CDE850 - Instructions

i just ordered the part and replaced it with stainless steel. i am so glad the saleslady told me about it. my stove looks brand new. my drip pans look so nice with my new cover.

The frame and window were supplied as a completed assembly. About 4 other panels had to be removed prior to installing the new window assembly. This was easy to do with a screwdriver removing about 16 screws and then replacing all panels back in place after replacing the new window assembly. No instructions were supplied with the part, but anyone with a little mechanical abillity could do it. You may need a helper to hold panels in place while they were being screwed back in place. Total job took about one hour

First off, the parts were exactly what I needed and arrived at my front door in less than 48 hours.
The repair was quite easy. 1. access the "guts" by popping the two clipps and open top panel like a car hood.2. remove the high temp doohickie with a nut driver, one screw, two wires.3. Remove the heating element from its mount. 4. remove the high temp fuse doohickie, By popping off its wires and little retaining bracket. 5. do steps (in this order) 5-1 replacing new parts. 6. spend three hours looking for the dryer brush, you know you have somewhere, to clean 5 years of accumulated lint out of the lint trap.7. drive to Ace, by dryer brush. 8. (most important step) clean the lint trap, or be forced to repeat steps 1-5. 9. Pop a cold one and relish the peace and quiet, devoid of spousal nagging to fix the damn dryer. 10. Take down clothesline in backyard.

0. Opened packaged and receipt verified the parts against the drawing and packing slip.
1. Disconnected dryer from power source by pulling the plug.
2. Removed the two screws (philips) on left and right side of the main frame to allow access to the blower assembly.
3. (Optional)Verified power dead at the circuitry near the blower wheel assembly (former navy electrician- "check it dead").
4. Removed the two screws at the base of the wheel cover using the screw driver (philips). The other screws on the assembly cover required the use of a 1/4" nut driver.
5. Opened the assembly, and with a flathead, pried the Retaining Omega ring, and removed the damaged wheel (broken vanes and missing straight end of the center ring) and disposed.
6. Inserted the new wheel on the shaft and was able to manually do it until about 3/4 of the way; to get it fully insert it, tap it with a mallet (tap the center of the wheel and avoid the blades).
7. Insert the retaining ring and operationally test it by manually rotating the tumbler and verifying the blower wheel moves freely and without noises.
8. (Optional) Vacuumed the lint and dust from the wheel assembly, the filter and exhaust line (found several broken pieces of vanes there). Inspected heater assembly for obvious signs of damage
9. Re-installed the assembly cover and the main cover back to the frame
10. Reconnected the plug to outlet and tested by a starting a 10 minutes cycle- no noise and constant flow of air.
11. Smoked a Motecristo Churchill as I grilled the steaks and pondered the greatness of the free market.

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Turned off power.

Removed two screws to free up section of cooktop containing 4 switches - 2 good, 2 damaged. Removed the dials from top of the 2 damaged switches. With an adjustable wrench, loosed nut on stem of switch that fastened switch to assembly. Noted which of the 5 wires on each switch went on which tab. Pulled off 5 wires on one switch, finished removing the nut and removed broken switch. Put in new switch, attached the nut, and replaced 5 wires in exactly the same position, Tightened nut. Replaced dial. Repeated procedure for second switch. Placed section containing the 4 switches back on cooktop and inserted/tighted 2 screws holding it in place.

Turned on power.

Told cleaning people to NEVER put aluminum foil under the burner units again. The foil shorted across the power and damaged the switches.

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.

First step is turn the power to the range off. Then I removed the grate covering the down draft vent in the center of the cook top. Inside the vent opening are two screws that secure a panel that holds the four knobs that control temperature settings. Remove these screws. Slide the panel tward the back of the range while lifting it up. This will allow removal of the panel. Remove the knob from the burner control you are replacing. Under the knob are two screws. Remove the screws and let the controller drop out of the cover panel. Take the new switch and carefully remove the wires from the old controller and place them on the new controller in the same position. When the wires have been connected, put the controller back in the control panes and secure it with the two screws. Replace the panel back into the cook top. Tilt the control panel so the front is low and the back is elevted. Engage the lugs protuding out on each side of the control panel opening. Lower the panel back into the opening and secure it with the two remaining screws. Replace the control knob and you are done. You just saved yourself a $125.00 service call. Total cost for the controller $35.00.

Very easy repair. Just needed to remove some screws to access the heating element area. The fuses are (1) just above the elements and (2) to the right side of them (if facing from the front). Alittle loosening with a philips screwdriver, removing blown fuses, replace with new fuses, tighten new fuses in place, replace outer screws and job done. Also made sure to fully clean lint collection area. I had a good amount stuck in there and it restricted air flow which caused the fuses to blow. It took 6 years worth of drying to make it happen.

Removed the door then the end caps and inner panel then the hinge system and replaced with the one piece new set of hinges and back together done in 30 to 45 minutes The new parts were a perfect replacement.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.

Unscrewed the two fasteners, rerouted one wire using a wire coat hanger, plugged in the new moisture sensor to the two wires and fastened the the sensor in place using the two existing screws.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

We panicked cause even simple repairs on these products cost and cost.....but we remained calm and ordered the exact part necessary from you. It arrived in just 3 days and once we had the part in hand it was easy to understand how to replace it. We disassembled the door with screwdrive and swapped the broken part with the new one. The one gotcha was that we were not aware of the shipping pin holding the spring and we struggled for a few trying to get the door closed all the way. Once we discovered the pin and removed it, it was fixed and we were PLEASED!

Thank you,
Louise and Rickl