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PartSelect Number PS267865
This part is the rear dryer drum bearing only. This part helps keep your dryer running smoothly as possible with as little noise as possible.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Opened up machine per instructions.After examining drum slides and rear drum bearing, determined that all should be replaced due to excessive wear. Drum slides were the chief cause of the squealing, and they were as simple to replace as removing 4 nut drive screws, pulling off the old parts, and replacing with new. The drum bearing had to be coaxed out by tapping with a screwdriver, but the old was just able to be pushed in. All parts came with instructions, so the repair was easy. And no more squealing!
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Received part in two days.Removed inspection plate by removing two screws. .Drum bearing was right there. With screwdriverremoved "c" clip, took out what was left of old bearing.With screwdriver aligned drum, slide new bearing into place. Job was done. Instruction with new part simple and easy to follow.
pulled off door, front panel and rear access panel. unscrewed drum. cleaned every thing. removed and replaced front slides, belt idler pulley and rear bearing. Reassembled everything. Dryer is as quiet as a it was when brand new.
I unplugged the machine, then unscrewed two screws that hold the top and front together, and lifted off the front door. When I pulled the drum out through the front, the belt came out broken. It was the original, so this is not a surprise. I ALWAYS take this dryer apart once a year to vacuum it out, clean all the ducts and fan, and check everything. This dryer is fifteen years old, and has survived three teenage daughters with their laundry. This time I noticed that the sliders on the front door were worn, blower wheel was loose, and rear bearing was loose,so I ordered everything. The parts came in three days. By then, you could no longer see the basement floor with piles of laundry and Friday night dates looming. I had everything replaced and working in under an hour, after which there was a conflict over who gets to use it first. Hey, I only fixed it, then I walked away. So, for 140 bucks, I have now replaced virtually every critical part, and with no rust, this thing will last as long as these guys have parts. I'm happy, my daughters are happy, and that means the wife is happy. And we all know what that means...
After removing the front panel with a 1/4" nut driver; I removed the drum, rear shield and spacer using a 3/8" ratchet, 6" extension and torx socket for the three drum screws. I then removed the 4 screws on the rear heat guard panel to get to the rear bearing assembly. I removed the rear bearing assembly and replaced the plastic bearing and then re-assembled it. Total time was less than 30 minutes. Now the problems began. Trying to line up the drum to the bearing plate was very difficult due to the bulk of the drum. After some frustration time I devised a way to do it. I took 3 1/12 inch #10-24 screws and cut the heads off. Then I screwd them into to bearing plate as guide pins. I then backed them out after installing each of the mounting screws. It worked very well. Next as I have large arms and hands Iworked form at least 30 minutes to attached the drive belt to the moto and idler pulley. I finally got it on by attaching the belt first around the motor then pulled the idler arm down to engage it over the belt. Took a lot of positioning my hand correctly to get enough leverage to pull the idler arm down far enough. All in all not to complicated and my wife just won't part with this dryer that really dries clothes quickly.I glad I took on the task to repair it and my hats go off to PartSelect.com for quickly and correctly filg mypart order. Hope you have the same success.
Removed front panel and rear access panel of dryer. Removed drum just far enough to access old drum bushing and removed and replaced it. Removed pulley spring arm retainer bracket in back of dryer. Removed old pulley and nut and replaced them with new ones and new bushing. Only problem encountered is when my daughter's cat ate 2 of the bolts that hold the rear access cover. Dryer runs well and quiet and cat is fine.
removed top by removing two screw inside door,found felt was out of place and ruined--found some wear on bearing at rear of drum--decided toreplace these parts plus fround bearing--alsonew belt ,since it was apart---to remove the drumyou have to remove front panel,which requiredremoving two bolts from inside at top--front ofdryer just lays down--then you can pull tub out- I read other customers repair storys ,which made it real easy.
I removed the rear panel to access the drive belt. Lowered the pulley to remove the belt and then took off the front panel and popped the top lid off. The belt was slightly frayed on the edges and looked a little old. Inside of the dryer was filled with lint, noticed the vent that sucks the lint from the dryer was almost totally blocked because off caked on lint. Probably from the moisture when we lived in Tx and had it in our garage. Sucked it out with the shop vac and scraped the rest. Removed the whole drum and that's when I noticed the rear drum bearing was totally destroyed and only a piece or two remained. Ordered the drum bearing and drive belt. I was about to put them on when I saw the drum slides were worn pretty thin. So I had to order more drum slides. That's why it took me so long to repair the dryer. If I had the parts already, it would have only taken an hour or so. I was pretty excited that I did it myself, since my husband usually fixes everything around the house. Easier than I thought :o)
The repair in retrospect was very easy. Not knowing alot about the dryer I made one mistake. I put the bearing in backwards and broke the rubber gasket. After ordering a new gasket and paying close attention to what I was doing it worked out fine. Saved me about $200 for a repairman.
I removed the front panel and the top of the dryer, pulled the drum forward and removed the old rear drum bearing then inserted the new rear drum bearing. I didn't replace the washers or the retaining ring in the back. Put the drum shaft into the new rear drum bearing. Put the front panel and the top in place and started using the dryer again.
Disassembled;(mainly just taking screws out) blew/vacuumed 50 pounds of lint from chassis/motor area ; replaced thermostat, and while I had it apart replaced belt and bearing. Runs/dries like new
I opened the top,by removing the two screws inside the dooron the top. then removed the frount by removing the two 5/16 sheet metal screws inside facing the frount. then pulled the drum out and replaced the berring. Cleaned out the lent from the motor and duckings. Then reasembled.
Opened door and found recessed screws that screw into the top of the dry and removed them and then the front removed very easy. Then took of the plate on the back of the dryer to get to the pulley that the drive belt was on and took the belt off the pulley. The dry drum then slid out very easy, there was 2 of use which helped with the ease of getting the drum out. We replace the bearing and the idler pulley wheel. Vaccummed the lent out and then put it back together. Now it is squeek free.
Unfastened 4 screws and lifted the top panel; unfastened 2 top screws, loosened bottom 2 screws holding the front panel,lifted and removed front panel with door. Unfastened 10 screws holding rear access panel, removed panel. Relieved tension on drive belt, removed belt; Removed drum through front of cabinet. Rpelaced rear bushing. Replaced 2 front bearings. Reassembled all components
Followed an online website, removed the top, front, two rear access panels, disassembled the spring clip from the rear of the drum, took the belt off of the motor, removed the drum, took the rear bearing support out, replaced the bearing and reassembled the dryer.
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