Models > CAV1004AWW > Instructions

CAV1004AWW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for CAV1004AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CAV1004AWW
31-45 of 353
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Bearings on the water pump self-destructed.

  • Customer: Richard from San Antonio TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I tipped the washing machine back to allow me access to the bottom of the washing machine to remove the belt from the water pump. After removing the belt, I righted the machine, unscrewed the three screws holding the rear access panel on. I used pliers to remove the clamps from the inlet and outlet hoses then removed the hoses. I removed three screws holding the water pump on to the bottom panel of the washing machine. I removed the pump and replaced it with the new pump. I then reinstalled the screws, the hoses, the clamps, the access panel, and the belt. I plugged the washer back in and - viola! It works again.

Intermittent problem with lid switch, no high speed spin/pump out

  • Customer: Linda from La Porte IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnect power, unsnap and raise machine top cover w/lid, remove old switch - two screws under lid, taking care to not drop loose actuator lever into machine. Remove control panel back and disconnect switch wire connector. Intall new switch, taking care to not drop loose actuator lever into machine, connect switch wires inside control panel. Replace panel cover and lower machine top cover w/lid and snap into place, reconnect power, verify operation...

loud hi pitched squeeling noise all the time.

  • Customer: Patrick from Accord NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Remove front panel and back service panel below water conn. lines. Put a 4" plastic box between the tub and inside of cabinet "directly opposite the spring to be removed to lower the tub to base for less opposing travel to unlatch spring from tub hook. Also took an old slotted screw driver w/ a blade about 1/4 " and grinded 1/8 from middle about an1/8" deep and used it to latch the spring when pushing it up and off the tub. Replaced all 6. Also did motor pivot spring. Tested and the it worked for one cycle, then the tub again just falls to the right as if the spring at 9 o'clock was broke and strains the belt drive but the spin cycle still works o.k. and the washer does not bang and walk away till you stop the machine. Thought the 6 tub springs would take care of both problems. Told that the snubber ring needs to be replaced. Never but another maytag again. JUst did the belt,a week later the water pump went then the springs.....

Washing machine sqeeling to a stop after spin cycle

  • Customer: William from Middletown OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
By sliding the machine out away from the wall I tipped it back so that it set against the wall on an angle enough for me to work on the bottom. I removed the belt and drive pully. The brake stator can be removed from the bottom if drum is centered. The brake is under pressure from a big spring in there that applies the brake. Replacing three of its mounting screws with longer ones (10-24 x 2) allows you to let pressure off of the brake spring slowly. Replaced brake rotor and stator and compressed spring with long screws as in removal. Replaced all original screws to hold in place. Installed pulley and belt. Works like brand new, all for about $30. I bought the snubber also but did not realize that this is not part of the brake. I little confusing on the parts drawing.

Washer leaked entire load of water on the floor.

  • Customer: Kevin from Wilton CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
These gaskets and seals were relatively easy to get to. I replaced all 3. Put machine back together, but washer still leaked. I ended up having to remove more components down along the center shaft towards the transmission. I found that the "tub seal" was worn out. I also replaced the "seal nut assembly" and "O-ring" while I was at it. The seal nut and tub seal were more difficult to remove without the proper tool, but a bigger rubber mallet and strategically placed pliers were enough to break them loose. Once all parts showed up the washer went back together easily and it is now leak-free.

Loud noise during the spin cycle

  • Customer: John M from Saint Paul IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 20 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
Repair was made by viewing on line video and owners manual. Once the machine was apart, the brake spring was the only tricky patr. Under a lot of pressure so be cautious. old bearing was removed and the new bearing installed. Machine reassembled. no issues.Thanks !!!

Machine started making loud squeak, then completely stopped after a couple more cycles.

  • Customer: Robert from Apopka FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I tilted machine onto the front to acces the rear panel. i removed the three screws to expose pump, took of the drive belt located under appliance, removed the three pump screws and removed old defective pump. I installed new pump, put the drive belt back on, reinstalled back panel and screws, hooked the appliance up and started. Been running great ever since. Entire process too about 10 min.

High pitched screech from brake at end of spin cycles.

  • Customer: William from Lithia FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I disconnected and moved the washer into the garage for optimum work space. Then I opened the top panel (by releasing the two retainer clips between the top and front panels with a putty knife inserted approx 2" in from each side) and taped a spacer block between the back of the tub and the back panel of the washer, to keep the tub from moving toward the back when the washer is tilted.

Then I tilted the washer back against my 2 1/2' high workmate bench (backstopped against the wall). After adjusting the tilt angle to provide adequate access to the bottom of the washer and insure it was was beyond the forward center of gravity, I began the repair.

Working from the bottom, I first removed the drive belt. Then the white dust cap, shaft retaining ring, plastic cam, pulley, and the various washers and bearings leading up to the brake assembly, making note of their order.

Then I removed three of the six 1/2" 10x24 brake stator retaining screws at alternating positions replacing each with one of the three 2" 10x24 screws I had previously purchased the hardware store. Then I removed the three remaining 1/2" screws, and slowly began to remove the three 2" screws alternating a few turns on each in rotation to evenly ease the 200 pounds of pressure from the brake rotor spring.

When the pressure was released, I removed the old brake stator and rotor and placed the new ones on the shaft, then re-compresed the brake rotor spring with the three 2" screws in alternating positions. Then placed three of the original 1/2" screws in the threee open positions, then replaced the three 2" screws with the remaining three 1/2" screws.

Then I reinstalled the remainder ot the parts in reverse order of removal.

Washer was shaking and noisy, wasn't spining fast and overall running poor.

  • Customer: joseph from columbus OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part of this is the springs. The best way to disconnect and reconnect was to tilt the tub towards the spring I was trying to work on (thus putting less tension on the spring and cutting down the distance). I took a large boot and jammed it into the oposite side wall to hold it in a tilted position before I disconnected the spring and then redid that to reconnect using a vice grip wrench. I replaced all three things, snubber, brake roto and stator and it went back together very easily. The key on the pully shaft was hard to reattach but there was a trick to that as well. The shaft has to move up slightly to slide ring on so you need to have something under the tub to help raise it. After that was back together it was 15 mins. to finish and now the washer is running like new.

drive belt was squealing and slipping

  • Customer: Kevin from North Plains OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I wasted time opening up the metal container for the washing machine, which was easier than expected. The top simply pops off with a little bit of prying with a screwdriver, then the front panel is held in place with two sheet metal screws. The front panel then lifts off and you can see the exterior case for the tub drive mechanism and motor. But, it wasn't obvious what was wrong until I tilted the entire unit backwards and saw the drive belt available directly under the machine and fully accessible without any tools. It was obvious, because there was a 1/8" worth of belt fragment dust under the machine. A new belt was all it needed and after I ordered it from PartSelect, I simply jimmied the old belt off the main pulley and put the new one on. It no longer squeals or slips. Hopefully, I gained another 5 years of life out of the washing machine.

Washing machine beat itself to death during spin cycle

  • Customer: John from Cumberland MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front cabinet, removed 6 springs holding tub down, removed pump hose, removed drive belt from motor,lifted tub out the top and placed upside down, loosened all six hex bolts(did not loosen or remove drive pulley) backed all six bolts out and left 4 threads showing, slipped old snubber out cleaned all surfaces with alchohol and slid new snubber in. Put corn starch on base where snubber rides, lifted tub back in, hooked up all six tension springs with auto brake tool.put belt back on...done..no more beating itself to death.

Washer leaked water on the floor. Seal nut assembly rubber and o-ring were worn out.

  • Customer: Kevin from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.

The motor ovrheated,

  • Customer: Dennis from Merritt Island FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I took the front pannel off just 2 scrwe was holdig the pannel,the motor was in ftont,4 bolt was holdig the moto,and it is very easy to change,

Noise during spin cycle

  • Customer: CHERYL from HUDSON NH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Noise loudest during spin cycle. Wash cycle showed transmission was ok. Pump shaft loose in housing. Fix was just as described. Tip washer up, lift belt from pulley on pump. Remove rear panel access. Remove hoses. Un-bolt pump. New pump does not have metal base plate, it fits directly to base of washer. Bolt new pump to base in same orientation, attach hoses, tip washer up and slide belt back on to pulleys. Move belt by hand to check function. Reconnect washer to utilities and begin fill. Check for leaks at hoses. Replace rear panel cover.

WASHER SHAKES AND DANCES

  • Customer: Adrian from West New York NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
NO NEED TO BUY A BRAKE WRENCH NOR THE EXPENSIVE SPRING REMOVER.
ONCE THE DRUM IS OUT THE WASHER TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN AND LOOSE THE SCREWS HOLDING THE TRANSMISSION ABOUT A LITTLE MORE THAN HALF WAY, TO GIVE THE NEW SNUBBER ENOUGH ROOM TO FIT IN, THEM TIGH AND ASSAMBLE EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER
All Instructions for the CAV1004AWW
31-45 of 353