341974-1-M-Whirlpool-3360629-Gearcase.jpg
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Gearcase

PartSelect Number PS341974

This is used in your direct drive washer that has a neutral drain.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Pumps but will not spin.
  • Will not agitate.
  • Unusual Noise.
  • Compare At

    $228.17
  • You Save

    $38.03
  • Your Price

    $190.14
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.4 / 5.0, 3 reviews What's this?
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41 of 51 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerTroy from Storm Lake IA

Tub wouldn't turn, but motor would allow it to drain.

I took the two screws for the control panel out and tilted it up and back. Then remove the two metal clips which held the outer panel to the back panel. After disconnecting the power and water I tipped the washer on its back. I had to remove two clips to take the water pump off of the motor, then removed the two screws and clips which held in the motor. After removing the motor, I found the coupler was bad. To remove the gearcase, I took out the softener dispenser and removed one bolt to take out the agitator. Under the agitator was a clip. Three bolts held the gearcase to the frame. After removing them, the gearcase pulled straight out the bottom. Replacement was just a reverse process, with the addition of a light coat of grease to the gearcase shaft.

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22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsScrew drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)

CustomerJohn from Upper Montclair NJ

Some of the teeth on the gears within the gear case stripped. And also, some of the agitator clutch parts were warped (they were plastic).

I'm not the one who actually did the repair, so I can't give you a blow-by-blow description. But my friend did the actual repair (I found and ordered the parts from your web site).

There was one almost insurmountable problem, however. The three-pin cog that connects the new gear case to the rest of the washing machine was changed.......the cross-section of each of the cogs was not round.....but teardrop shaped. I ordered the correct gear case, based upon the model number of the machine, but apparently somewhere down the years Whilrlpool must have changed the cog profile design.

So, the man who did the repair simply got out a metal mill file and filed down each of the cogs so that they were round. It wasn't perfect, but it worked.

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54 of 236 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)

CustomerFrancis from Ann Arbor MI

Drum and agitator did not turn and machine squealed.

As best described in the clutch DIYs, removed the enclosure, unclipped the water pump, motor and elec. harness to check the coupling. The bushing separated from the plastic fingers which caused the squealing. Checked the gearbox and it turned for a limited amount before jamming. Ordered new gearcase and clutch (since it was over 10 yrs. old.), and a coupling. (Gearcase comes with half a coupling, so check if req'd for motor shaft.)
For ease of removing and re-installing the motor it is best the machine lays on its back. This way the grommets and coupling can be easily aligned on the face-plate without having to manually support the weight of the motor. In the tub, unsnap two agitator caps. The inner one has no tabs to break so pry and pull on the "ears". Use 7/16" socket wrench with extension to unscrew the bolt holding agitator to gear shaft end. Assuming the motor and face-plate are still off, unscrew the three screws holding the gearcase in place and slide it out. Before installing the new clutch onto the new gear shaft, slide the plastic thrust spacer? (in kit but not shown in any instructions) down the shaft, observing which is the correct side. Check for correct clutch spring, as per instructions. Slide clutch, open side up, down the shaft. Instal wire retainer (this can be tricky) and circlip. if the brake assembly slid down while sliding out the gear shaft, squeeze its spring with a pipe wrench and push it back up (with rubber mallet). The clutch kit comes with a plastic pawl? which mounts under the brake and mates with the clutch. If the locating pins for the old part are broken off, drill them out of their holes so the new part fits snug. Insert the gear shaft up the brake sleeve into the agitator so their splines mate. Screw gear case to its mounts, agitator to shaft end (not too tight here) and snap on caps. Screw on face-plate, replace coupling on motor shaft (if req'd.), set motor on face-plate, aligning the coupling and checking the grommets fit in their holes. Instal motor holding clips (with screws), mount water pump with its holding clips, and wire harnesses. Stand up machine and replace enclosure, back panel and hoses.
Replacing the gearcase was easy. Because of space limitations, removing and replacing the enclosure, etc. was a b**** that took most of my time. And watch the lid doesn't fall on your fingers!

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