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Strong odor of gas when oven in use. Oven took over a minute to light with low flame level (ie 1/4").
Removed bottom plate from oven enclosure. Removed the two screw holding the burner in place. Disconnected plug to element, making sure wire did not fall back into underside of oven. Removed heating element. Replaced element & reinserted burner assembly into oven. Checked oven operation before reinstalling bottom plate. Oven ignition was less than 15 seconds with over one inch flame from burner.
oven in range would not stay lit or achieve temperature
I slide range away from wall, unplugged the electric. Lifted door off the hinges for easy access. The broiler drawer also comes right out. Removed racks and then took out bottom panel. The ignitor is mounted with two hex nut screws. They came out with a phillips head screwdriver. The plug connector is accessable from the rear or the range, there was nothing else to take off. I simply unplugged the connection, pulled the wire through the insulation, screwed on the new ignitor and pushed the plug and wire back through the insulation and plugged it in. The job took less than 25 minutes and that time included cleaning behind, under and inside the range! Oven lit first time it was turned on and works as good as new.
1. Unplugged power cord and remove bottom oven tray. 2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve. 3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter. 4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers). 5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector). 6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape. 7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation. 8. Removed coat hanger when got through. 9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws. 10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve. 11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.
Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
This oven was purchased in 1992 . Hardest & time consuming issue was getting the old part out. First unplug unit from outlet. Take off oven door(very easy to do). Take out oven racks & lift out bottom of oven(also simple to do). Pull out storage drawer all the way out & put aside out of your way. Take off burner baffle. This is held on with 1 butterfiy screw. This igniter plugs in the same way a phone slips into the jack. Use a flash light if needed. Where you pulled the storage drawer out from all the way in the back pull out the connection holding the old ignition wires into the oven(this is the phone type part spoke of above). Go back into the oven & un screw the 2 screws that hold in the igniter to the bake burner pipe. Now you can carefully pull out the old igniter since you already unpluged it earlier. Slip connection wires from new igniter in the same hole old was pulled from in back of oven. Screw the 2 screws into the new igniter to hold it to the bake burner pipe. Go back down to the storage draw space & plug into bottem back. Replace storage drawer. Replace burner baffle. Replace bottem of oven making sure to seat it in correctly. Replace door . Remember to connect to electric again & you should be good to go. I would like to now say something about the excellent service received from parts select. They have an excellent user friendly site & I received my part the next day.
Lower burner failed to light, broiler running fine
Broiler lighting fine but main oven burner not lighting. I deduced the oven igniter was most likely the point of failure. Decided to replace empirically rather than time and money for service call. Process was about as easy as replace a computer part. Removed pan and flameguard. Unplugged part from below (after removing drawer). Such a simple plug I didn't bother to throw the breaker / power down the oven. Pulling it out to get to wall plug not an option. Unscrewed old part, saw a flaw had developed in the element. Screwed on the new part, plugged it in, inserted insulation in the hole. Tested for lighting - lit first time. Replaced guard and pan, oven has worked reliably since. Research time was 5x the repair time, but in all a fraction of time and money to have a "pro."
Remove lower pan. This is tricky -- pull clips at the back of the pan forward (they may stick), Then push pan to back and lift forward portion up, exposing igniter and gas tube. Use nut driver or socket set to unscrew the two mounting screws. Had to use pliers at one point to pull on screws while turning as they were cross-threaded, perhaps due to heat. Cut wires to igniter. Pull out oven and look at exterior back of stove -- at bottom near the center opening. The power feeder wires to the igniter are red and terminate in a jack -- disconnect the igniter plug connector and pull the cut wire through. Back to the inside of the stove: you now have to force the connector for the new igniter through the insulation at the back. Pull some of the old insulation out to make this possible -- new insulation is provided in the kit. Then at back of stove connect new igniter plug to power feed jack. Then screw in new igniter with the original screws. I had to use pliers again while turning to force them past the cross-threaded area. Replace bottom pan and you are in business, saving a lot of money!!
oven ignighter would glow, but oven would not work
I removed the two screws holding the ignighter on, pulled it a few inches, disconnected the plug, plugged the new ignighter in, tightened the two screws, turned on the power, and it worked. 1,2,3.
Remove the the drawer of the gas range on the bottom, on the right side there is a alluminum cover with a bunch wires, held on with two screws,inside is the igniter kit module, make sure you unplug the range from the wall . unplug the wires from the unit and plug the new unit up and you are finish.Good luck.
First, I removed the racks, door, bottom drawer, and lifted the bottom pan up and out from the rear. Then, I unscrewed the bottom cover for the electrical stuff (under where the drawer is) as this is where the connector for the igniter is. I did a voltage test on the oven side of the connector, finding voltage there I removed the igniter by removing the 2 screws holding it to the burner. (pack lunch for that part, they will be rusted, I used a mini grinder to cut off the heads). Then I pulled the connector through the hole, and installed new igniter using self drilling screws. After i repacked the insulation, I put it back together, and it lit right up. The failed one had a bad ballast, confirmed by a continuity test.
Pulled out the plug, pulled out the stove, removed the oven door, pulled out the lower shelf and racks. Used a nutdriver to remove the 2 screws from the bracket, disconnected the old ignitor, new ignitor was an exact replacement, put back in the screws, pushed back the stove and plugged it back in....Was back in business in a matter of seconds!!
