2097779-1-S-Whirlpool-912529-Pump Gasket
2097779-1-S-Whirlpool-912529-Pump Gasket 2097779-2-S-Whirlpool-912529-Pump Gasket 2097779-3-S-Whirlpool-912529-Pump Gasket http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/53879.gif

Pump Gasket

PartSelect Number PS2097779

This gasket seals the pump.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Leaking.
  • Not cleaning dishes properly.
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.3 / 5.0, 10 reviews What's this?
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60 of 69 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Stephen from Sante Fe, NM

Grinding noise during wash and rinse

First off, I must give thanks to Partselect.com for excellent service. They had the parts I needed, a Diagram of how the parts should go into the Dishwasher, and shipping was very quick and reasonable priced. Thank you Partselect.com.

After dinner we heard our Maytag MDB5100AWW dishwasher start grinding during its wash cycle. Needless to say we found this quite concerning, as this is not what a healthy dishwasher should sound like. After fiddling around with it, I started researching the issue and found Partselect.com where it was stated the “Discharge Housing Assembly (Discharge Pump Housing)” was a common failure point. After disassembling the “Pump and Motor” section of the dishwasher, it was confirmed that the Discharge Housing was indeed broken. Since this Dishwasher is over 8 years old, I figured that I might as well replace a few other parts as well, since I'm in there working on it.

Following the blow-up image of the Pump and Motor picture;

Unscrew part 34

Pull out part 1

Lift Part 2, which is attached to part 36

Unscrew part 5 (6 of them) from part 4, be careful not to loose part 3, sitting inside part 4

Lift out part 6 and 7

Unscrew part 8 and lift out part 9

Unscrew part 27 (three of them) and lift out part 11

The bottom plate of this part is the broken part.

Now, since we are in here replacing a part, we might as well replace a few other parts and give this dishwasher a little longer life. I opted to replace the following parts as well, being that my dishwasher was over 8 years old and the gaskets were showing some age.

Part 4 – Pump Cover and Secondary Filter Assembly; I replaced this part because food often gets caught inside the filters and will throw off the balance during a wash or rinse, thus putting premature wear on bearings and o-rings. My filter had a bunch of food on one side, and the only way to remove the food was to slit open a section of the filter, thus damaging the filter screen.

Part 37 – O-Ring that goes inside the Pump Cover and Secondary Filter Assembly. O-rings are rubber and do wear with age. My dishwasher didn't even have this o-ring; now it does.

Part 3 – Lower Spray Arm Seal; I noticed when pulling these parts out that the hard water in our living area was making these somewhat brittle. When ordering these, get two of them, as the picture indicates. If you order one, the package only contains one, and not two was the image shows it should have.

Part 11 – Discharge Housing Assembly (Discharge Pump Housing). This is the part that is making all the grinding noise. The new part will show that it is built a little differently. It appears that Maytag figured out the weak design of this part and made the replacements stronger.

Part 17 – Even though I ordered this, you don't need to order this part if you order the Part 10 kit. The part 10 kit will include this o-ring. Because its an O-ring, I replaced it; as stated above, o-rings do breakdown.

Part 25 – Pump Gasket; This part should really be called the Pump Housing Gasket, as it isolates the Pump Housing bucket and the Dishwasher tub. I bought this because my original gasket was looking pretty nasty and was coming apart.

Part 10 – Seal Kit (Motor/Pump) (Motor/Pump Impeller and Seal Assembly), this kit includes several components that if purchased separately would easily be twice the cost of this kit. Again, seals and Motor Pump seals are a good thing to replace when needing to do work inside the dishwasher.

Continuing on from the previous dis-assembly list;

Unscrew part 12 and remove part 14, 15 and 16.

Unroll part 17 (o-ring) and remove part 18.

Unscrew parts 19 and carefully remove part 20, being VERY careful to not loose part 39.

Lift out part 22, which will include the bearing inside of part 22.

Pry out part 24 with a pick (the replacement is in the kit of part 10).

To remove part 25, you must Remove part 12 of the Door Assembly (see the Door image) to reach the motor element.

Next unscrew part 14 of the “TUB” i

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14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Pump Gasket
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Kenneth from Brooks, GA

Pump gasket had deteriorated with age and causing odors.

The dishwasher is well engineered to perform this work.

Remove the bottom two panels to provide access and visibility to base of pump motor.

Locate plastic pump locking lever and push toward rear of DW to unlock pump from DW.

Inside the DW remove basketsand spray arms. Revove screws holding cover over pump motor and remove cover.

From below raise pump motor and support with block (piece of 2x4 worked well).

insde DW, removre old gasket, clean well around pump and botom of DW, install new gasket.

From below remove block to drop pump motro back into place, and re-tighten locking lever by pull toward you.

re-assemble inside componets, run through a rinse cycle to test for leaks and replace bottom panels.


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16 of 26 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Larry from Arlington, VA

Diswasher would not drain

1) turned off power to dishwasher
2) removed each piece of pump assembly (one at a time) from inside the dishwasher. I had no repair manual and didn't know that by rotating the lock lever under the dishwasher, I could have easily removed the entire pump assembly as a unit.
3) Reassmebled the pump assembly using new parts and installed in dishwasher.
4) Reconnected hoses and electrical connection
5) Turned power back on
6) Washed dishes... it's as good as new!!!!

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10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Roger from Palm Bay, FL

Leaking water from the discharge hose and pump gasket

1) Remove the lower dish rack.
2) Use towel to soak up any water in the dishwasher.
3) Remove the bottom plate on the dishwasher front.
4) Remove clamp from around the discharge hose. Some water will drain out so have towel handy.
5) Dishwasher will need to be pulled out from its built-in area in order to feed the old discharge hose out and the new one in. MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS ENOUGH PLAY IN THE ELECTRICAL WIRES AND THE INPUT WATER LINE TO THE DISHWASHER TO ALLOW IT TO BE PULLED OUT.
6) Loosen, all the way, the white plastic locking arm that clamps the pump housing. It clamps on a white corrugated plastic piece.
7) Remove the spindle arm inside the washer by unscrewing the "tower" piece.
8) Remove the screws from the pump housing on the inside of the washer.
9) Lift the pump housing carefully and remove the rubber gasket from around the housing. There is enough play to remove the gasket and put the new one on.
10) Clean the area around the housing so that the new gasket seats properly.
11) The new gasket will have to be installed before re-installing the discharge hose.
12) Re-install screws in pump housing.
13) Re-install the spindle arm.
14) Tighten the white plastic locking arm underneath the washer that locks down the pump housing.
15) The new discharge hose can now be reconnected between the sink drain and the dishwasher.
16) Dishwasher can now be put back into its place.
17) Before closing up the bottom plate of the dishwasher, it should be run and checked for leaks before finally closing up. My advice - let it stand overnight before checking for leaks. after running.

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6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Customer: Ron from Sandusky, MI

Deteriorated (and leaking) impeller seal.

Dealer phone quote = $250. DIY repair = $55.
Turn-off DW electrical circuit breaker and shut-off hot water supply. Remove lower Front Access Panel and Toe Panel. Disconnect hot water supply, corrugated drain hose, electrical connection, and uncounter mounting brackets. Slide-out DW (being careful not to scratch flooring) and gently tip DW onto its back side. Rotate Ring-Lock at underside of Tub and (from inside the Tub) carefully lift out Motor-and-Pump assembly. At the Motor-and-Pump assembly, unscrew Center Spray Nozzle and remove Lower Spray Arm and lv Filter. At the end of the Impeller, remove Chopper Screw, Chopper, Chopper Plate (rotate 1/4 turn) and Chopper Wear Ring. Remove Motor Mount Screws and Motor Shield. Loosen Impeller {NOTE: left-hand thread} from motor shaft by the holding Motor Fan stationary and unscrewing Impeller. Pull apart the Motor and Impeller; discard old Impeller. Gently and thoroughly clean the internal surface of Housing Assembly seal with a toothbrush and soapy water. Carefully reassemble in the reverse order using the new Impeller. (Prophylactically, I also replaced the Motor "O" Ring and Pump Gasket.) DW works perfectly; no leaks!

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