A702S Maytag Washer - Instructions

Based on info from website, sounded like it was the Belt Kit that needed replacing. While waiting for the Belt Kit, decided to take the Agitator out to have a "look-see". OMG! There was liquid fabric softener gunk so thick in, around, underneath the agitator that the unit could not get traction. The burning smell was the gunk getting hot as the agitator tried to work. After a thorough cleaning of the agitator and anything relating to it's ability to agitate, my Maytag is performing like it was brand new! I'm keeping the Belt Kit, because my washer is older and I've heard from friends and family that have purchased the new water restricted units, absolutely hate them; like the "low flow" toilets, instead of flushing once, you now have to flush 5 times. They are washing more smaller loads and double rinsing each load to get their clothes clean and free of residue. I'm a 69 year old woman who finds your website and your marvelous contributors an absolute Blessing!

new replacement water pump leaked where plastic housing upper and lower halves were bonded, presumably with glue. As a quick fix I wrapped pump with some 3M 4411N sealing tape. Seems to have stopped or really slowed leak. I was going to get another new pump but now worried it will leak as well so going to see how long tape fix works..

Removed the front panel with a screw driver, removed the old bumpers with a pair of pliers, replaced the bumpers and replaced the panel. All was very simple and took no time. The video on your website was most helpful. Thanks

Received wrong springs for my model had too use combo old spring with the two new (too long) springs to get the tension on the belts. For now it working. Did not contact you due shipping took so long and two delay date change by FedEx ground. I didn't want to go thru another delivery nightmare. Thanks for the time.

Chalked the transmission with a pipe wrench. Removed the brake with grabbing on to it with vicegrips and hammered on the vicegrips to remove the brake. The new brake spun on after the first two brakes didn't. Working great now!

Removed tubs per prescribed videos. Removed transmission per video. Disassembled transmission per video. Used heat and penetrating oil to free top shaft. Lubricated top shaft and bushings with grease and reinstalled. Reassembled washer with replacement parts from partselect. Problem solved. My wife loves this washer. It lasted 30 years before I had issues, many of the internals looked brand new. They dont make' m like this anymore. With the self- help videos, and OEM parts from partselect, I'll get another 30, Thank you so much.

Could not complete because sent the wrong part (just a seal instead of the tube) several times, in spite of talking on the phone for hours. Eventually gave up and ordered from another company.

Then found agitator shaft was rusted to spin shaft. Worked on that for awhile. Motor then burnt out. I quit and bought new machine. I had ordered a top end seal from you guys. I trashed the machine before your seal arrived. Called you. Nice lady said she would send an E mail so I could return unused seal. That message has not arrived yet.
Pat Wehling

Remove 2 screws from bottom of front panel, swing panel out and lift off. Remove 2 hex head screws from inside front corners. Lift top to expose injector in left rear corner. Remove clamp, remove injector from air break box then use screwdriver to pry the lip back through the hole in the tub. Carefully squeeze the lip of injector through the tub hole. Silicone grease or liquid detergent may help. Then reattach the injector to air break box and reassemble washer.

all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill

Found the parts I needed on your website along with a video that showed exactly how to do the repair. Set my iPad on the dryer and followed along step by step. Never would have tried something like this without your helpful information.

Unhooked water and drain lines, Unplugged electrical. Removed the two phillips screws at the bottom of the front cover. Removed the Front cover. TIpped machine backwards at about a 45 degree angle using a 2x4 to support the machine. Removed the pump belt and the drive belt. Installed the old pump belt and the new drive belt. Loosened the 3 each 5/16" bolts holding the pump mechanism and moved pump to the left. Moved pump to right to tighten pump belt and tightened the left pump bolt. Loosend the one pump bolt and pulled the motor to the left to tighten the drive belt and holding in this position I tightened the pump screws, Pump belt was now looser than the drive belt. Ran washer and it worked perfectly.

Slipped on belts no tools needed.

I replaced the 3 screws because they were rusty. Then I replaced the Drain pump

This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.