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PartSelect Number PS304103
Also known as Thermistor. This part is used to sense the temperature in the cabinet.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.
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No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.
My refrigerator's initial problem was as follows:1. Freezer fan stopped circulating the cooled air. Causing food to thaw at the top of the freezer, and freeze solid at the bottom. Ice in the icemaker thawed.2. Water dripped from the freezer door gasket when the freezer was in defrost mode & water dispenser would not dispense water.--FIX (the easy one first..):2. I removed the inner freezer door panel and found ice filling every void of the freezer door panel-approx 5 lbs of ice dammed in the panel. I thawed the insulation and removed the ice. Also there is a styrofoam insulating surround around the inside of the dispenser panel. The styrofoam had become saturated with water and was freezing, allowing the drinking water tube to freeze, not allowing the refrigerator to dispense water...THE CAUSE:2. Overflowing of water from the in-door ice/water dispenser compartment reservoir (just under the grill where your glass sits, when it's dispensing water) was draining into the freezer door panel.PREVENTION:2. Check the reservoir more frequently to make sure water does not build up and overflow into the door.FIX (now the trickier one..)1. I initially thought it was the main circuit board. I replaced the board. Access is by removing the 3 hex nut screws holding door in place at the rear of the freezer. Disconnect connectors & using a needle nose pliers, squeezed the plastic catches that hold the board in place. Connect the new board (being careful not to touch the components or traces on the board) to the connectors, then snap into place using the white plastic catches.Close everything up. NOTE: This may, may not have contributed to the problem, but my refrigerator light went out. I replaced it with a small flouresent bulb. That bulb did not last, and became inop. Shortly afterward, the freezer started malfunctioning. I replaced the board, and the freezer was still somewhat intermittent. I replaced the bulb with an appliance 60 watt. The freezer has been perfect since... Note: I first ordered the main circuit board, when that didn't immediately fix the problem, I ordered the above parts. I did not need the parts and am returning them. The web page is forcing me to select at least one of the parts needed for the repair, when I used neither.
On the PartSelect website, I chose the 'refridgerator is too warm' problem choice. The site sugested replacing the sensors so I purchased them. The drain trough on the refrigerator side was leaking and it and the defrost thermostat were not too expensive so I bought them too. Once the parts arrived I installed them. I had already disassembled the inside of the freezer. The sensors and thermostat had to be connected electrically. So I cut off the old parts and stripped their wires. (the new parts' wires were already stripped.) I then used wire nuts to connect the new wires to the old and stuffed the wire back into its compartment and installed its cover. The defrost Thermostat has to be clipped to the refrigeration line. So after attaching its wires I had to work it into its place. I then reassembled the inside of the freezer and let it sit for an hour before turning it back on. Once it was turned on it seemed to work well, but after only 3 or 4 days the coils began freezing over again.
Unplugged the refrigerator and removed inside back panel from the freezer compartment and left doors open to allow all ice to thaw. I chose not to use a hair dryer and speed up the process as this could possibly cause more damage if not done with caution. After all ice was melted i took both screws from heat element assembly and followed the simple instructions that came with the new part. Since meters an i dont really work well together and since defrost thermostat and temp sensor were so inexpensive. I opted to purchase those as well in my initial order. They were as simple to replace as a lightbulb. Unscrew the wire nuts from existing sensors and screw wire nuts back on to the new sensors. Buy purchasing all three items at once i felt it just ensured the fiz was complete and the unit has been operating for 7 days like new. One thing i would pass on. If it is the heating element that is burned out, the glass tuve on mine was very black and charred looking. Also when you take it out of the assembly the element was actually in two pieces. Did something cause the element to stay on until it burned out or just old age i dont know. Again, for less than 20 bucks i purchased the additional parts that would seem most obvious to replace and i would recommebd the same. Part select saved us a lot of money not only in parts but in allowing someone with no considerable knowledge in this areato make repairs without hiring an expensive repairman.
took back panel off in freezer.unpluged unit then cut wire to sensor tie in new one wire nut them up and taped.on the heater strip took off two screws and unpluged two wires put the new in same way as taking old one off.I am pleased that the parts from part select came as fast as they did I would for sure buy from them again and prices were very fair.Thank you very much for your service.
I am a 45 year old woman who is pretty handy but with no prior knowledge about appliance repair. I do have the attitude that if someone else can do it, so can I, which is helpful. I was able to watch a video on this website that showed me exactly how to replace one of the three parts that I replaced. It totally made it easy so that I knew what to do with the wiring. So far, my side by side is working great. I'm the champion! This repair cost me about $75. Who knows how much a repair man would have charged just to look at it.
Thanks to the very fine posts on this site, and availablity of parts, I didn't have to call in a repair man. Due to the near-10 year age of unit, I first ordered a new fridge for the kitchen and moved the GE to the garage. Let it manually defrost. Figured based upon comments posted here I was dealing with the defrost system problem so ordered the temperature sensors for top and botton, the defrost thermostat, and the defrost heater. As a wise poster said, if I am going to pull the damn thing apart, I'm going to make sure I have all three parts in case I need a particular one. Do not have the skill or gauges to troubleshoot electrical components. Parts arrived from Parts Select in great time, and excellent packaging protection. Parts Select also has great diagrams of the unit, although I could not find written repair instructions anywhere. At first I was going to wait for the parts to arrive and replace everything, but since there was a dely in getting the new fridge in, and the freezer section of the old fridge worked fine, once I had defrosted the old fridge, and cleaned up a few of the rusted over connections, I put everything back together, to await new fridge and receipt of parts for old fridge. Well, as is the story of my Karmic life, once fridge defrosted, and I put everything back together, plugged old unit in inside garage, everything came back up working perfectly on the recommended settings for both freezer and fridge sections. Has continued to maintain correct temps for over a week now. Also have new fridge. Don't recommend the top freezer Maytag one for about $700, as construction is cheap, and temps fluctuate all over the place. Had Home Depot exchange out for the LG $740 top freezer model, and am really impressed with its construction and performance so far. (Both units are recommended buys by ConsumerRepots.Org) Not sure how long old unit will keep running correctly, nor what caused it to come back to life after the defrost. Perhaps a simple clogged drain tube, or shorted out rusted electrical connections that I cleaned. Anyway, am keeping Part Select parts on hand for possible future breakdown, and enjoying having both fridges running. We needed additional freezer space, and got the peace of mind of a new unit for the kitchen.
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
Replaced defrost thermostat along with temp sensor watched the video on this page simple fix
I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.
Replaced Defrost Thermostat. Tricky removal of light fixture cover and evaporator cover. Light cover screw removal is not intuiitive and the eveaporator cover tabs are not easy AT ALL to remove.Once they are removed, simply 2 screw removal of rear panel. Had to unscrew screws holding cooling coils to gain access to thermostat mounted on a coil in rear. Simkple matter to cut wires, remove old thermostat and splice replacement back on. Found it simpler to re-mount thermostat on top coil greatly simplifying process.(Why didn't they place the original unit in this much more accesible place?)Re-attach coils to rear wall replace rear panel, light fixture cover and evaporator cover. Refrigerator has been running fine this past week.Received parts NEXT DAY! FANTASTIC!
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