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PartSelect Number PS11742194
This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
To replace the inlet solenoid valve/thermistor assembly: Unplug the washer. Turn the water off and unscrew the hoses from the inlet. Unsnap the end caps from the top control panel. Remove the exposed screws from each end of the panel (#2 Phillips). Pull the panel out of the way and pop out the two retaining clips that hold the back of the machine to the cabinet. They are located under the control panel. Remove the mounting screw from the valve assembly (1/4-inch driver).Pull the back away from the cabinet far enough to remove the valve, but don't let the wires get cut.Disconnect the wires. To unplug the solenoid connectors, lift the long tab with a screwdriver. Disconnect the water outlet hose.Connect the wires and hose to the new valve assembly. The red connector goes to the hot water valve. The thermistor wires (the two individual connectors) can be connected to either terminal. It does not matter if they are reversed. Put the valve back in place and install the screw. Hook up and turn the water on. Plug in the machine and test the valve. Unplug the power and reinstall the back and the control panel. The back-to-cabinet clips can be snapped back in place easily.
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I first removed the top panel,disconnected all the wire clips(four)and then removed the back panelwhich is held in plsce by two bolts on the bottom and one plastic clip.After that i removed the solnoidwires after marking them (hot and cold) the removed the hose clamp then removed the valve it self.Attached the new valve reconnected the hose and re attached the panels and now it works great.
Unplug machine then removed two screws from the back of the control panel so that the panel could be removed from the top of enclosure. I then removed the two spring clips that fastens the enclosure to the back panel of machine. Stand in front of machine and tilt enclosure back towards you, this opens up the machine to get access to the inlet valve. Remove all electrical wires and the water hose at the bottom of the valve. There was only one bolt that attached the valve to the back panel; remove it and replace water inlet valve.
After uplugging and removing the hoses from the back of the washer, 1 - Removed four screws that secure control panel to top of machine and tilted panel toward front. Disconnected wiring plugs as req'd to gain more access. 2 - Removed the two gold colored clips that secure the top to the lower sheetmetal housing and tilted the lower housing away from the back of the machine. 3 - Removed the shield that is clipped to the back just above the inlet valve assy. 4 - Removed the hose clamp from the valve, disconnected the four wires to the valve (note their position), Removed the single screw that secures the valve assy to the back and removed the valve assy. Installation is reverse of above.
1. Read a repair manual that I bought several years ago for this model. Pictures and notes for removing control panel and back cover of washer were very helpful. Replacing the lid switch was easy as long as you have the lid open when locking it down. The control valve was easy and I swapped out wires one at a time to make sure I didn't swap hot for cold. I then removed valve and locked down new one. Reversing the control panel and back skin were easy with a second set of hands to hold the back panel in place while installing two bottom screws. The parts resolved the problems.
1. water inlet valve the one shipped had 1 screw and a hose clamp. very easy, however, the wrong valve was shipped to me for my product but it was a 5watt selenoid so i hadto turn it upside down so the outlet nozzle was facing the right direction putting selenoids upside down. It works but the nozzle is quite a bit larger and i've had my washer overfill with water a couple times. I beleive its probably beecause the water is metered by time to open selenoid and the larger water output nozzle is just letting to much water in for the time allowed I'd like to return this part and get correct replacement it will probably remedy this issue. 2. door lock latch did not fix the problem. Once I finally foun d the correct manual online, after i installed new lock :( , it is a feature of the washing machine to keep small children from starting the machine you can somehow set the" control lock" feature on the machine. it is disabled by pressing the drain/spin button for 3 sec. and all the buttons started working again. I dont know how it got enabled but you sure cant do laundry with the controls locked. so in summary, the selenoid did fix water entering tub but it's now overfilling because of nozzle size. :( and i would like to return it and get correct part. The door lock latch is fine but I cant return it because it is an electrical part:( I guess I should have purchased it from the other online repair/ parts website because they take back used electrical parts. I used your site because it was cheaper, but I paid for shipping and they had free shipping but really costof part was rolled into a shipping charge so it would have been the same money. I would like to swap out the water selenoid if possible i realize door lock latch i will eat, so please respond and tell me if i can swap water inlet valve :) 405-818-7426 if there are any questions and I could give you some real helpful hints for your websites troubleshooting proceedures in particular for this machine. would help you and your customers immensly. I was really impressed with your response and shipping it arrived the very next day before noon WOW.
I disconnected the water lines and pulled the washing machine over so it was lying on its front. I removed two screws on the bottom edge of the back, and then puzzled over how to get the back off. I ended up removing the screws that held the control panel on, removing the wiring harness, and taking the control panel/head off. This exposed two metal clips that I was able to unhook. I unhooked the water valve from the back, disconnected the electrical connections, removed the water line, and replaced the valve. Then I puzzled about how to put it back together for a bit, and basically just reversed the order I took it apart.
Removed the 4 screws and nuts to get the control panel, off. Took-off brass clips that hold the back on. Removed 2 bottom nuts and plastic clips on back of washer. Took the back partially off, and removed the water inlet valve and replaced it. Reversed the procedure to re-assemble.The valve may not have been deffective, since after inspection, the hot water inlet screen was clogged with gunk.
Unplugged appliance and turned off water supply.1. Gained access to and removed 2 screws that secure control panel.2. Lifted control panel out of the way.3. Removed housing retaining clips and removed housing.4. Removed both inlet water pipes at rear of washer. Unplugged electrical connections from valve. Unscrewed screw from valve body and lifted valve up and out.5. Fitted new valve in reverse order.To replace drain pump first ensured all water was drained from washer ;1. Lifted retaining clips from old pump and twisted clips by 90* to remove. Slid pump unit forward and clear from drive motor.2. Retracted hose clips using an adjustable pliers and removed both pipes catching any remaining water in a bucket.3. Fit new pump in reverse order making sure that the motor shaft aligned up correctly with the pump coupler.4. Replaced appliance housing, control panel, water pipes, plugged back into mains and turned on the water supply. Ran a test to make sure both hot and cold water solenoid valves were working and checked for water leak at the drain pump.
Just kept removing rear panel fasteners until the panel could be separated from the washer sides and top. Removed the existing valve from the rear panel by removing one screw, and lifting the valve assembly slightly so that it could be pushed back through the rear panel holes. Removed the existing valve's wiring and outlet hose and transferred them to the new valve. When the four wires and one hose had been transferred from old to new, valve, inserted the new valve with connected wiring and hose back into the rear panel holes, and aligned the valve's screw hole with the hole in the rear panel. Replaced the screw which secures the valve assembly to the rear panel, and re-attached the rear panel.
As with any repair job, the hardest part is getting started and figuring out how to take it apart. I first tried to remove the top, by prying up on it,( his has worked in the past). This only broke the plastic retaining clips. I then removed the two plastic covers on each end of the control panel, then the two screws that hold the front of the control panel down. and lastly slid the control panel forward and out of its slots. I then used a 5/16th nutdriver to remove the four screws from the back panel. Now I was able to pull the panel back away from the washer body enough to use needle nose pliers to to remove the four electrical plugs located on the mixing valve. I used a felt tip marker to identify the locations of each plug. I used a 1/4 nut driver to remove the one mounting screw that held the valve in place and removed the valve. When the new valve arrived, It took about 15 minutes to re-install the valve and put everything back together.
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