FDB125RHB2 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

The latch on the soap dispenser got worn out over the past few years on the dishwasher. I tried just puting the detergent into it and running it as usual. The detergent was added Immediatley.. missing the proper timing that would normally dispense it properly. As a result the dishes were not coming out clean and lacked the shiny clean quality we were accustomed to . I ordered the right part, got it quickly and put it in..and were back to doing dishes and having them come out the right way...spotless and clean like they should.

10 year old stainless steel faced Frigidaire dishwasher. The motor assembly part fixed my problem. This was the second part required to fix the dishwasher. A week prior I replaced the inlet water solenoid switch to correct the "no water filling issue". I think that the main motor assembly pump ran dry and caused it to fail, so it is critical NEVER to run this part dry. The repair was relatively easy, I will say it would be great to have some instructions with the parts, however the kit came with everything. you essentially slide the dishwasher out disconnecting power and water ( i left the discharge connected since the service loop was long). you disconnect all the main pump electrical and water connections, labeling made it easy. you take the motor assembly out thru the inside tub. Once the internal sump assembly is out you can clean the sump and remove the old pump. Pull it out straight and dont wiggle it. The kit comes with new O rings that i put a light smear of vaseline on for a good seal. You reinstall the sump and make connections. Since my dishwasher is old, the original Molex power connector to the motor is different on the new motor. The kit comes with a new style connector, what you have to do is snip off your old connector and the kit comes with a new connector with crimps on the ends, you slide the provided heat shrink over each wire and then crimp your dishwashers wires to the new connector. I then used a butane lighter to shrink the heat shrink. The heat shrink is not absolutely necessary since the crimps are insulated, but since the kit came with two perfectly cut pieces of heat shrink I felt obligated to use it. This sounds all complicated but it really wasn't and much cheaper than a new dishwasher! Interestingly and this only maybe in my case but the dishwasher seems to clean better than it ever did.. for now we are not pre-rinsing!

After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.

Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.

Water leak solved...

Removed eight screws holding front panel to door; placed blanket below it beforehand based on tip read in another person’s post. Removed two screws holding switch in place and then transferred four wire connectors one at a time. Replaced latch assembly with two screws. Replaced front door panel by reinstalling eight previously removed screws then did a load of dishes.

I was impressed with the user friendly format of your web site. I was able to quickly look up the part I needed. It arrived much faster than I expected after my order was placed.

I have already recommended the site to a friend needing parts for a Gibson dishwasher.

Pulled out old gasket from bottom of door with needle nosed pliers and then put in new one in.

Removed the bottom panel on the unit (2 screws hold it on) and pulled the dishwasher out about 4"--after turning off electricity to the unit. Removed the broken spring and the old linkage and replaced them with the new parts. Pushed the diswasher back into place, and replaced the bottom panel. Turned on the electricity and the diswasher door is "good as new." This is quite simple to do; just takes patience.

Replaced door switch as follows: (1) turned off circuit breaker powering unit; (2)removed six screws holding front control panel cover to chasis and pulled cover out slightly to expose switch; (3) labelled four connectors on wires to switch with marking pen; (4) disconnected the four wires: (5) removed two screws holding switch to chasis; (6)installed new switch with the two screws; (7) reconnected the four wires; (8)replaced cover panel and (9) turned circuit breaker back on.

I removed the dishwasher from the cabinet space (two screws) and manually replaced both springs. I replaced one spring first to see if there would be an improvement when the second new spring was installed. There was much better tension once the second new spring was added.That is why changing both springs is recommended. This was very easy.
Changing the gasket was scary because I thought the the whole door would have to be taken apart. You know nothing ever goes back together the same. I feared that I would create an even bigger leak than what I had. Taken the door apart didnt work for me, so I just pulled the old gasket by hand and pressed in the new one. I made sure that it was seated correctly. Voila no leak.
The dishwasher is running as good as new.
I ordered these parts on Friday morning. They were on my door step Monday morning,
I highly recommend ordering from this site.

Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pulled out about 1 foot. Took bottom plate off of dishwasher. Undid clamp on hose of discharge of inlet water valve and removed hose. Shut off water to water inlet valve and removed. Took wiring clip off of water inlet valve. Removed 2 screws holding water inlet valve in place. Installed new water inlet valve in reverse order.

Fully open dishwasher door to horizontal position, remove lower dishwasher rack and relocate to another temp location, grab old lower door seal from right or left corner and pull completely out of door, lay the old bottom seal aside facing the same direction as once installed (seal has a notched side which faces the right side of door), match direction of the new seal with the old seal (match the notched side of seal to the right side of door), gently push the seal into the door starting on the right side (notched side of seal fits tightly into a receiving area inside the door), and finally push the remaining portion of the seal into door (aligning with the right side already properly seated inside dishwasher door). Close dishwasher and run water cycle to confirm leak.

Only took me 5 sec, just push it in. Good as new. Thanks for the fast deliver .

Make sure power is off. Remove metal toe kick with fillips screw driver. Reach under dishwasher with 1/2" open
end wrench and completly unscrew brass nuts from element ends. Then open door and pull element ends straight up. Note: As you pull element ends up (inside washer) you are also forcing the element end wire connectors to come off underneath. The electricial connectors are very hard to get off any other way.

Wendell Hensley
Madiso0nville, Tn

I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter. I then had to unscrew (from the bottom) the bolts that held the heater in place. After that I ran into a problem of disconnecting the wires that ran to the heater. I did not want to "force" the wires off and I was unsure how exactly to remove them. I figured out that they are really hard to pull off but there are no clips holding them on, so you won't break anything off. Once I got the wires off, I was able to screw the nuts onto the new heater and put it back into place.

Removed the dishwasher from under the counter, and ran to diagnose the problem. Drain pump ran, but circulating motor did not. Ordered the replacement circ pump / motor assy, and slid the washer back in its hole.
When the new motor arrived, I slid it back out, disconnected everything, and drained the water from the bottom. Then I tipped the washer on its side, removed the old motor and installed the new one following included instructions. I did have to use the new wiring harness, and found the new one had only two leads where the original had three. I connected the blue and white leads, and left the original green loose.
All in all, it was an easy repair that could be done by anyone with a basic set of skills.