BX22S5W (P1196701W W) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed all the screws with the exception of the top row, these I just loosend.I made sure how the old one was installed before I removed it.I then used a hair dryer on the new one briefly to take out the shipping kinks.I removed the old one and put the new one in with a little adjusting as i went. I then put all the screws back in,adjusted it a little more and finished by snuging up all the screws.It was very easy and works like new.

I hired someone to do this, but after watching him do it, this is an easy job. Amana made a smart refrigerator and it's easy to do your self. I saved a LOT of money buying the parts here and I should have attempted it myself. The trick is heating up the gasket once it was mounted and then when you had a tight seal to the door, tape the door shut and LEAVE it as many hours as you can (minimum of 4, but overnight better).

Pop loose the plastic grate at the bottom.

Locate and remove the wheel leveling screw from the front bottom corner.

Remove cotter pin from the pin that mounts the wheel assembly to the refrigerator. Tap out the mounting pin.

Lift out the wheel assembly.

Remove the Roller pin from the wheel assembly. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. A hack saw will also probably work.

Install the new roller pin and wheel into the wheel assembly. Use a hammer or vice to peen over the end of the roller pin.

Reinstall and adjust wheel assembly.

I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98.
So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.

Removed the hinge cover, removed three hinge screws, removed door. Then I used a screwdriver to pry out the hinge bushings, pushed the new ones in and replaced the door. Both Maytag and Lowe's (who held the extended warranty) said that the door was not a repairable item and would have to replace the whole door. Since that would cost more than the value of the fridge, they voided the warranty and returned my cost. Too bad we didn't know about Part Select, we would have held their feet to the fire.

Turn freezer section control wheel off, unplug unit. Then remove all items/baskets from freezer to allow access. Use nut driver to unscrew 3 screws on control plastic housing. Drop down housing from top and unplug wires (note correct locations) from control wheel switch. Remove screws and ground wire from metal backing plate to plastic housing. Push or pry the 2 metal holdtabs down carefully to allow the 2 plastic housing tab fingers to be pushed inwards to seperate metal plate from housing. Pry control wheel off from switch arm with screwdriver. Remove switch and replace with new one.
Use the reverse order of removal above to replace into freezer but use caution when replacing wheel onto switch arm and plugging in wires. Remember to carefully pry the 2 metal tabs back up to secure the plastic finger tabs in place.
Job done.

1st remove the gasket from the packaging & let it get to room temperature . 2nd use a hair dryer to get it in shape . 3rd cut out a piece of the box that the door gasket was delivered in to cover the freezer opening after you remove the door,4th(remove the door by removing the bottom hinge) 5th put the door on a table to remove the old gasket with a screw gun,(now is a good time to clean the door up) after the old gasket & panel was removed I found the insulation inside the door panel frozen solid so I replaced it .If you don't replace this fiberglass insulation or a least try to thaw it out you defeat the purpose of the doors insulations R value. 6th replace the gasket (replace the gasket the same way that you removed it) 7th put the door back on the freezer.You don't have to remove the freezer door to do this job but it makes a much neater job & a better seal when the door is closed. This isn't the 1st door gasket I replaced so I kind of knew what I was doing.Good Luck

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

1. Removed the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.

While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.

First step, call the repair man. He listened, and then said to get a new refrigerator, since this one is 28 years old and the repairs could amount to a significant part of the price to buy new. Even if he fixed this, it could develop other problems, yada. So we went out to buy and discovered nothing suitable that would fit in that slot of our kitchen! We'd need new counter top and cabinets to fix this problem! So we went to the Internet and searched to find the likely source of the problem and the parts schematic at PartsSelect.com. Yah! We ordered the part, and then found we had no idea how to install it. Sooo, back to the Internet, and eventually got some good clues - it goes in the kick space under the front, and just plugs in, once you can get to it by removing the bracket that holds it. Working underneath a refrigerator is not complicated but it's awkward. The form of the new timer was not exactly the same, but it does function correctly. We have no experience whatsoever with appliance repair, so pretty amazed at our success. This old Amana looks very good inside and out and is now working perfectly again. If it lasts a few more years, we will be thrilled to have spent $15 to save $500. We can always buy new later on.

Unplug
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels

Research on the internet showed the problem was either the defrost thermostat or the defrost timer. I decided to replace both.

1. Emptied the freezer into an ice chest

2. Removed shelves, some of which were held in with screws.

3. Removed freezer back panel.

4. Replaced freezer thermostat, very simple, one clip and two wires.

5 Replaced all removed parts. Put food back in freezer

6. Removed and replaced defrost timer from underneath front of fridge, screws were awkward to reach.

7 No more heat around outside of freezer

I removed the panel in the back of the freezer and found the evaporator to be a complete block of ice. I defrosted it with a hairdryer. Following advice from the Partselect web site, I measured the resistance through the defrost heater. It was about 30 ohms, so I decided that it was OK. Next, I advanced the defrost timer manually with the compressor on until it turned off. The defrost heater did not operate. I concluded that the problem was the defrost thermostat. After installing it, the freezer worked properly.

simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!