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not heat
For the Ignitor - As involved as taking the dryer completely apart sounded, it was super easy. 1-take out the lint trap and remove the two screws there. 2-Pop open the top with a screw driver and swing the top completely over/back. 3- remove the two screws holding in the front panel and remove the panel. 4- loosen the belt by pushing on the tension roller under the drum on the right and remove the drum (its super light) use the belt as a handle. 5- remove the screw holding in the ignitor and replace it with the new one. Be careful to not touch the new ignitor. Then go backwards putting it back together.
Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.
flame fadedout after unit got hot; problem turned out to be the solenoid coils
removed frt & rear panels & drum and lint chute for seal replacement replaced these components, problem didn't go away, ordered & replaced both gas valve coils (m series coil kit) problem solved
The dryer quit working. I did some trouble shooting on your amazing site, ordered what i thought it might need and then got to work. Took no time to get it apart and replace roller kit and belt. What took the longest was getting in there and cleaning out probably 15 years worth of dirt and dust. If you have not opened your dryer up and done this, 10/10 recommend, because in doing so i found that the motor was the real culprit. Once i opened it up more, especially cleaning around the blower fan and motor, i was half a day in. Put it all back together and got it running for two more loads before the motor quit. Replaced that and since the hard work was done, had it back in in half an hour and running great. Probably will need to redo the felt seal one day, but for now, i am calling it a win. This is my go to site for all things and i have been able to work on most of my major appliances and do it myself using the helpful information here.
It was having a hard time starting and would quit.
First I had to take the top of the dryer off by taking the two screws off of the lint trap on top then I pushed the top forward a little and lifted up. Then I had to take the front of the dryer off (I think there was two screws). After that I had to take the belt off to be able to get the drum out. I pulled off the old seal and had to use some glue remover to get the old glue off. I then put the new seal on did a little bit at a time to make sure it was on correctly. The glue is really sticky once it starts to dry. It takes two people to put the seal on especially when it gets down to the end. Although my dryer defenitly needed a new seal it was not the problem. It was not very difficult at all, just more time consuming with trying to get the old glue off. Will be buying a new motor, found one cheap and alot less expensive than buying a new dryer considering when I am done I will pretty much have a new dryer for about $120.00.
No heat, would not light because igniter burnt out
Unplug dryer. Remove the front bottom panel of dryer 2 screws, then unplug wire connector to the old igniter then unscrew one screw holding ignitor then wiggle out. Open new igniter wiggle back in place insert screw tighten, (getting this screw back in is a little hard) replug wire connector to new igniter replace front panel with two screws. Plug in dryer and there you go drying clothes again. Wife all happy again.
I ordered the belt idler pully and drum support rollers and after watching the video on Parts Select web page, changed the parts. It could be done by one person, however having a second person to help with the drum installation worked great. I discovered the motor bearing on the front side of the motor was the source of the squeek. I disassembled the dryer again and removed the motor. After ordering a motor the installation and reassembly went smoothly. The parts came in two days of placing the orders and virtually new parts in the dryer makes it seem like a new machine.
Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I decided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!
1) Unplug power cable from dryer. 2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with Phillips head screwdriver. 3) Remove the lint filter screen. 4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel. 5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the top panel for temporary support. 6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole. 7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal locking clips for a tight fit. 8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute. 9) Reinstall lint filter screen. 10) Reconnect power cable for dryer. 11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and front) are tight and secured. Repair Duration: 5 minutes
First I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. Next I removed the dryer vent hose and threw it away and replaced it with a more rigid metal vent hose. Next, I used a socket wrench to removed the screws holding on the back cover of the dryer. Once the back cover was off it was just a matter of using the socket wrench to removed the bolt holding the sensor in place. After the part was removed I made sure the replacement was orientated in the same way as the original part and then I unplugged the wires from the bad sensor and placed them in the same order on the new part and then I bolted the new sensor back in place. Since the new part has been installed the dryer is working flawlessly and is not turning off mid-cycle like it was. ***Oh, and an important reminder. When you have the back cover pulled off the dryer use a shop vacuum to suck out any dirt and lint in the back of the dryer and make sure you unbolt the metal chute that the dryer lint screen goes into and clean inside the area near the exhaust blower. This is a VERY IMPORTANT part of servicing your dryer and should be done every few months to help avoid the risk of a fire.****
Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!
Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.
The dryer was squeaking and would not heat at all.
The first thing I did was call my friend Donnie who manages some apartment buildings and who is always complaining about fixing things and getting the right parts to fix things. He told me what to order from PartsSelect and when the parts got here I called him up and he did the repair work.
He was reluctant to do the work at first but after he found out I had ordered the parts from PartsSelect he was happy to do the work. "Their parts are always right and they always work," was what he said after he had my dryer working just like new. So if you know nothing about fixing things and buying parts just call PartsSelect and you will be fine. Just ask my friend Donnie!!!