket wrench. I then put the front panel back in place and scrwed the 4 screws back in place. Took less than 15 minutes. While the switch works fine my problem is still not fixed. I had alrealy replaced the timer switch and how the temperature switch. I still need to figure out why the washer value does not open to let cold water into the tube after it finished the wash and empties the wash water.

took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done

Removed front cover by removal of 2 phillips screws at bottom of front panel. Removed two cap screws from lf and rf corners attaching the top to the side panels. Raised and blocked up with piece of wood the hinged top of machine. Removed hose clamps with nut driver and cotter pin remover to expand the maytag clamps for reuse and to break the stick of the hoses to the old sleeve. Removed the clamp at the water fill valve on the water hose run up to the sleeve. Removed the water injector from the washer fill hose and removed the plastic injector for reuse in the injector hose. Inserted it into the fill hose as the old removed sample revealed. Installed the new improved plastic sleeve with one of two original screws, no longer using two but one screw for mounting. Installed original clamps on new hoses and reinstalled hoses on new sleeve. Pressed run dial center to start fill to ensure water leak was now cured. Reinstalled lf and rf cap screws to side panels. Reinstalled front panel 2 phillips retaining screws. Tested cycles and no leaks, on this 1966 machine bought new in may of 1966, along with its companion maytag dryer. Both remain in good use. A comparable maytag washer is 799. 00 At lowes. . . Thank you, fred maytag, for the best washer with the easiest design to repair, if it ever needs parts. . . And thanks, partselect. Com for having these 44 year old washing machine parts. Interesting to note that this sleeve not only had an added water fence around its open vent slots to prevent water overflow, but that it now tilted rearward on the oem mount to aid in that desire. It is always good to see american companies that are continually upgrading their parts to work better and to fit in older machines, like maytag has always done, in their search for excellence.

I was lucky to find a youtube video that showed every step. The hardest part was removing the front of the machine only because the screws were a little tough to access. Part replacement was quick and easy. It saved me approx $150.00

All I had to do is tilt the machine to expose the bottom and replace the belts. It was fast, easy and the machine works fine now.

Easy video on Parts Select, then it still wouldn't work. The fuse behind the panel was blown, replaced that. And it was hero dad, I expect the bad water inlet valve blew the fuse.
Good Job, thanks for being there.

The repair was very simple.
1. Shut off water and disconnected the water lines.
2. Removed screws holding water valve bracket to wash machine.
3. Disconnected electrical connections and water fill hose.
Installation was reverse of removal. The directions said to use a small piece of rubber hose that was included in the package, but it was not necessary. Double check for water leaks before finishing installation.

The water valve on the cold side was making noise when cold water ran. I removed the screens but did not see a problem. I ordered a new valve and installed. The noise is gone and the water flow is back to normal.

At the time we did not realize the water flow had slowed.

This is for replacement of the complete injector hose kit, item number PS11738785. (1) Run spin cycle to drain any water from the tub. (2) Unplug machine and pull out from wall about 6". It is not necessary to disconnect supply or drain hoses from the wall. (3) Remove two screws at bottom of front panel, swing panel out until it comes loose at the top; set aside. (4)Disconnect the top end of the fabric softener tube from the filler port in the lid. If you let this drop, a small amount of water may drain out. (5) Remove two screws inside the top front corners holding the top to the sides. Raise the top panel on its rear hinges; it will lean back out of the way and remain attached. You can now see the s-shaped injector hose that connects the water valve to the top of the tub, with a small clear plastic box in the middle that contains the air gap tube. You may be able to replace just the small air gap tube inside that box, about 3" long, by disconnecting the front section of the hose from the plastic box - I've done that successfully several times before, but this time the upstream hose was eroded inside and still allowed leakage after replacing the air gap tube, so I ordered and replaced the whole injector hose kit. (7) Remove one screw attaching the plastic box to the side panel. (8) Disconnect the upstream end of the hose from the valve body. You may need to replace the hose clamp there, which doesn't come with the kit. (9) The downstream end of the hose is held in the top rim of the tub by a plastic end fitting; turn the entire hose assembly clockwise - toward your right - about 90 degrees, and lift it out of the hole, and discard. (10) Reverse that step with the new hose; push the fitting down into the hole [it only fits one way, like a car's radiator cap] and rotate the assembly counter-clockwise. (11) Clamp the upstream end of the hose to the valve body, do not over-tighten and cut the hose. (12) Fasten the plastic box to the top of the side panel with the screw from step 7. (13) Lower the top panel into place and reattach the fabric softener hose to the filler port. (14) Plug in and run a brief fill cycle to test for leaks. If OK, run spin cycle to dump water and reduce weight of machine. (15) Reattach top panel at top two corners. (16) Reinstall front panel; holding the bottom out at a 45 degree angle, slide the top brackets under the front edge of the top panel, swing down, reinstall two screws at the bottom corners.

Remove frt cover to confirm leaks. Removed clamps and installed new hoses. Run washer to confirm repair. Washer is 58 years old and costs are less then 50.00 to fix every 4 years

It should have been extremely easy, but it was a little difficult because my laundry room is very small and I had extremely limited space to work in and also had limited lighting. However, after taking many minutes to strategically plan how to maneuver in the tiny space, I was able to loosen the giant clamp on the hose inside the washer and attach the new hose! It worked like a charm! My 25 year old Maytag is working again! The part came in a bag certified as a genuine Whirlpool part and looked exactly like the old one! No complaints! The online installation videos are wonderful!

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.