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water appearing under refrigerator
Unplugged the refrigerator and turned off the water to the ice maker valve. Removed the water line at both ends (small crescent wrench). Removed the cover from the water valve area (two Phillips head screws). Removed the valve (two screws - small nut driver) and pulled off the two electrical connections.
Installed the new valve with the reverse procedure though the holding screws didn't line up with the existing holes in the refrigerator metal frame. I let it go with one screw holding ... didn't have a drill with me to make a second screw hole.
Replaced the old water line (from the wall to the valve) with a steel-reinforced hose.
Cut the female metal connector from the old water line up to the freezer and it fit nicely into the push-in outlet from the new valve. Turned everything back on and waited for the ice maker to cycle. To my dismay, the leak had been coming from the plastic line that goes from the valve up to the ice maker. It had split, spraying water. Replaced that and everything works fine.
Lesson learned: Don't assume water near the icemaker valve actually is from the valve or its water connections. Watch the whole system cycle a couple of times to see what's really happening. Glad to have a new valve but the basic problem was the icemaker tubing.
Frig and freezer were defrosting and refreezing other than normal. Home warranty contractor told me ice maker was faulty. Purchased new ice maker. Unplugged frig, loosened 2 screws with nut driver. unplugged old ice maker, lifted old ice maker out. Took old fill cup off old unit and put on new unit since new fill cup was a different size. Swapped ice maker insert from old to new unit. Plugged in new ice maker, slid over the 2 screws, tightened, and plugged in frig power. New ice maker works fine but still have defrosting and refreezing problem. Figure old ice maker probably works just fine. New contractor still trying to solve problem. Have had problems with this GE Monagram keeping proper temps since it was new in 2005, don't recommend it.
First turned off power and removed top shelf. Then I used a flathead to slowly pry the switch out by the two sides. You just anlge ita bit and it slideds out easily. Then I disconnected the wires from the old switch, connected the new one and installed the new switch by snapping it back into the cutout.
The defrost timer was very easy to replace. Two screws and one electrical bracket and that was it. The defrost thermostat required the removal of the freezer shelves and rear panel. A philips for the panel screws and a slotted screw driver to wedge in-between the side and rear panel. The rear panelcame right out. The defrost thermostat is very accessible simply mounted to a metal bracket on the evaporator coil. My only problem was the new thermostat did not include instructions or a picture of a correct installation. The old thermostat did not seem it was installed correctly and it wasn't. It was simply hanging away from the evaporator coil, sort of out in space. Seeing the "V" shape on the new thermostat and metal mounting bracket configuration it was simple to see that it was suppose to fit snug against the evaporator coil. In addition to using the provided twist-on wire insolators I soldered the two electrical connections leading from the frig to the new thermostat. Reverse the above procedure and the job it finished. Now running better than new.
Look were timer was located, in my refigerator is next to the dial to ajust the temperature. used a screwdriver to get panel off. replaced timer then used a straight screwdriver to advance timer to turn on compessor . monitor temperature . checked out.
New ice maker only used 2 screws and the old one had 3. This was no problem. The old ice maker had already been removed. Just loosen the 3 screws and unplug the cord to ice maker. Only problem with ice maker was with the cord, which I had to use the supplied adapter. It was too long and in the way when reinstalling the ice bin. The ice bin had a small notch area on the bottom left. I used a plastic tie to bundle the cord into the notch. Carefully placed ice bin and no problem. The first part I received was damaged and was replaced 2 days later by a brand new part. Customer service charged for the replacement part but said they would credit my charge card within 2 to 3 weeks for the damaged part. Its been a week and if they follow thru like the said I woild give Part Select 5 Stars for service and Parts.
The valve is not a direct replacement,seems they are not available,had to bend mtg. brkt. so valve would mount in same position and cut off screw type pressure fitting so could slide discharge tube into new type connection, no instructions come with replacement valve,asked several places for info wanted to be sure before cutting off end of discharge tube. Now valve shuts off but water still in base of refrigerator must be a leak in inlet tube behind freezer compartment.
After disconnecting refrig. line cord .Removed phillips screw on left side of air distribution console where temp control is located. removed temp control knob and two screws witch mounts temp control . Disengaged temp control capulary tube and two electrical connections . Removed defective thermostat and plastic sleeve from same ... them reversed procedure to in stall. It took about 40 minutes for the whole procedure. Confession.... I worked for GE appliance repair many years ago . 50 years ago I could have done it in 15 minutes . Old folks just slow down something terrible.
1) I removed the icemaker and placed on work table. 2) I pried the front plastic cover from the control box to expose the front base. 3) I removed the three mounting screws from the base (it is not necessary to remove the screw in the plastic gear) and removed the front base. This exposed the back base 4) Using an ohmmeter, I was able to isolate a bad contact on one of the three microswitches in the control box (the one that was mounted to the back base). Replacing this microswitch solved the problem.
Both the freezer and refridgerator seals were leaking
We took the old seals off, T\they really just peal off, and replaced with the new ones.We were not really sure how they went on, because there really was no instructions with the seals, but we figured it out. After we really figured it out and got started, it was pretty easy. The only instructions that come with it is how to prep the seals before they go on.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.
Condensor Fan not turning. I thought it would be an easy fix. I thought I could pull off the shroud and fan assy - no joy. Too many copper pipes and lots of tubing in the way. It took 90 minutes to remove and 30 minutes to install. The BIG hint here is to loosen the shoud, pull it back as far as you can and then remove the nut that holds the fan blade in place. THEN you can remove the motor. Get the new motor back into the shroud, get the blade back on and then tighten the shroud back up.
Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
