DLG2 - Instructions

Repair was easy, remove bottom cover, remove screws that hold coil bracket, remove old coils & slip new ones on & button up. Dryer works fine now.Had the new parts within 3 days. Thanks PartSelect!

The very first thing you want to do is Unplug the Dryer. I then took the two screws out that hold the lint screen to the top of the dryer. Then I used and old butter knife to pry the front top of the machine open. The top is held in place by two plastic clamps. Once I got the top loose I raise it up. Once I had it raised, I pulled up and out on the front panel where the dryer door is. I left the door switch connected and just put the panel off to the right. I then removed the old belt which was lying under the drum. The drum does drop slightly once you take the door off. This was one of the hardest part of the project for me as I did not have any help. This would be much easier if you just have one other person to hold the drum. Anyway, I then placed the new belt around the drum and used my left shoulder / arm to hold up the drum while feeding the belt in the slot on the tensioner and then over the dryer motor pulley. Make sure you don't twist the belt. I originally had a twist and when I hand turned the drum the belt came off the pulley and the tensioner. I had to rethread the belt through the slot on the pulley and then put the belt back on the dryer motor pulley. I then gave the drum a couple complete turns to make sure everything was staying in place. The tensioner on my dryer did not look like the instructions that came with the new belt. My belt tensioner is like a half circle and the belt just rides on it. I think if I had it to do over I would have purchased a new tensioner also. I feel that the belts constant motion against the tensioner probably causes it to wear out faster. Once I made sure evrything was staying on I replaced the front panel that has the door. You just slide the bottom into the slots while holding up on the drum so it lies on the felt padding around the door. Replace all screws and presto. Works like a new Dryer. Make sure you don't forget to plug it back in... Overall it's a pretty easy fix and much less expensive then a service call or purchasing a new Dryer.

The part came in very quickly. If you know how to remove the front panel, it is very easy to repair. The hard part is to diagnose the problem. The first thing to check is the igniter. If it comes on then you look for faulty limit switches. If you have lots of training in electronics and appliance repair this is very easy, if you do not I would not try this. I have 40 years in the repair business, It still took me 1hr. to find the problem. the switch was intermitted, one time the dryer would work the next time it would not. Good luck and happy repairs.

Pushed in the Door Catch, and it was fixed.

Unplug. Remove door and front panel. Unplug two coils. Remove one screw and loosen other on bracket holding coils in place. Slide off coils and replace ( take note one has terminals up and one down). Reassemble.

First I stumbled around on my own trying to figure out the problem then I remembered PartSelect & the info I got to fix the dishwasher. The info given for the dryer pointed to 2 main problems for no heat, tested them with the Ohm meter & ordered the part. We have a dryer again !!

Popped the left and right side clips that hold the top, took out left and right side screws that held front face on, disconnected the wire that went to the door, tilted the door to me and lifted up from tabs on bottom. The old belt was broke, so it was easy to get off. Put the new belt on the drum making sure that the rubber ribs were touching the drum then I put the belt on the tensioner pully and motor pully. I rotated the drum by hand at least 1 full revolution to make sure that the belt was on right and it wasn't twisted, then I put everything back together. Easy 10 minute job... Art

I watched the installation video. It was exactly as shown.

My father and I were deciding on weather or not to purchase a new stove. The stove had always worked well but one of the front burners would not work and the broiler element was cracked in half. I thought I could fix it and save alot of money and not have to purchase a new one. I entered the model # into the search engine from parts select, alot of discontinued parts came up that were unavailable. I then went to search by product and narrowed the selection to brand,size,metal,and category such as electrical. I was given like models that have these parts in common. I was surprised how many parts were available for my stove. I had originaly bought the unit through Montgomery Ward. Admiral, Maytag, and Whirlpool share many of the same parts. From the photos and descriptions I was able to find the correct parts. I purchased a new burner element and a broiler element. Unplug the stove first. The tools needed were a Phillips screwdriver and believe it or not that is it. Two screws held the top of the stove to the main cabinet. After removing these screws from the bottom of the stove top. Note all you have to do to find them is open the door and look under the stove top. The whole stove top swings up and back letting you access the burner elements. Three screws hold the element to the bottom of the stove top. Remove these and note the four electrical wires attached to the burner element. Make sure you mark or notate the location of each wire. Attach the new burner and hook up the wires to it. I put the stove top back down and plugged in the range. The new burner element worked but the switch didn't shut it off. I unplugged the stove and removed the the back plate at the top of the stove. The plate is held on by eight Phillips screws. You only need to take the top back plate off. Don't take the bottom one off. After removing the the plate I could access the switches for each heating element. The left front switch had scorch marks on it, so I knew that it was burned out. Another way is to test the switch with a continuity tester and see if there are any open contacts on the switch. I ordered the switch. It was delivered in two days. I removed the old switch by pulling the knob off the switch and removed one Phillips head screw holding the switch in place. I removed each wire and attached them just as they were attached to the old switch. I ratcheted the switch and plugged the stove in to the outlet and the new burner and switch worked great. I removed the old broiler by taking two Phillips screws out and carefully pulled the old broiler element out. I only pulled the broiler element about four inches from the back of the stove. There are two wires that slide off the broiler element. Remove them but don't let them get pushed back into the holes that they are located in or you will have to take the entire back of the stove off and push them back through there openings. I unfortunately did this and this added time to the repair job. There are two Phillips screws that hold the broiler element holding bar they are located inside the roof of the stove. Remove these screws and slide the old broiler element out. Slide this holder on the new broiler. The holder slides back and fourth on the broiler element so you can position it in the right spot. First attach the electrical connections by sliding on the two wires to the broiler. Push the broiler ends back into there holes and attach them with the two Phillips screws. Next slide the broiler holder on to the broiler element and then position the broiler on the roof of the oven. Attach with the Phillips screws. After doing this I plugged the stove in and turned on the broiler and it works great. There were alot of screws that held the back top plate to the stove and other screws that attached the switch, burner element and broiler element in place, so it would be a good idea to note were these screws are placed. Then there will not be a problem matching