DLG2 - Instructions

This repair could not have been easier. I went to the web site, answered a few questions and read a few examples of the repair, ordered the parts suggested and in a few days the parts arrived at my home. I opened the top of my dryer with a long handled screw driver, as suggested in the instructions, and vacuumed out the lint around the part. I called my handy son who brought over the correct tools and we followed the instructions sheet that came with the part and repaired my dryer in about 15 minutes total. It works just as it should and I am so happy. I only paid $39.00 including Shipping and Handling to repair my Maytag dryer and it works like new. Thanks to PartSelect.com! I don't think I'll ever call a repair service again.

I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wires connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.

There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.

I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.

Found disassembly video and watched several times. Suspected that one of the drum wheels had seized up. Found extreme volume of lint and hair inside unit as well as a dryer sheet melted on top of heating unit. Front left drum wheel was worn down from lint and hair jamming its movement. Video made it easy, not a really complicated piece of machinery. Replaced all 4 wheels due to normal wear on other three. Wanted to be sure drum evenly balanced on all 4. Parts came quickly and were easy to install. My sister and I did this together. Would not recommend doing it alone. Took time to vac and wipe down entire unit. Now it runs so quiet we have to look to see if it is operating. Got a brand new machine out of it, saved a couple of hundred dollars in repair bills, and found 11 cents inside the machine. For your own piece of mind, if you have had your dryer for several years, you need to open it up and clean it out. Its not hard... added note, we are both in our 60's... so if we can do it so can you.... Such a feeling of accomplishment, can't buy that in a store....

I tested the dryer coils and found that they were getting a voltage but would not open the gas valve. Coils were not bad but weak. After they warmed up they would not open the gas valve. It took 10 min to repace both coils and the heat sensor.

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

Wife wanted a new dryer as it was useless without a knob and tired of using plyers to turn it. Went to internet, entered dryer knob, lead me to your site and item within two minutes. Ordered and received in 2 days. No tools necessary, just pushed it into place. Saved the cost of a new dryer.

1. Removed wires to switch
2. Lifted top panel of Dryer with a screw driver
3. removed two inside screws holding the from panel against the drum.
4. Dropped front panel on the floor and removed door switch.
5. While the door was out, I removed the lint panel attached to the door - two screws.
6. Cleaned the door panel with a vaccum cleaner
7. replaced lint panel onto door with two screws
8. replaced door switch to the front panel
9. placed front panel on to the from of dryer with two screws.
10. Connected wires onto the door switch.
11. Closed top dryer panel and them pressed hard to catch on to metal clips.
12. Attached Dryer cable to electrical outlet
13. Trurned Dryer on and open door as it tumbled to confirm it would stop.
14. Done

Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.

If you were to do the Belt Replacement only, here is the quick synopsis:
1. Unplug dryer;
2a. Open lint door on top of dryer and remove the two phillips head screws that hold the lint bay to the metal dryer top;
2b. Next remove the two brakets holding the metal top to the dryer back (one screw on each bracket);
3. Use a flat-blade screw driver to pry off the top of the dryer (leaving the timer and start button area attached);
4. Lift off top and push back to expose just enough area so you can get to the two screws holding the dryer sides to the dryer front;
5. Unplug door switch;
6. Unscrew screws from #4;
7. With door open, lift dryer front (only about an inch) and then pry bottom of dryer front from dryer sides. The bottom of the dryer front is not screwed, just siting on Front Panel Clips;
8. Once the front is off the dryer, simply remove the belt and install the new one. Please note that while you are in here, you may want to inspect the rear drum seal and replace if it is worn to the point where metal is rubbing on metal. This is also a good time to clean out dust from inside this cavity to help extend the life of the bearings on the rollers and prevent dust from accumulating and gunking up the motor, etc.
9. Re-assemble tin the opposite order.
If you have any mechanical sense at all and you don't know anything about dryers, you will be surprised at the simplicity of the dryer.

I bought the whole dryer filter kit, but turns out I only needed the dryer filter and am very happy about that. No tools necessary I just slid it right in. It fit perfectly and I no longer have anxiety about my clothes coming out ripped.

I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.