DLL1 Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

Received part in two days.
Removed inspection plate by removing two screws. .Drum bearing was right there. With screwdriver
removed "c" clip, took out what was left of old bearing.
With screwdriver aligned drum, slide new bearing into place. Job was done. Instruction with new part simple and easy to follow.

We ordered a new lint filter with white frame from Part Select. Had to take the dryer outside and blow all lint out that had accumulated in the dryer. We then vacumed everything out and brought back in house and put in new lint filter we ordered and used the dryer today and it works beautiful. Saved us from having to buy a new dryer. Thanks Part Select for having the filter we needed. Raymond Kampsen, Vassar, Ks.

Open the door. Remove torx screws just above the door. This allows the top to fold up toward the back.

Remove 2 screws with nutdriver just inside the top on each side. Then loosen 2 screws with nutdriver at the front near the bottom. The front can be lifted up and swung around to the right to get it out of the way. Optional: Disconnect the wires to get it completely out of the way.

From the back of the dryer bend the spring-loaded bar that holds a pulley to the belt just enough to release the belt.

From the front pull out the drum forward and out of the dryer. The belt will come with it.

Now you can see the inner and outer heater coil elements. Both of mine were clearly broken. At this point follow the directions in the replacement kit.

Reinstall in reverse order.

To perform this repair (please see numerous descriptions on the web for generic belt replacement) I had to rivet two loose parts to the drum in order to reinstall the drum. Specifically, the loose metal disk and hot air shroud at the rear of the drum (near the rear berrings) made it impossible to realign the parts to reinstall the three torx bolts at the rear of the drum during reassembly. These two loose parts are positioned behind the drum (when looking inside the drum) i.e. between the drum and the rear berrings.

It was necessary to align the mounting holes in the drum, disk, and air shroud outside of the dryer itself and then to rivet them in place (making sure the smooth rivet head was INSIDE the drum as to avoid providing a rough edge where the clothes could catch during tumbling). Just press the 3 torx bolts through the holes to establish correct alignment. Be sure to install the rivets ouside of the contact area between the heat shroud and mounting plate. You should see an indented pattern on the heat shroud that you can use as a guide.

It was also helpful to make a black mark on one of the drum mounting holes (inside the drum) and its mate on the berring attachment plate - to help orient you when installing the drum with the 3 torx bolts. It only aligns one way - and making the marks will save you aggravation while your head is in the drum during reassembly. Loud swearing at this point only punishes your ears because, after all, your head is in an acoustically punishing echo chamber - and the echoes make it seem as if the dryer is actually cussing YOU and your incompetence out...

I hope this helps someone else save some time in reinstalling the drum.

One additional pointer: you must remove the lower plate on the rear side of the dryer to wrap the belt around the tensioner pulley and motor drive. The belt wraps, from right to left, first around the motor pulley and then up and to the left around the tensioner pulley. Just place the belt around the motor pulley, and then pull the tensioner pulley toward you and leftward until it clears the belt, then push toward the front of the dryer - and let the tensioner contact the belt on the right side of the tensioner pulley.

And finally, the ribbed side of the belt makes contact with the drum and the motor pulley. The smooth side of the belt is in contact with the tensioner pulley. Good luck, and may the choice words I used during the process be unnecessary for you... for you... for you!

It took more time to figure out how to get the dryer apart than it did to fix it. Unfortunately I ordered the wrong parts the first time but Part Select was very helpful and efficient in helping me get the correct parts. I located the two screws that hold the top onto the machine inside the door frame at the top. Once the top was off, there were two screws that held the front door assembly to the dryer. The old parts (very worn and next to totally gone = none of the slides were remaining) were easy to snap out and the new parts easy to snap in to place. The Spa is happy that the dryer is quiet again and can be run when we have clients waiting. Thanks to you Part Select.

When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!

Belt and pulley both broke. Ordered parts; received 2 days later. Took off front and top, positioned belt, replaced pulley and nut. Parts fit perfectly. Reinstalled covers. Ran dryer. Easy fix.

pulled off door, front panel and rear access panel. unscrewed drum. cleaned every thing. removed and replaced front slides, belt idler pulley and rear bearing. Reassembled everything. Dryer is as quiet as a it was when brand new.

I received the replacement part I ordered from PartSelect.com within 3 days of placing the order. I opened the plastic bag it came in. I snapped the part into the holes left vacant by aforementioned abscence of broken part.

Replaced drum bearings, adjusted screw levelers trying to find the source of the noise. It was hard tracking it down. Finally lubricated the drum slides with WD40 and it resolved the problem for a couple days. Decided to try replacing the drum slides. The old ones did not look worn out - still had teflon surfaces - it was not metal on metal like I suspected. But when I got the replacement parts, there were 2 tubes of lubricant with notes that only this specific lubricant needed to be used on these slides. The teflon slides have a fiber material under them, and soaks up the lubricant. Problem appears to be solved. Whether it would be possible to purchase the lubricant only (since the slides looked OK) might be a question, however, the replacement kit cost was reasonable given that it solved the problem.

--Removed bottom rear panel (right under where 220 line comes in) which exposed belt and idler pulley.
--Relieved tension on belt by moving idler arm and moved belt off idler puller (just to the side).
--Removed e-clip.
--Removed old pulley and washers.
--Installed new thick plastic washer first, then pulley, then e-clip.
--Relieve tension and place belt back on new pulley.
--Replace back panel.
-Fini!

Remove old one, put the new one in!

Removed the broken handle from the dryer and popped on the new one.

my two twin boys Mike and Curtis age 14 did the repare they toke of the front of the dryer then the top put the belt around the drum then put the top and front back on then went to the back and removed the panel and put the belt on the pulley then set the tension wheel then put the back cover back on
the repair was easy I watched to make sure they did it right and did not have to tell them how I am very proud of them they do great work
finding the part was easy and it was here the next day after I ordered it and it was only sent 3 to 5 work days. You guys have a great web site and fast shipping thanks for the good work!

I just pressed the latch with my thumb, the latch went in, and voila....job done. Thank you