DG18CS Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Thank you very much for your prompt service. This was so cool... On Monday night my wife told me the dryer was not heating. I did a basic diagnosis, checked the internet for parts and lowest price and found your site. I ordered the part I thought I may need and 2 days later the part arrived and the dryer is working again.

Way to go, PartSelect!

Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

I observed that the top of the dryer was affixed by two screws at each front corner. With these removed the top of the dryer could be easily lifted and with the front support panel removed the drum, drive motor and idler pulley could be accessed. This allowed the installation of a new drum belt in a short period of time. Installing the belt from the front lower left hand side proved very difficult for me but with the top raised and coming in from the top it was accomplished in short order. Thank you, Wesley Harmon

Press in the new female latch part with thumbs. Took about two seconds!

I used a flat screw driver to pop out the old female portion and snapped in the new one. Dryer stays shut. That's it!

I pulled the face of the dry off by removing the two screws on the lower face below the door. I pulled the drum out by removing the two bolts holding the drum mounts to the frame. I put the new belt around the drum and remounted it. The access hole on the lower right corner on the back of the appliance allowed me to turn the drum to align the belt (and turn it right side up) with the pulley. It took a moment to figure out how to re-thread the pulley but was able to do it after only a couple of tries. All in all it was quite easy!

I watched the video

Removed the front panel by removing two front screws. Removed screws from front panel holding tumbler drum. Cleaned interior with a vacuum cleaner. (dryer is at least 16 years old). Removed what was left of rivets on damaged glides with a drill, and cleaned area well. Attached new glides with rivet gun, and also applied glue to make glide and cork more secure. Replaced belts, and decided to reverse drum due to damage to drum from allowing glides to deteriorate to the point of putting scratches on the drum itself, allowing the new glides to rest on drum where there was no damage at all. This process was easy, and fast. We did make one error however, in not noticing that with our model, that there were TWO glides to be replaced. Luckily a local repair shop had one more glide so the job could be done the same day. The dryer sounds like it did when it was brand new. Very quiet! The comments from other home repairs helped very much in clairifying any possible errors. Fast delivery of parts, and the extra help was great. Thanks!

Turned off breaker, then unplugged it anyway. I need some room to attack this old dog! Pulled out of its hole beside the washer and went to work. Opps, don't forget the flexible vent, I broke it off about a foot from the dryer. Four screws on back, lower right to remove acccess panel. Next two screws under front panel, pull bottom out about a foot and it unclips at top. Read the 5 repair stories about replacing the motor as I took everything apart, all were helpful. Had to put motor in a vise to loosen set screw on pulley, lucky I had a 3/16 allen socket, that was the only hard part, unless you count getting screws out from under the freezer where I kicked them. Be careful. Still ended up with belt in v-groove on back part of drum (where it does NOT go) so had to reach in from front and pull it out about 4 or 5 inches. Things a quiet now and I am a hero around here. Thanks for the good help fellows.

Found step by step instructions on your website, they were posted by another do-it-yourselfer. The exact make of dryer that I have, and the drawings with part numbers listed was quite helpful. The bad motor came out easy enough and the new one was just like the old so it fit right into place. Strung a new belt around the tumbler drum and dryer is just like NEW. Thank you so much. Probably saved a couple hundred dollars.

I did it the hard way from the back by removing the motor. The easy way is from the front. From the front there are 2 screws about 5 inches above the floor. Also, remove the 4 screws in the tumbler behind the lent filter. Swing out the front panel from the bottom and it will release at the top. Remove 2 screws on left and right side of the front tumbler cover. It will come out now and you can get to the blower wheel which in my case was just spinning on the motor shaft.

After taking one last look through the access port prior to ripping the back off the dryer in order to access the heat exchanger fuse, I noticed I had inadvertantly un-plugged the gas solenoid. I reapplied the plugs to the solenoid and, voila, I had flame.

I am thankful to know I have a source in case I encounter other appliance problems, though. This one was a no-brainer but the next one might be more difficult. Thank you.

If I had waited until I reviewed the pack-up date that came with the part, the disassembly would have gone much faster. The part arrived in record time, several days before anticipated. Outstanding website, parts and repair experience!

Turned out to be the primary coil on the gas valve. If you remove the cover of the coils and wait for the dryer to try to start the flame the coils are energized, a magnet is turned on. By lifting the coil you should feel the magnet if the flame is on. If the flame does not come on after the ignitor fires check to see if the coils are energized. If not buy the set, it's cheaper then purchasing them separately.

Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.