Models > BX22S5W (P1196701W W) > Instructions

BX22S5W (P1196701W W) Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for BX22S5W parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the BX22S5W
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Sometimes the condenser fan would start causing the refrigerator to overheat.

  • Customer: Tom from Franklin WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 83 of 86 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the appliance.
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new

freezer door gasket needed replacing

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Palo Alto CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 80 of 94 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug refrigerator. Open freezer door. Lift the old gasket from the edge closest to the center of the door to expose the hex-head screws. Get a nut driver the appropriate size (1/4" if I remember) and loosen, but do not remove all of the screws. Once loosened, the old gasket can be removed. Slip the new gasket in just like the old one was. Lift the edges closest to the center of the door and tighten the screws. Test the fit of the new gasket by closing the door and sighting carefully down each of the four seal lines. Typically there will be spots where there are gaps, that is, the gasket is not "pulled out" enough to contact the refrigerator body. This is due to kinks that occur to the gasket during shipping. A paper that comes with the gasket notes the effect and recommends using a hair dryer to remove the kinks. Although the recommendation is to use the dryer BEFORE putting the gasket on, I used the dryer after, when I could see exactly where the gaps were. After noting the spots, open the door and with the dryer on HIGH setting, wave the hot air stream back and forth for a minute or two on each spot. Pull each spot out by hand with the hot air off and if/when the gasket is cool enough to touch but still warm. Close the door, inspect and repeat the process if necessary. I was able to achieve a good seal all the way around this way.

Frig was hot freezer was cold. Freezer was fronzen over.

  • Customer: James from Canyon Country CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 58 of 59 people found this instruction helpful
The frig was hot but the freezer was cold. I opened the back of the freezer and found the condenser all frozen over. Upon inspecting the defrost thermostat I found that it was split open, as if water got into it and the froze breaking it open. I used a blow dryer to defrost the condenser. I then spent a long time trying to find the model on-line, even the manufactor said it did not exist. Partselect.com was the only place that said the model did exist. When that part came in I toke the back of the freezer out again. Unplugged the defrost thermostat plugged the new one in clipped it back on the condenser and put the it all back together. Everything is working fine now.

Fridge and freezer didn't cool enough

  • Customer: Peter from Eden UT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 61 of 68 people found this instruction helpful
I diagnosed the problem via the internet. Diagrams helped a lot. Coils were frozen over. Thawed them out overnight. Manually advanced timer and the defrost heater was operable. The defrost timer wasn't "turning" on it's own. I turned the fridge back on while I awaited the part. It worked fine for the time I had to wait. (over two weeks since I had delayed ordering the part) New timer arrived as promised. Undid 4 hex head (1/4") screws. Unplugged 4 prong connection. Plugged in new timer and replaced the 4 screws. Frigde works great.

freezer defrost failure - ice up - temperature rise

  • Customer: Robert from San Jose CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 38 of 44 people found this instruction helpful
After replacing the defrost timer (easy: pop off the grill; unscsrew the bracket; pull out the old one and plug in the new one) [didn't fix problem] and replacing the defrost heater element (harder: use nut driver to remove ice maker and rear interior panel in freezer section; use pliers to remove clips holding the heater element to evap coil CAREFULLY - puncture evap coil and unit is junk!!! - replace with new heater element)[didn't fix problem] I replaced the defrost thermostat:
moderate difficutly. Use nut driver (5/16") to remove ice maker (loosen screws and slde IM up and off) and rear interior panel (don't need to pop the ice maker electrical connector off the rear panel) and unclip the thermostat from the evap coil. Replace with good thermostat and enjoy your "self defrost" freezer/fridge for another fefw years.

Refrigerator keeps running and will not turn off automatically.

  • Customer: Robert from Danville CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 32 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Mine is a top refrigerator and bottom freezer. Whenever working with electrical applicances always disconnect the electrical power before beginning work on it. Never try to force anything. If there is abnormal resistance, use logic and determine if there is an obstable that needs to be dealt with. Loosen all screws halfway then take them off completely. Replace all screws part way and begin by inserting and starting the screws by hand then use the nut dreiver and last tighten until snug. Also, be ware that wires can get brittle and may break so handle them with care. The wires and other parts may have been frozen and defrosted many times over the life of the refrigerator. Have a flash light or other light source so you see everything well. The light will be off because you disconnected the electrical cord.

First check the defrost timer. On my unit it is located in the bottom front corner behind the removable ventilation grill. Remove about 4 hex screws. Its most useful to use a nut driver (looks like a screw driver but the tip fits different hex screws. To check the defrost timer you can turn the orange/red knob to the right and see if you can advance the timet to turn on the defrost cycle. If this works then the problem is not the defrost timer. I changed my defrost time anyway not that it was broken.

To replace the defrost thermostat, remove the food and shelves from the freezer. Use the hex nut driver and remove the hex screws from the back panel of the freezer section. If needed you will need to remove the ice maker. I don't have an ice maker. Once the back panel is removed you will see some coils, wires and other parts. Disconnect the two wires for the defrost thermostat, you can identify the defrost timer because you purchased one on-line. Carefully remove the defrost thermostat which is attached by a tension clip. The ends of the wires (terminals) may not be the same style. If needed cut the wire terminal plus two inches of excess wire from the old defrost thermostat and splice it to the new defrost thermostat. If you have a soldering iron, solder it, if not use a wire nut and electrical tape or just twist the wires together and cover with two layers of electrical tape. Now, attach the wire terminals of the new defrost thermostat to the wires that you disconnect earlier. You can not mix them up because the ends are different. Pull the tension clip slightly apart and slip onto the tubing where it came off of originally. Replace the back cover and air grill and fasten the hex screws. Attach the ice maker if you have one. Replace the shelves and food and close the freezer door. Plug in the refrigerator. It may not go on immediately. If this is the case, go to the defrost timer and turn the orange/red knob to the right and you will cycle the defrost timer to activate the freezer. Let the refrigerator run for a while, even a few hours is okay, and then it will hopefully go into the normal automatic cycle.

Other parts that may go bad and need replacing are the condenser fan that you will find by removing the cover in the back of the refrigerator. This fan runs when the refrigerator is on to cool the compressor. Also a heater coil is used to defrost the freezer. Infrequently, this part goes bad.

There is no separate cooling unit for the refrigerator compartment of the refrigerator. The cold air for both the refrigerator compartment and freezer compartment originate from the freezer. The temperature dial in the refrigerator compartment regulates the amount of cold air from the freezer that will circulate to the refrigerator.
(This just give you a clue that if the refrigerator compartment is warm the problem will still concern the freezer.)

Also, please clean off the coils that are covered with dust and webs.

This is a brief summary and depending on your level of experience and general logic and problem solving skills. This repair may or may not be easily understood. One last tip,

Refrigerator was warm, freezer was cold.

  • Customer: Michael from Davis Junction IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 26 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the shelves from the freezer. I unscrewed 6 screws with a 1/4" nut driver and removed the back panel. The coil was solid ice because the defrost cycle wasn't working. I thawed the ice with a hairdryer (5 minutes), unplugged the thermostat and installed the new one (it simply clipped on to the coils), and reassembled the back panel and installed the shelves. Total time, about 14 minutes. Total cost, less than $20.00. I can't even get an appliance repairman to show up at my door for less than $100.00! Thanks to your website, I was able to diagnose my problem, order the correct part and fix it myself! (I bookmarked your site under my favorites). Thanks for this great consumer service. It's easy, inexpensive and quick to do it yourself!

Gaskets deformed, leaking

  • Customer: david from Creve Coeur MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
The pro's esimate was over $500 for this one... It's very helpful to have a power tool screwdriver/nut driver. Loosen up the screws (#8 x 1/2" hex-head screws on mine) which hold the gasket in place. These screws also hold the plastic inner-portion of the refrigerator door in place. On my fridge, the parts of the gasket at the top and bottom closest to the hinge had progressively become deformed, perhaps because the outer part of the plastic was not holding the gasket in place hard enough (in these locations, I improved the clamping action by removing the screw and adding a #10 washer). In many locations, the screws turned out to have been driven in hard enough to strip the metal, so a hardware store run was needed to purchase #10 x 1/2" screws - be warned. Before trying to mount the gasket, I worked it over with a hairdryer on the floor (used an old towel to protect floor), to get out the worst of the kinks, then mounted it on the door, tucking the bead between the inner and outer door all the way around. This can be hard enough that if you do have a power tool nut driver, it may be preferable to completely remove the inner door portion, mount the gasket, then screw it back in place. Once the screws are tightened, use the hairdryer to soften the areas which don't contact properly, working on the gasket with your fingers and/or by repeatedly opening and closing the door, until you have smooth contact all the way around. I did not remove the doors completely, simply stowed the freezer compartment stuff in an ice chest, and used cardboard to close the main refrigerator compartment.

noisy fan motor

  • Customer: robert from nashotah WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
rmv panel (5min) rmv fan/motor 3 screws (10 m) cut wire 2in from motor, re route remainder of wire to front so can strip for wire nuts. ( 10m) attach old fan to new motor, place in old opening ,3 screws, a little fussy to align, ( 15m ) route and strip wire from new motor , zip ties work well, wire nuts , plug in fridge vola, no noise, close up, reverse panel. ( 20m). i also took time to clean grilles with small vac and damp rag, ( looks and sounds like new) bob Wi.

broken support post

  • Customer: James from Ft Wayne IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
very easy.....
1. removed the food items from the shelf
2. raised the shelf and removed the broken support post
3. inserted the new support post and guided the drawer rails to rest in the new support slots
4. cleaned the glass shelf and replaced the food items
5. made my wife very happy now that the veg drawer opens and closed like new.

Freezer was not defrosting and the refrigerator was warming up.

  • Customer: Serge from Richmond CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
This is a bottom freezer refrigerator. First I unplugged the refrigerator. I then removed the wire shelf and wire tray from the freezer. I then removed the ice maker be removing the three screws that hold it in place. I then disconnected the icemaker electrical connector. I then removed the 7 screws that hold the panel at the back of the freezer revealing the evaporator and heat exchanger. I then unclipped the icemaker wiring harness from the panel. The whole evaporator/heat exchanger was buried in ice. I defrosted it with a hairdryer. This took about half an hour. The bi-metal thermostat is attached to the heat exchanger by a clip. Be sure to wear latex gloves to prevent cutting your fingers on the aluminum fins. I disconnected the electrical connectors and then carefully unclipped the thermostat. I discovered that the new thermostat had spade connectors where as the original had one spade connector and a bullet connector on the brown wire. I reused the original bullet connector by cutting it off the old thermostat and splicing it onto the new thermostat. I reversed the process for reassembly. There is no longer any ice build up and the refrigerator is working normally.

Ice building around door and on mullions, gasket deformed

  • Customer: David from Emporia KS
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Other stories I've read here speak to difficulty of changing a gasket with the door on the appliance. Whoa! Take the door off, tape cardboard over the opening, lay the door on its back and proceed. You will avoid racking or twisting the door and having the new gasket fit worse than the old. You can also thaw ice which often forms inside a door over time. Reinstall the door taking pains to shim properly so the new gasket is not overcompressed or allowing a gap. A dollar bill is a good gauge. It should resist a bit as it is pulled out after closing the door on it. This was not exactly step-by-step, just offered as advice from a whole bunch of experience.

Broken refrigerator door handle

  • Customer: Dawn from Middleton WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The part arrived in one day!!

First I removed the two screws that attached the handle to the door. Then I removed the white insert from the old handle and installed it on the new handle (4 screws involved). Last, I installed the new handle by attaching it with 2 screws. It was a breeze!

Refrigerator stopped cooling. Pulled it out of the alcove and plugged it back in. Compressor starfted but noticed condenser fan was not turning. Unplugged fridge and tried to turn the fan by hand - frozen.

  • Customer: Florentino from Windsor Locks CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the back hardboard cover screws for access to the condenser fan. I opted to tip the fridge over on its side for even better access to the fan mounts and wire. Replaced the fan assy (reused the fan). Splice the wire and it's done.

Refridgerator not cold becasue coils encased in ice

  • Customer: Fred from Niskayuna NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
There is already a lot of good advice on this web site and others on how to diagnose and do this repair. I'll add a few additional comments that might be helpful.

I wanted to confirm that my old thermostat was in fact bad. I did this by disconnecting the two connectors and connecting them to each other to bypass the thermostat. This is like having the thermostat always closed. With the back panel still open so I could see the frozen coils I plugged the fridge back in and turned the defrost timer knob with a screwdriver to get to a defrost cycle. I could then see the heater element slowly melting the ice. This is of course not a safe way to operate the fridge. Over time this would get too hot and damage the food or worse. I only did this for a few minutes to see the system operating. I did not melt all the ice at that time. Also, it is of course dangerous to plug the fridge in with the panel open, so a great deal of caution is advised.

When I got my new thermostat I wanted to confirm that it worked before going through the install procedure. To do this I cooled it down and then used an ohm-meter to see that the circuit was closed. The important thing I found out is that ice-water, even 2 parts ice, one part cold water, was not cold enough to do this. Only when I put the thermostat into a cold freezer for a while did it get cold enough to close the circuit. I did this side by side with my old thermostat and saw that it was in face bad -it never closed the circuit.

This part from Part Select was an exact match for this freezer-on-bottom Whirlpool refrigerator. The connectors were identical so I did not have to solder wires together as others have need to do.

Some people get the ice off of the coils with a hair dryer. For me this could take half an hour. What worked better and much faster was spraying warm water on the ice with an old spray bottle. This adds extra water to the mix, but it did not overflow the drain pan. Even if it did, it would be easily mopped up if you can roll the fridge out.

One last thing. I suspect this thermostat broke in the winter, but with the dry air the fridge worked for a long time. Once summer hit and the house got humid, the coils iced up quickly.

Good Luck!
All Instructions for the BX22S5W
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