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rental property stove only had 2 working burners and bottom drawer off track
first i took out burners then i took out the screws of the termnal block bracket. i then raised the lid on the stoveand clipped the wires on all 4 of the terminal block kits.i then slipped the shrink wrap on wires and used the wire nuts to connect wires together then heated the shrink wrap. I then put screws back in terminal block brackets. I then put the burners on while looking under lid so i would know they were making good connections as this is a bad design from factory. if you pull out burners to clean them and they are not put back in right you dont have a good connection and that causes the terminal blocks to get hot and melt. thats what happened in my case. As far as the drawer glides they just snap into place
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
Frst I slid the drawer out.I then pryed the broken drawer glides off with a flat blade screwdriver. The new drawer glides then just snap into place,then reinstall the drawer and check for smooth operation.
drawer was tilting and wouldn't slide open easily.
The old glides were broken off so I didn't know I needed these glides until I saw the parts section of the Manuel. When they arrived I snapped them in with no effort at all. P.S. The shipping is fantastic here......i ordered on Monday received them on Tuesday. Now that's shipping:>)
The two back door glides were missing and broken (one of each), and needed to be replaced. Finding the parts online was MUCH easier than I expected,and the repair was remarkably simple. Parts snapped into place, the drawer had to be lined up, and it slid right into place. Very easy!
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe. I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up. the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires. After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.
I followed the directions by clipping wires to old burner socket, splicing the wires to new terminal block, screwing down new "block bracket," and plugging in new burner.
Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
Switch Was Making A Arcing Sound When Burner Was On
Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range