Models > A102 Maytag > Instructions

A102 - Instructions

Installation Instructions for parts on models starting with A102

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Models starting with A102

All Instructions for models starting with A102
46-60 of 156
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Standing water in washer tub

  • Customer: James from Baton Rouge LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Thinking the water pump was not doing its job in removing all of the water after the rinse cycle, I replaced the water pump.

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove front cover (2 screws).
3. Pull belt and hoses off pump body (watch for water in drain hose!).
4. Remove 3 screws holding pump to bottom pan. 5. Reverse process with new pump.

This job is straighforward, and it helps to have 2 wood blocks to prop up the front of the washer.

Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem. Actual cause of the water in the tub was a leaking inlet valve (solenoid assy).

Washing Machine Tub would not drain

  • Customer: CHRISTOPHER from BOCA RATON FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that held the front panel in place. Then I determined that the belt for the pump had fallen off because the drive belt was worn (and inverted) and a piece was hanging off and causing the pump belt to slip off the motor. I replaced the belt for the pump (Temporarily) to allow the tub to drain.

I replaced both belts with new belts and returned the front panel. The process took 15 minutes due to the necessity of explaining the proper use of tools to a neighbor child and allowing him to assist (required for the completion of one of his Cub Scout requirements).

WASHER LEAKED WATER FROM BOTTOM SEAL

  • Customer: JACLYN from RICE LAKE WI
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED WASHER TUBS INNER AND OUTER
NUT (PART # 10 ) ON INNER WAS HARD TO REMOVE AND IS A REVERSE THREAD USED HAMMER TO LOOSEN ONCE OFF REMOVED 1ST TUB - THEN REMOVED SET SCREW #17 AND THEN UNSCREWED MOUNTING S ITEM #29 THIS AGAIN REQUIRED SOME HAMMER TAPPING TO LOOSEN - ONCE OFF USED FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER TO PRY & REMOVE THE RUBBER PIECE ON BOTTOM OF OUTER OR 2ND TUB -BUT KEEP GOING AS THE LEAK WILL PROBABLY BE FROM PART #20 TUB BEARING ( THIS WILL SAVE YOU THE TIME TO TEST AND FIND OUT IT STILL LEAKS AND HAVE TO TAKE APART AGAIN AFTER ONLY REPLACING #29 REMOVED 3 BOLTS HOLDING TUB - DISCONNECTED HOSES AND REMOVED 2ND TUB - USED RUBBER HAMMER TO KNOCK OUT AND INSTALL #20 TUB BEARING - REASEMBLED AND WOW NO LEAKS TO COST ABOUT $120 - TIME WORKED ON 3 HRS - ONLY BECAUSE TOOK APART 2 TIMES - DOWN TIME ON WASHER 10 DAYS AS WE DIDN'T ORDER ALL PARTS TO START WITH NO BEER NEEDED BUT DID ENJOY A NICE RED WINE - GOOD LUCK

REPAIRS WERE EASY.

  • Customer: James from Ventura CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED TOP. REMOVED AGITATOR AND TUBS . REPLACED SEALS AND REASSEMBLED.

slow leak at bottom of unit.

  • Customer: alex from ogden UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

Worn belts

  • Customer: Ronald from Birmingham MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
All I had to do is tilt the machine to expose the bottom and replace the belts. It was fast, easy and the machine works fine now.

Resin balls on which the top loader lid hinges had broken.

  • Customer: EL from O'Fallon IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

Floor floded when washer started.

  • Customer: Keith from Big Sur CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Thirty year old Maytag washer. Remove two screws at bottom of front panel with Philips screw driver. Hinge panel up to disconnect front panel from top of machine. Tilt washer back against wall to gain access to pulley at underside of washer. Then remove Philips head screw from bottom of center shaft. Remove bevel washer with screw. Remove stop block from end of center shaft and wind the pulley off center shaft. Clean center shaft of any debris and lightly coat with grease. Install belt on new pulley and motor, wind new pulley on center shaft. Replace stop block, washer, screw, and front cover.

Water leaking when washing machine was filling

  • Customer: marc from vancouver WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
After ruling out leaks in the hoses, pumps, tanks, and other connections, I set the machine to start filling while I had the top open. Immediately, it was obvious the water was coming out from the injector valve (located at the top of the machine, between the water inlet mixing valve and the washing tank).

After taking this part off and disassembling, I realized that the neoprene inner part was not salvageable. (I tried cleaning off the accumulated scale and reassembling, but the rubber was too old and stiff, and no longer worked as designed.)

I considered just replacing the valve assembly, but when I saw that the price to purchase hoses as well was only slightly more, I decided to go ahead and do the full job.

The actual repair consisted of removing a couple hose clamps, sliding the new parts into place, and putting the covers back on the machine. Less than 1/2 hour.

There are two phillips head screws near the bottom of the front cover panel to remove, then two hex head screws up near the top of the machine (inside) to release the top cover from the frame. The top then tips up to reveal the inlet hoses.

At that point, the rest of the procedure is obvious. Remove the hose clamps and pull off the old hoses; install the new parts; replace the covers on washing machine.

Don't force anything into place. If you have to push that hard, chances are something is not in the right position. There is plenty of room for the parts if they are installed correctly.

Hint: use a drop of liquid hand soap to lubricate the inside of the hoses prior to pushing them onto the fittings. It makes them slide right on and saves a lot of frustration. Any excess soap will flush through on the first load and become part of the wash cycle.

torn hose from injector to top of tub

  • Customer: Michael from New York NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
removed front panel (2 screws at base)

Raised lid panel (2 Screws under panel)

Removed old hose and water injector (2 clamps)

Installed new hose and injector and resecured panels

water leaking

  • Customer: Stacey from Philadelphia PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
opened washer removed old damaged part and replaced with new part, losen brackets from hose inlet, removed hose, then fit new hose into tub groves can be very frustrating take your time and be patient, once you get it on, fit over inlet, tighten brackets make sure that seal is secure by turning on the water to fill if no leak the job is done run thru complete cycle to test. Thanks

Water leaked when the washer tub filled.

  • Customer: Michael from Wauwatosa WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I removed two screws near the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom away from the machine. Inside, I removed two cap screws, one under each front corner of the top panel. The top panel is hinged at the rear. I lifted the top panel from the front, rotated it to the rear and leaned it against the wall behind the machine. It was not necessary to disconnect any wiring. The "U" shaped water injector hose connects to the washer water source with a hose clamp and has a grommet-like end that fits in a round hole in the top of the tub. The hose had cracked and was leaking where it connected to the tub. The new injector hose was a direct replacement and was easy to install.

Washer leaked during fill and cycle

  • Customer: Michael from Cranberry TWP PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the first guys directions.
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely

All water into tub leaked from bottom of machine

  • Customer: Steve from Martinsville IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
To troubleshoot the problem I removed a panel/blank from the back of the machine. I then started to fill the tub while watching the pump. It immediately leaked from the shaft seal. I ordered the part early the next morning. It arrived late the next day. I was able to remove the front panel of the machine by removing a screw at each front corner of the bottom of the machine. The pump was attached with three screws which were simple to remove. The pump was an exact replacement and fit identically to the original. I tensioned the belt, and tested the machine. Before reinstalling the front cover, I cleaned the interior of the machine a bit and replaced a couple of hose clamps whose steel screws had started to corrode. All in all a simple repair.

Leak due to torn hose

  • Customer: Dean from Lynnwood WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Loosen one hose clamp, slide old hose off fitting, disconnect hose from washer tub. Apply liquid soap to both ends of new hose to make it easy to slip onto the fitting and the tub. Slip hose clamp on one end, fit other end to washer tub, slip hose onto fitting, tighten clamp.
All Instructions for models starting with A102
46-60 of 156