DW980B-CAN Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the old gasket, without tools, and fit the new gasket into the space, making sure it was in the groove correctly all around, job done, works great. The ordering of the gasket on this site was easy and the shipping time was amazing, one day. Would use this company again, and recommend to anyone needing parts that wants to do repairs themself. I am sure saved a whole lot over hiring someone, and got the job done sooner also.

Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.

Even though there was plenty of water pressure from the pump, the lower arm would not spin. I could move it with my hand but there was too much friction for it to spin. Turns out an item named seal ring[38] (I would call it a slip ring) had become dislodged somehow at the interface between the rotating parts and the stationary parts but I did not learn that until I was able to disassemble it. I could see from the diagram that there were threads at the top of the SPRAY ARM SUPPORT[39] that engaged with the threads in the CENTER SPRAY NOZZLE EXTENSION[33] so I held the arm and tried to unscrew [33]. CRACK! The 4 thin plastic arms in [39] snapped right off. I then disassembled and found the dislodged seal ring[38]. I concluded that I would never have been able to disassemble without breaking [39] due to the calcium in the threads (even with repeated applications of vinegar or lime away): the plastic arms are just too wimpy. But the price of a new [39] was a bargain, I was amazed. Came in 2 days, I re-assembled, now the spray arm spins freely and the dishwasher works again. I will try to remember to use vinegar periodically incase the slip ring dislodges again. This has been a great dishwasher otherwise IMHO( and a bargain price).

After replacing the door gasket and seeing that this wasn't the problem, using the schematics found at partselect.com I finally realized that it may be the insulation foam strip. I ordered the product and received it very quickly. Installation went fairly quickly. It was easy to remove the old foam strip and install the new one. The only problem was that the foam strip was about 1/4 " too short and it didn't cover the entire bottom. I improvised a little bit and cut off some of the old strip and covered the gap. So far the leak seems to have been fixed. In addition to the foam strip I had to buy a torx screwdriver for $11 at the local hardware store. The total spent was around $25.

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

The part arrived sooner than I was ready to install! But it only took about 30 mins.(could take less but I like to do extra) I used a cordless drill with a star bit to remove the 7 screws holding on the inside plastic door cover. I unplugged the four electrical plugs so I could take the cover off completely. Once removing the cover I placed the cover on the kitchen counter to work on. I removed the liquid softner dispenser by turning tthe big threaded white plastic gromet on the front side of cover. I checked the big o ring for wear. Before reinstalling the liquid dispenser I placed a bead on 3-M black gasket silicon around the base and placed the o-ring on top of it just to make sure that it won't leak either. (this is installed last) There was quite a bit of the calcium build all over the parts. I cleaned this up with some CLR and a toothbrush, you don't have too but I'm a little picky and do not want to open it up again.
There are 2 little hex head screws holding the latch and associated hardware in place removing them was no problem. remove the old rubber gromet and put the new one on. Make sure the area where the gromet seats is smooth and clean. Now put it all back together and you should have no leaks

My original order was for the "Motor Gasket" in the bottom of the tub that just looked nasty. Not leaking. Replacing that was a little more complicated, but used another customer's recommendations and worked great. Ran an empty load to check for leaks and thats when we discovered that we had a leak on the side of the darn thing. So we ordered the "Injector Seal Ring. Got it in about 5 days and after installing, (2 seconds), we still had a leak! Soooo, ordered the "Water Inlet Injector". 5 days later, we have NO MORE LEAKS!!! I would STRONGLY suggest that anyone who has a leak at the Water Inlet, order a new Injector right along with the Seal Ring. The shipping and handling was WAY more than the price of the parts. I'm happy to say that my 10 year old dishwasher is running like a champ. Thank You.

Take the bottom skirts off of front. Put drain solinoid back in its bore and secure with wire or a rubber band.It will be a chrome cylinder hanging Take the center spray section out and look for the broken lever. Get both pieces out if it split and fell in two. Mine usually crack and stay on the shaft. Pull the circlip off and slide new lever in place and replace circlip. Re-assemble center section. If you are going to keep the dishwasher buy extra levers. I buy them 2 at a time and try to keep a spare.

Simply remove the washer nut,then pull the float assembly. As far the lever,just unscrew the screw and replace the actuator lever. What was great about everything I was able to go to the presented diagram. This allowed me to find the exact parts I needed. Of course make sure you have the model number.

removed spray head, pulled motor/pump assembly. took apart impeller housing and then removed motor and pulled impeller off its shaft, the most difficult part was actually pulling off impeller from the splined shaft. I actually broke old impeller in the process. The good thing is that the new seal came assembled with new impeller so that was not a problem. After re-assembling everything it worked fine and still works for a week since repair.

Remove the Palnut Screw from bottom of Float assembly using pliers, Remove Pivot pin from Actuator lever w/ screw driver. Replace the Float , install new palnut Screw and re-install pivot pin on actuator lever.

That's it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Make sure dishwasher is powered off. Remove all inner door panel screws. Lift inner door panel upward and lean against the tub. Use a putty knife or spatula to lift old lower foam seal. Make sure door seal area is clean. Start at one end, butt new foam against the side of door and slowly pull glue strip backing while pressing foam down from left to right. Reverse door assembly.

Make sure dishwasher if off and door unlatched. Remove lower kick panel 4 screws and remove 1 screw securing float switch arm. Hold float stem with pliers and remove bottom stem nut. Remove float and re-install the new float with reverse procedure listed.
Super fast shipping on items!! Great service.

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

Dealer phone quote = $250. DIY repair = $55.
Turn-off DW electrical circuit breaker and shut-off hot water supply. Remove lower Front Access Panel and Toe Panel. Disconnect hot water supply, corrugated drain hose, electrical connection, and uncounter mounting brackets. Slide-out DW (being careful not to scratch flooring) and gently tip DW onto its back side. Rotate Ring-Lock at underside of Tub and (from inside the Tub) carefully lift out Motor-and-Pump assembly. At the Motor-and-Pump assembly, unscrew Center Spray Nozzle and remove Lower Spray Arm and lv Filter. At the end of the Impeller, remove Chopper Screw, Chopper, Chopper Plate (rotate 1/4 turn) and Chopper Wear Ring. Remove Motor Mount Screws and Motor Shield. Loosen Impeller {NOTE: left-hand thread} from motor shaft by the holding Motor Fan stationary and unscrewing Impeller. Pull apart the Motor and Impeller; discard old Impeller. Gently and thoroughly clean the internal surface of Housing Assembly seal with a toothbrush and soapy water. Carefully reassemble in the reverse order using the new Impeller. (Prophylactically, I also replaced the Motor "O" Ring and Pump Gasket.) DW works perfectly; no leaks!

The repair was EASY! Took bottom drawer out. Used tool to remove 3 screws that held belly screen and washer arms together. Used needlenose plyers to unscrew long pointed center screw (plastic!) then reassmenbled! Hey BATTA BING BATTA BOOM!