A210 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Because the washer was old, 27 years, I actually ordered a new machine but after doing so was able to get the old washer to pump out the water. It had overfilled and spilled water on the floor. The next time I ran the washer using "warm" setting the hot water inlet solenoid failure was evident. I checked voltage at the solenoid and it was getting power so figured I'd try ordering a $30 part. In a couple of days it showed up and after less than :30 minutes I had the washer running again. It would have taken less time but a screw stripped out and I had to locate a replacement. I'd definitely recommend PartSelect. Oh, we cancelled the replacement washer and figured the Maytag repairman could resume his slumber!

Actuator spring for the lid switch broke. Removed the lid by prying it from the top of the machine. The lid is secured by two plastic balls on either side. Removed the actuator switch screws and slid the actuator assembly out over the washer drum. Replaced the spring and reassembled the actuator to the machine. Put vaseline on each plastic ball to hold them in place while I snapped the lid back on to the machine top.

Once i figured out it would not drain i pulled the front panel off and pulled all the drain hoses off to be sure nothing was clogged there or in the pump itself. It was not so then i checked the drive belt and it was ok. Next i pulled off the drain pump and everything looked to be ok, it was not froze up and it would spin just fine. I got a screwdriver and held the splines inside the pump while trying to turn the pulley and thats when i found that the propeller was spinning on the shaft and under a load would only spin the shaft and not the propeller inside the pump. Got online ordered new pump and it works great now.

I was impressed with the fast time the part was delivered. The price was good too. The installation video and instructions did not match my dryer but it was helpful to some extent. The video and instructions being different was not ya'll's fault because of the age of the dryer. It took me so long to change the switch was because of the location and design of the switch. I got it though.

Pulled the washer away from wall and tipped forward, leaning against a chair. Removed the hot and cold water hoses. Removed 1 screw. Pulled the plate off the back of the washer. Removed two screws holding the old valve onto that plate. Took 4 wires off the original valve one at a time and placed the wires one at a time on the new valve, so I didnt have to write down or remember which wire went where. Slid one hose clamp up, pushed the hose off the old valve and placed it on the new valve. Threw the two screws back on the valve and fastened it to the plate. Put the plate back on the back side of the washer with one screw. Put some teflon tape on the threads of the new water valve and screwed on the hot and cold water hoses.

I watched the online video that was supplied when I ordered the part and it made all the difference in a successful repair. Thank you for having such a complete solution!

Removed two screws , two more on the valve, loosened the hose clamp. Reassembled the same way

I watched the video and it was just a easy as the video stated. This part was stated as a common problem causing the water leak. I was doubtful after looking at the old part because there were no visible signs of wear, but decided to go along with the guidance and sure enough, it fixed the leak. It was a minor cost and an easy fix.

Remove front cover lower screws(2) with Phillips screwdriver. Remove Upperlid Bolts (left & right side) under top cover , Flip lid Back to access siphon break (rear right corner) Remove drain hose clamp, Remove clamp at bottom of siphon break. Remove (4) screws rear of washer around drain hose elbow. Remove siphon break, reinstall in reverse order. (Make Sure new siphon break washer is installed in siphon break.

Very easy as the water inlet valve is located on the back of the washer and it was a simple matter of shutting off the water, undoing water hoses, undoing water inlet valve which didn't even need to remove the back side of the washer and connecting the new part, water hoses and turning water back on. The hardest part was tipping the washer, my sits on top of the cold air return, and balancing on a milk crate. Very pleased with being able to do my own repair.

I followed the online installation video and it worked perfectly. I am a fan of this site and would recommend it to anyone .

Replaced both belts, just like the video's on you tube. Pulled off the old one's, put the new one's on. Washer runs better then it has in years.

With the help of my 3 year old grandson, we removed the inlet hoses and inlet panel. The water inlet valve replacement was a perfect fit. All connections conformed to the original part. I had reviewed a video at the time of order, so was familiar with the process by the time the part arrived. The website was very helpful in determination of what was needed to fix the washer problem. Shipping was fast and tracking the package provided my schedule. I will utilize this site in the future.

I took the front off by removing the two Phillips head screws at the bottom. I leaned the washer backwards and blocked the front up about 6 - 8 inches. Next I loosened the three screws that hold the pump on. Then remove the belt. Now it is time to get the hoses off by taking the clamps loose. Wiggle the hose and pull them off. You need a small bowel and towels to collect the water in the hoses. The final step is to take out the three screws that you already loosened that hold the pump on. The pump can now be lifted up and removed. Replace the pump with the new one and reverse the procedure.

No brainer. Simply followed the inclosed printed directions. Replaced both pump and drive belts. Didn't find it necessary to adjust belt tension.