Models > A102 Maytag > Instructions

A102 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A102 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A102
16-30 of 162
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Clamp rusted through permitting upper & lower tub to separate

  • Customer: George from Fort Myers Beach FL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Clamp was already in multiple pieces so easy to get off.

Got clamp from partselect.com in 1 day which was great.

Removed two PH screws from front cover then pulled bottom of front cover outward and down to remove.

Caution for those doing this: take a piece of 220 or 240 grit paper and sand all the edges of the clamp. Trying to put it on without doing so will result in countless paper cuts in hands.

Before putting new clamp on be sure to use either some soap or silicon lube on the rubber V seal between upper and lover tub.

Also need to put some 1/4" to 3/8" spacers at three equally spaced places beneath the upper tub and the lower tub. If this isn't done the upper tub will drop down too far inside the lower tub and the inner lower tub, when it starts to spin, will rub on the underside of the upper tub = cause the main drive belt to smoke and tub to "freeze up"

Spacers I used were simply 3 pieces of multi strand sheathed electrical wire 3/8" so that I could bend them down at an angle and put them out once clamp was in place. Wire pieces need to be about 4-5" long.

Assemble one bolt in clamp and thread around tub in CCW direction.

Position one bolt of the clamp in right rear corner. this is important so that when tub goes out of balance, there's clearance for the clamp bolts and they don't contact the cabinet.

Make sure before threading clamp arount tub that the screw that will end up in the front left corner has a hex head on it so that you can apply some clamping "muscle" with a socket wrench.

I had trouble getting the front left screw inserted in the clamp (its only 2" long) so I used a 3" bolt to make the preliminary connection to pull the clamp semi tight. I planned ahead and got a light wire coat hanger to use as a "tie-tie" in the event that I had to remove the 3" slotted screw to revert back to the 2" hex head screw. Luckily when I removed the 3" screw I was able to quickly pop the 2" hex head back in and tighten completely.

Before putting front cover on, do one load with front cover off to make sure that upper and lower/inner tub don't rub each other.

If ok, turn power back off and put front cover back on.

Note: Would advised ordering the rubber V-seal if you are ordreing the clamp. If you buy the seal there are four bolts in the lid that let you lift the lid to work on the tub, clamp and seal MUCH more easily. Sticky part is getting water fill tube in top left rear disconnected so that new rubber v-seal can slide over tub.

Note also that in order to get to front left lid bolt that single bolt holding diaphram onto front left upright must be removed so as the let diaphram assembly drop away to access front left lid bolt. The two bolts in the rear can be accessed from the top very easily. Also need to disconnect the bleach fill tube in order to lift the lid (right side lifts up to vertical position)

The water didn't pump out during the spin cycle

  • Customer: Robert from Menomonee Falls WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I took out the two screws in the bottom front panel of the washer, and rotated the front panel from the bottom away from the machine until the top or the panel was released from the machine frame. I then tilted the washer back to get access to the bottom of the machine. The pump pulley had split in half, and the bottom half fell off the drive motor shaft. The only problem I had was breaking free the set screw that holds the pulley to the drive motor shaft. I used a long arm Allen wrench and an adjustable "Cresent" wrench to apply enough force to break the set screw loose. Iclamped the upper transmission belts tightly to keep the motor shaft from turning while I loosened the set screw.

Water leaking from the underside center of the tub. Only on the rinse cycle.

  • Customer: Mark from King George VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I want to mention only the difficult parts.
The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet.
Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.

Washer leaking badly and making loud noise on spin

  • Customer: Barry from Brooklyn NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.

When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.

In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.

burning rubber smell

  • Customer: EVAN from DUXBURY MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench set
  • 17 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy but didn't fix the issue . The transmission was the problem washing machine would no longer agitate

Stripped leveler screw making impossible to level my washer

  • Customer: Rebecca from Wylie TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.

it was leaking underneath the washing machine tub

  • Customer: Jason from Clinton OK
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
That would take forever to write in everything you have to do, but I did go to a website that had the steps you must do to complete the repair. You can google tub seal kit and mounting stem and the brand of your appliance and i'm sure you will come across the steps to complete the repair. I would advise you to first order a spanner wrench it makes the job much easier and you really can't complete the job without it. So do that first and then take the machine apart if you suspect it's a tub seal leak and then order your parts. if i had a spanner wrench available to me from the beginning it would have gone much smoother from the start.

washer wouldn't let the water spin out!

  • Customer: SHARON from DETROIT MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I was told that it might be a clog in the tube.. we check the tubes that wasn't it Then I Google it and was told it might be the drain pump. I was just glad that Part Select had what I need because my machine is over 20 years old. We change the pump and now I hope I get at least another 20 years out of my machine. I will always use part select to get my parts. Thanks

agitator would not work

  • Customer: Peter from Aurora IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
A tension sping on the motor broke, smoking the drive belt.
step1...remove front of the washer to access spring, tip washer back & prop on short 2 x 4 board. 5 minutes
step 2... remove one end of pump belt to get new bely up to drive pulley put on belt using fingers only & replaced the end of the pump belt....2 minutes

step 3...put new spring under motor & hook one end in attaching hole on motor, reach through with pliers to grasp spring to pull end to attach spot on base...1 minute

It took longer to open up the washer front & prop it up that it took to repair it. This is a siper easy repair!

Leaking Tub Seal

  • Customer: jerry from haslet TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The task to replace the tub seal would have been relatively easy had it not been for the need of a special spanner wrench to remove the nut securing the seal. Instead of purchasing the one time use spanner wrench which was only available on line and would have delayed my repair I elected to cut the putty metal nut off with a cutting dremel tool. This was a delecate process to ensure one did not damage anything else in the process of cutting the nut. Once complete a set screw, pipe wrench and common screwdriver, hammer and tap punch was all that was used. Easy process from removal to installation and the leak was fixed saving significant $$$ over having a "maytag repairman" perform the fix...parts select video helped describe everything and cost while not cheap was significantly less for an adept DIY customer.

The pump starting leaking around the center portion.

  • Customer: Kenny from Covington OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part was figuring out how to get the front panel off of the washer. Once that was done, the pump came off easy.... 3 screws attached it to the bottom panel and 2 hose had to be disconnected. Putting the new one in was easy.

Water Leaking from underneath washer

  • Customer: Rocco from Kenvil NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
For the most part, I followed the excellent repair advice already available on this site for installing these parts. Especially useful was the caution that the threaded pieces had "left hand" threads and to loosen them they had to be turned in a "CLOCK WISE" direction. My washer is 9 years old and due to calcium deposits on the threads, I did have some trouble with loosening the large retaining nut. I first soaked the nut for a few hours with a rag soaked with white vinegar. This removed some of the calcium but I still was unable to undo the nut. Finally, I soaked the nut overnight with penetrating oil and WD-40. The next morning I was able to loosen it using a drift punch and medium sized ball peen hammer. I only had one difficulty. Maybe it wasn't necessary to do so, but I wanted the rubber boot seal to be seated pretty close to the surface of the inner basket. This turned out to require more downward force than I would have expected even though I installed it dry, without use of any type of lubricant or soapy solution. Now, two weeks worth of washing and not a drop of water seen underneath the washer.

Water leak

  • Customer: richard from Tarzana CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).

Washer did not drain.

  • Customer: Basil from St. Charles MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.

Leaking near one of the seal clamps

  • Customer: JIM from PINE RIVER MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Thoroughly cleaned the edges to be sealed with a wire brush and sand paper. shimmed the top piece with 1/4 inch plywood strips. seated the top piece with the seal attached and worked the seal down into place. Positioned the seal clamp, carefully, and tightened the clamp screws. Replacing the seal did the trick, even though the old seal did not look to be in bad shape.
All Instructions for the A102
16-30 of 162