CDE850 - Instructions

Removed fan housing from under stove and replaced motor. Biggest job was cleaning the fan housing as a lot of kitchen grease had accmulated of the life of the stove.

Replaced receptacle but it was not the problem. After further inspection I believe that the problem is the switch. The switch is on order now from Part Select.

take door off. remove screws holding door together, take door apart. remove worn seal. install new seal. reposition insulation and door window at the appropriate location. begin re-assembling door in reverse order making sure that apprpriate pressure is applied to keep the seal in place. re-attach door to hinges. project worked out well. new seal looks great. would have been a costly repair if I called a professional. I'm handy, but things like this are often hard the first time. you have to take your time and be cognizant of putting it back together the way you took it apart.

part came quickly and fit perfect... everything works great...pretty simple repair... nice to have the right part and have it arrive so quickly

Removed the top cover, unplugged the wires on the element, removed bolt holding the element in place. Replacement took about Fifteen minutes to complete.

First, I made sure the circuit breaker was off to the oven. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place , pulled the element out a few inches and eased the wires apart at the metal connectors. I eased in the new wires, put the two screws back in, and voila. In under five minutes, the oven was fixed.

After disconnecting power, I popped the lid open by grabbing it on the front sides. Swinging the lid completely back and out of the way, I disconnected the wires from the thermostat. Removing a few screws, the thermostat and the heating element were removed. Reverse the steps and that's it. Very easy repair and now the dryer is like new. While opened, I did take advantage and cleaned all of the lint from the exhaust passages.

My wife's dryer started squeaking very high pitched, intermittently and then continuously when running. It progressed to a loud shrieking, unbearable throughout the house. Make sure you unplug the dryer. First I replaced the Drum glide and cushion kit. This was easy to do. Pry open the top of the dryer open with a screwdrive or putty knife. Now reach in and remove the retaining screws holding the front panel against the side panels. After releasing the front panel, let it fall forward about 4 inches and then unplug the two wire connected to the door closed sensor. Now carefully slide the thin belt towards the back of the dryer, it will release eventually as it is pulled off the pulley (dont worry, getting it back on is not that hard). Now you can remove the drum. After removing the drum, there are two tan or bluse plastic drum glides that the fron of the drum rests on. They can be worn out along with the cushion beneath them. Replace them with new one. This actually did NOT fix the problem. I put everything back together and....SQUEAK!! Next I undid everything as before and removed the drum. Now I decided to lubricate the rear rollers. First I used a silicone lubricant that again did not fix the problem. I could not find hi-temp lubricant, so I decided to use Axle grease. Bingo...no more squeak. To lubricate the rollers, remove the retaining clip and pull the wheel off. I put an even thin coat on the post they rest on and the inside hole of the wheel. Replace them and remember to put the retaining clip back on. Now replace the belt onto the metal pulley first, with the threaded side of the belt down towards the drive shaft, it should loop around the drive shaft and then you can pull it around the drum, slowly feedingthe drum farther and pulling the belt back along the drom. The smooth side of the belt should be on top of the drum. Now you have to reach back under the drum on the bottom right corner below the lint trap and pull the belt over the tensioner. Sounds harder than it is. Volia...that should fix it. Its been 3 days of non-stop laundry since the repair and no squeak. Next time I will purchase the replacement roller package, but this worked for now. Good luck.

I replaced the hinges as described in other posts and the problem was solved. When the oven was 2 years old it had the same problem but the hinges should not have fatigued at that point. The engineering problem someone mentioned is that the pin of the light switch is too short. I touched it with lipstick, closed the oven door, and opened the door to see exactly where the door touched the pin. I drilled a small hole in the door and screwed in a self tapping metal screw...problem solved for 8 years until the hinges fatigued. After replacing the hinges I tried removing the screw but the light stayed on so I put the screw back.

Had to disassemble the top of the stove and the control panel on the front. I took digital pictures as I disassembled so I could refer to them when putting the stove back together, especially when disconnecting wiring. It took about 3 hours, but most of that time was spent thoroughly cleaning 16 years of baked on grease from places that are normally unaccessible. The new latch works great - the wife is happy!

Just removed the broken vent cover.
Injected foaming sealant.
Pushed on the vent cover plate.
Screwed it in place.
More foaming sealant.
Clipped on the flapper and secured the cover.

This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner sprung to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..

I have bought several drip bowls over the years. They all seemed to not fit just right. These are perfect! Thanks!

First I disconnected the power cord. Next the top of the dryer was easily popped upen with a screw driver by inserting it between the top panel and the front door panel. I removed the two sheet metal screws that held the door panel on the upper right and left sides. The door panel was easily lifted up and out and set it to the side (the door switch can stay connected, the wire is long enough). d I pulled the drum out from off of the rollers that hold the drum in place. No need to remove the belt, it stays in place. I reached through the drum and removed the two hex-head screws that held the roller in place ( I only replaced the left one) and added the new one. I pushed the drum back in place over the rollers (it snaps in place). I propped the drum up with a short screw driver to raise it off of the right and left drum glides (on the bottom). I replaced the felt pads and the plastic glides and set the drum back in place. I also replaced the felt ring (seal) that circles the door opening that the drum also glides on. I glued it in place in spots (with gasket glue). It folds back over itself and forms a double thick pad. You will see what I mean when you see how the old one looks. I replaced the front door panel and snapped the top panel back in place. I let the dryer set over night so the glue would set up. I turned it on the next morning and it is as quiet now as when it was new. Oh ...Jay (the husband) did the work not Jean the wife (her dryer, her credit card)

Quick note: I saved over thirty dollars using partselect over the actuall Maytag store parts dept and they still had to order the part to be delivered in 4-5 days. First I pryed the top off of clips in front then removed the screws that hold the element into place, removed the therostat bracket held in by one screw and disconnected wire clips (after labeling the wires) and removed the thermostat from bracket by two screws then disconnected the element wires and slid the old element out. Reversed the process to reinstall the new parts.