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Heat was escaping from my oven and really heating up my house
The heat sealing strips are elastic type material with hooks on each end. I simply removed the old strips and hooked the new ones in place. It was easier than I ever dreamed possible! And my kitchen is now nice and cool. Pat Morrison Sanger TX
I removed the two screws that held in the old part. I pulled the element out a few inches.I disconnected two wires from the old element and connected it to the new. Using the screws provided I reconnected the unit. All went well. No need for repairman. 1
The oven igniter lit up but the valve wouldn't release the gas to ignite.
I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured with the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.
first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.
removed 10 screws on the outer door assembly, removed front glass/door panel. Continue to remove glass protector, the frame that holds the glass. Remove the layer that protects insulation and surrounds glass. Remove glass assembley, replace with new kit. Replace everything back in order. Replace door on oven. Inner screws were phillips head, the screws on the door were hex.
In principle it should be easy to replace the broil element in the wall oven, after unscrewing the supports for the back and front of the element (see other postings for details). The difficulty is with the ground screw, which is inconveniently only accessible from behind close to the back wall of the oven. A very short phillips screw driver is required, but designed so that good torque can be applied for unscrewing and replacing. The newly designed ground connector on the latest replacement elements makes life a little easier, but still be prepared to work slowly and carefully to complete the replacement. Note the new ground screws supplied only work with a flat-blade screw driver, not a phillips-type.
The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to fully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!
Slid two latches at rear of bottom oven pan toward door, pulled pan up at rear of oven and removed. Igniter exposed, removed two self-tapping screws with nutdriver, pulled wires surrounded by insulation up out of hole in ovenfloor an unsnapped plastic connector wired to old igniter. screwed new igniter to bracket, reconnected wires, pushed connectors into hole and shoved new insulation around wires, fitted bottom pan and turned on oven. Works better than new, Thanks PARTSELECT.
I started by removing the door, then trying to remove all of the screws in the oven casing. Of course the very middle screw in the bottom of the oven was rusted and dammged by use. I had to use a drill bit and remove the old screw. After dissasembly of the oven casing, I found that the lip that supports the gasket was rusted and burnt away about 3/4 in. I placed the new gasket in and found that when closed it covered this defect and sealed. I reassembled and cheked for operation.Ok! Imortant--remove the elements before removing oven casing.
If you watched the video on installing the part it IS that easy. The connector piece matched exactly with what my oven already had so it was as simple as disconnecting the old piece and plugging in the new piece. There was no hidden challenges or obstacles to overcome. The oven works perfectly fine there was a slight smell when I first turned on the oven but I am attributing that to a new part. The smell did go away. I am 24 years old and a female who has limited knowledge in electrical/oven work.
TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN