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Models > 7MMSL0100TW0 > Instructions

7MMSL0100TW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 7MMSL0100TW0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 7MMSL0100TW0
31-45 of 241
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Slipping Spin clutch due to leaking gear-case seal.

  • Customer: Thomas from Pascoag, RI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outlet drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.

tub off center, rubbing on outer tub in spin

  • Customer: Charles from Rose Bud, AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
turned the washer on it's back and shoved the tub to the side to release pressure on a spring ,pulled it loose and installed new one. this worked for the back two then turned washer on it;s face and repeted the process on the front spring.
Washer works great now.

stopped working only filled with water.

  • Customer: Christa J from ElDorado Springs, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Fast simple and supper easy! Please do not waist your time or money on repairmen that rip you off. You are garunteed all the way or your money back from Parts Select. Go to your model number than read a few stories of others to better pin point your problem then order part and your item will ship fast I had my part on the 2nd day of the order. Do not be fooled you can do it easily! I have order twice and both items went smoothly and took less then 10 minutes to put in. Thanks Parts Select for making it possible for the little guys and supporting them and not the big rip off scammers. I will be back when needed. May you continue in your good deed! C.S.

Replaced ring that broke and washer that was bent on the edge.

  • Customer: Kim from West Liberty, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 20 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).

Tub banged against the front of case during spin

  • Customer: Peter from Boca Raton, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.

The wash cycle did not start.

  • Customer: Dwane from Cincinnati, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the plastic panels on each side the control panel. Each side was secured by a phillips screw. Once the screws were removed the side panels were easily removed. I tilted the panel back to the rear of the washing machine to expose the lid switch. I first took a picture with my camera phone to ensure installing the switch correctly. I removed a small screw that secured a green ground wire. The lid switch was removed by lifting the plastic catch with a flathead (or slot) screwdriver and uplugging the switch. Reverse the steps and install the new switch. Secure and tighten the green ground wire. The lid must be lifted to properly seat the lid's guide arm into the lid switch. Replace the side panels and tighten the phillip screws. Test the wash cycle using a low water level. It took me 5 minutes to install this part. I am a attorney not a mechanic.

Hot water would not stop running into machine when machine is off.

  • Customer: Jon from Lafayette, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug machine then removed two screws from the back of the control panel so that the panel could be removed from the top of enclosure. I then removed the two spring clips that fastens the enclosure to the back panel of machine. Stand in front of machine and tilt enclosure back towards you, this opens up the machine to get access to the inlet valve. Remove all electrical wires and the water hose at the bottom of the valve. There was only one bolt that attached the valve to the back panel; remove it and replace water inlet valve.

Will Not Spin

  • Customer: Daniel from Temple, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
This is a relatively new washer and failed early. My previous whirlpool washer lasted 20 years without any repairs. 1. First inquired about the spin problem in partselect. Machine will not sping unless manualy forced then it will take off but weak. 2. Partselect suggested a clutch problem. Ordered the part that came fast. When I tried removing the shaft hub with a hammer and chisel it will not get loose so I opted ordering the special wrench to loosen the tub hub. 3. I put the machine on its back and loosened the pump retaining clips. Do not remove the hoses from the pump. Move the pump away from the motor shaft. Remove the motor electrical connector and set aside. 4. Remove the three bolts holding the gearbox-motor assemply and pull it out of the tub. 5. Put the assembly on a towelwith shaft up and remove the separator washer from the old clutch that is sitting on the gearbox. Then remove the c-retaining clip from the shaft. 6. Pry out the wire retaining clip from the clutch and pull the old clutch out of the shaft. 7. The clutch kit I ordered came with a plastic brake to clutch cam so I replaced it too, just remove the retainig clip from the brake that is at the bottom of the tub and replaced the part. 8. Installed the new clutch and the retaining clips in reverse order. Replace all parts that came with the kit. The new clutch spring was already in place. 9. Put the assembly back into the tub and re-install all the other items in the same order. It spins good now! 10. While replacing parts, methodically clean all the lint from the motor and from under the machine. The gearbox showed signs of leaking oil so its a question of cost. I left it there until it fails then I'll buy a new machine.

The water temperature switch was not working.

  • Customer: Jerry from Palm Bay, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the power cord.
Simply used the putty knife to push the clips back that hold the control panel onto the washer top.
Unpluged the wires to the switch. Pulled the knob off the switch. Turned the switch a quarter turn and pulled it out.
Did the reverse to put it all back together.

Washer would'nt spin

  • Customer: Dean from Poplar Grove, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

My washer stopped mid-cycle and acted completely dead

  • Customer: Jeff from Ventura, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I thought the click of the lid switch sounded different so I pulled the top console and tested it for continuity in both positions and found none. When I by-passed the switch the washer started up, so I knew what the problem was. There are four screws involved to remove the console which reveals the lid switch to the left side. There's a single screw for a ground wire but the switch itself is simply snapped in place after disconnecting the wire harness plug (must be done with the lid open btw).

I was lucky to diagnose the problem accurately so that the first thing I suspected turned out to be the problem!

Tub did not center and seal was hanging out of tub

  • Customer: James from Nelsonville, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Laid washer on front side and removed top spring, then lifted the tub assembly to replace the right side spring, the one behind the motor was the hardest, I lifted the tub then removed the spring bracket at the tub with pliers and a socket. The top seal all I had to do was take the 4 screws that hold the top on (it takes a long extension) then sit it bak up and I lifted the top up to give me enough room to unsnap the top piece of the tub, cleaned it up put seal in. The parts fit perfitlt and real fast shipping, I bookmarked the site and will buy from again. JIM

Washer would not wash,spin or drain.

  • Customer: Michael from Covington, LA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I thought that the lid switch was the problem why the washer would not perform the drain or spin cycle. I broke the lid switch by moving the wires around. I rigged it so my daughter could use it by screwing a screw in the switch til the new one came in. After a few days, the machine stopped working again as stated above with the motor. I purchased a new Whir-pool washer for her and later found a white wire that connects to the electric motor was burnt around the connector in that only one tiny wire was still attached. I reconnected the wire in the connector and the washer started working again.

Two problems - washer stopped and had to open and close lid several times to restart. Problem 2 - could not get inlet valve to take in hot water.

  • Customer: Harry from Bensalem, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
1. Read a repair manual that I bought several years ago for this model. Pictures and notes for removing control panel and back cover of washer were very helpful. Replacing the lid switch was easy as long as you have the lid open when locking it down. The control valve was easy and I swapped out wires one at a time to make sure I didn't swap hot for cold. I then removed valve and locked down new one. Reversing the control panel and back skin were easy with a second set of hands to hold the back panel in place while installing two bottom screws. The parts resolved the problems.

washer would fill but not run

  • Customer: steve from madison, SD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
After reading other comments about lid switch replacement , I knew the front of the control panel would move forward and lift off. Although none of the descriptions mention the steel clips that were also use to hold the cover down. It does take quite a bit of presure to pry these up and loose before panel would move forward. Would recomend putting tape on both washer and screwdriver to protect washer.
All Instructions for the 7MMSL0100TW0
31-45 of 241