D156B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!

Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.

I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.

I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.

To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.

Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............

It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select

- the fan/light switch was still functioning, but it fell into the cavity underneath, after years of use, heat and grease caused it to weaken.
- 4 wires came off the old switch, and went on the new one with ease.
- the only complication was in getting the clips off of the old ones, and getting the new clips onto the new one. otherwise, a piece of cake.

First we removed the two screws that hold the element in place. After pulling it from the back of the oven we did not realize that the clips that held the wires could be slipped off the 'tongues' of the element. Therefor we thought we had to cut the wires - which we did. After realizing that the clips came off, we went to the store and bought a box of new clips, stripped a small portion of the plastic on the wire to expose the wire and put it in the new clips and crimped them. Then slipped the new clips onto the new element, replaced it and put the old screws back. You wouldn't need to buy new clips (not expensive) if you know ahead that they can be removed from the old element and slipped onto the new one. We were amazed at how quickly the element arrived in the mail. Have bookmarked this sight for future repairs.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

First I removed the four torx screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Then I installed the new element in reverse order. Recycled the cardboard box and the old element.

The hardest part of the repair was getting the old cruddy screws out of the old element. They were sort of "baked-in". Once we got the screws out the rest was really easy. Just inserted the element prongs & screwed the new ones in. Ordering & receiving the part was a snap...I would recommend your company to anyone. Thank you.

remove two screws, pull out element, diconnect two wires, toss old element,plug in wires to new element, replace two screws and viola- done

Now if you just sold faucet parts I'd be all set.

The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.

Replace filter

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Unplugged and removed the old grill element by hand and installed the replacement element by plugging it into the socket. Tools were not required for this and it took less than five minutes. The new element is great and heats much better than the original did before it broke.