ATW4470TQ0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Removed the top cap, unbolted the agitator, lifted off the top section, removed old "dogs" and replaced new "dogs", reinstalled agitator and tested.

Changing the springs was a ...snap. The more delicate task was to figure out how to get to them; for this model, the back panel comes off (after removing 3 screws, the drain hose and drain hose plastic coupler, removing the 2 screws holding the control panel, pivoting the control panel and finally removing two spring clips. Also, the plastic water diverter takes a little bit of patience to be unhooked from its slots in the back panel as it will not slide out with the back panel. With the back panel off, the entire "shell" can be removed, exposing the guts. I twisted the tub to release the tension in the suspension springs and replaced them, one by one. Finally, the counterweight spring. I also lubed the support pads to allow for a "friendlier" leveling. Re-assemble, replace the old and cracked water supply hoses, and time for a beer and my girlfriend's obligatory OOOOHs and AAAAHs... All in all (cleanup and test included..) about one hour.

1. Read a repair manual that I bought several years ago for this model. Pictures and notes for removing control panel and back cover of washer were very helpful. Replacing the lid switch was easy as long as you have the lid open when locking it down. The control valve was easy and I swapped out wires one at a time to make sure I didn't swap hot for cold. I then removed valve and locked down new one. Reversing the control panel and back skin were easy with a second set of hands to hold the back panel in place while installing two bottom screws. The parts resolved the problems.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

I removed the back of the washer, removed the old water inlet syphon, replaced it with the new one, and, with some difficulty, replaced the back of the washer, reattaching all of the parts to it.

just like video showed really helpfull

I did the repairs after watching a few videos on this web site and it covered everything I needed. Went well and the parts were perfect.

The water pump had a small leak when washing clothes, and my wife was nagging me about it. I know men, youwere shocked that I said nagging and wife in the same sentence. Me being a man, I would have just left it since it is in the laundry room in the carport.

I turned the washer on its side and felt where the leak was on the pump, went inside and ordered the new pump. It was here in 2 days and it took 15 mins to put it back on with only a screwdriver to snap off the retainers and pliers to undo two hoses.

I told my woman that it was fixed and we have lived happily ever after and we played Appliance Repair Man and I was paid very well for the "House Call" if you know what I mean!!!!!

I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

After reading other comments about lid switch replacement , I knew the front of the control panel would move forward and lift off. Although none of the descriptions mention the steel clips that were also use to hold the cover down. It does take quite a bit of presure to pry these up and loose before panel would move forward. Would recomend putting tape on both washer and screwdriver to protect washer.

Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.

Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

Ordered part PS3408149 from partselect.com. Lifted Washer control panel with putty knife. Removed hinges (regular screwdriver, used as a crowbar rather than screwdriver) holding control panel to washer body. Moved washer body panel out of the way, and reviewed level sensor/level selector switch. Take handle off front of selector switch. Twist selector switch off from inside (90 degree turn till square inset lines up withsquare hole, then it will come out). Insert new selector switch. Remove old tubing. Fish new tubing through where old tubing was. Cut off extra tubing, then push tubing onto selector switch and tub basin (where old tubing was). Put washer back together. Done. Worked perfectly.