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PartSelect Number PS273296
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed front cover, Control panel, top Cover, slasher unit, all very smiple stuff. the hub was broken and the spinner basket came right out. One half Hub attached to Spinner, Other half attached to Hub drive shaft. removing the Hub nut was the hard part. tried impack & socket, No luck. in removal. Had to usr Hammer & Chisel and bust Old Alum. Nut off. Clean up and replace parts. OK. Had to remove water pump and clear debree that went in pump when spinner Hub broke off . the spinner also bursted a crack in the outer poly tube when it cam apart.. Sanded the dmage area and Patched with a good coat of JB Weld. machine is working Like new. The parts all worked Great. the break down Chart was a great Help to get the right parts needed. Thanks
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the hardest part was getting the hub nut off. You have no room for a big wrench, I ended up chiseling it off.once I got it a part I saw the transmission was leaking oil, I checked every thing else, every thing seemed fine. I read on this web site that a common failure was the hub, mine was not in the best of shape so I replaced it while I was in there.replaced tub bearing,washer hub, hub nut , retaining clip for clutch,ring split, transmission and tub bearing 1/2 and $250.00 later the machine works like new.The diagrams that give you the part numbers were very helpful in the reassembly.
I used the other 4 posting as a guideline but found that what wasn't mentioned here was that the disassembly/re-assembly instructions are actually located inside the washing machine behind the control panel (wish I knew that before I started doing it on my own).After removing the control knobs (temperature, cycle, etc.), unscrew the four screws and lift the control panel off. Underneath the panel, there was a folded up wiring diagram that includes assembly instructions on the back.Like others here, everything went smooth until I tried to get the Hub Nut (PS271505) off. No matter how hard I tried turning or hitting it (or the wrenches), it wouldn't move at all. I followed the other people's advise here and ended up taking a hammer and small chisel to the side of the nut. It's an aluminum nut so it cracked pretty easily and was easy to remove after that. Take my advise and just break the nut off if you are having any sort of difficulties getting it to turn. It's worth the extra $11 to just buy a new one!
Remove aggitator, disconect 4 support straps, pry off clips/ latches on top of drum. Remove small bolt that holds on the small plastic unit unto trans.That will give you access to the large bolt that holds the hub in place. This nut is on tight use a pipe wrench and adjustable wrench and TURN CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE - lock for direction on nut.Remove the bin gently and turn over to remove the small bolts that hold the hub in place.Installation is reverse of removal.
Biggest problem was getting old hub nut off. I had to remove it in pieces because it was corroded so bad. Once hub nut was off it was a breeze to replace the parts after cleaning off the threads and shaft. Reassembled in reverse order.. and ran. I have to give accolades to PartSelect.. their customer service is second to none. i ordered the parts just before the Christmas holiday and they shipped them to my door in under 24 hours at no extra charge to see that I got them on time... THANKS!.. It sure helped. Would I do business here again.. YEP!I will recommend you to others. Thanks.
at the bottom of the tub their is a mettal peace witch holds the tub to the transmision witch is made of zink(aka junk metal or zink+tin)witch broke stoping tub from sping the clotes dry so atfer odering the new part and nut..and finding out that it is a LEFTHAND nut made of alumanumtaking a small drill bit 1/8" and drilling the nut to weakin it making it brake able then cleaning the treds up the new part fit right in the tufest part was hold the trans still to get the nut on tightenuf to hold the tub
I had to take the washer outside since there was no room to work on it in the laundry room. The extra space allowed me to spread out the parts, use the garden hose to clean and have light enough to take digital pics of the wiring before I disconnected them to remove the upper panel. Removing the upper retaining ring for the tub was simple with only 4 screws. The agitator pulled right up and out. The nut cover/agitator anchor removed easily with one bolt. The tough part was the inner tub base hub nut that I could not get off. Another user had commented on how they had to chisel the nut off and that was the best advice. I used my air chisel on either side of the nut and it was pretty quick to get off - within 3 min. If I hadn't read that I wouldn't have ordered another nut to replace the one I chiseled off. The diagrams and repair stories really made the difference. Cleaning and reassembling was done within about an hour - cleaning the 11 years of soap scum at least an hour total before and after replacing the parts.
It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.
I pulled agitator off revealing rotted hub. Had to remove inner basin from machine. This required pulling off top and tying up to be out off way . I had to get the control panel out of way. Removed back screws and moved it up as though hinged. I had to remove the water fill piece, as this was impeding removal of basin. I had to remove top ring off of inner drum. Needed a second person to hold control panel away as I removed drum. Once drum was out, it was an easy task to replace the rotted hub. I then needed to get the portion that was rotted and still on drive out. Could not wrench the hub nut out due to lack of leverage. Split nut with a chisel. Once old nut out, I cleaned up threads, put inner basin back in, again utilizing assistance in holding control panel out of way. Reinstalled in order. Before I had gone too far, I found that a six pronged jumper had fallen off of the controls. Found where it had been and re-installed. Put remainder back in reverse order. Machine back on line, and working properly.
Removed the front panel and lid.Removed the ring on top of tub and holder.Had to use a rope and pry board to get the agitator off the shaft. Removed the 7/16 cap screw and removed the plastic agitator block.Couldn't get the hub nut off and had to use a chisel to break it off (corroded and a left hand thread).Had to use chisel to free the hub from the center pieces so I could lift out the tub. Then I had to hammer and twist the center piece of the hub to get it off form the transmission shaft.replace in reverse order without any problem once I realize I had a left hand hub nut.
Repair went good, only wish i had bought a new tub seal, washer, an split ring....but i managed to save the original ones an it seems to be working like new again! thanks Partselect!!!!
After reading all the repair info and reviewing the diagram for my wash machine on this website I was ready to tear into my washer. I removed the front panel and lid to access the tub, pulled out the plastic agitator and revealed the broken inner base hub. The base hub was cracked half way around causing the inner tub to drop down and drag on the outer tub, making the washer sound like it was coming through the wall on a spin cycle. I then unbolted the plastic cap and removed it revealing the hub nut. The most valuable piece of advice in the repair info was abouthe hub nut being a laft hand thread (clockwise to loosen)and that it was on really tight and hard to remove. I put a short 8" pipe wrench on it, because of the lack of clearance in the tub, and hit it with the handle of a all steel hammer to break it loose. Unbolted the balancing straps (4) on the plastic top rim cap that holds the tub in place, unsnapped and removed it, then carefully pulled out the tub. I also had to unscrew the the control panel to reveal and remove the 4 screws holding the fill tube brace so I could push it back to remove the tub. I then took the inner tub outside and took it apart, 3 parts. The top plastic rim, the tub, and the broken base hub that are held together with torx screws. Then it was cleanup time, very dirty on the inside, used a garden hose, scrub brush, sponge, and soap. Cleaned up the hub nut threads with a wire brush and then the outer tub withe a sponge and shop vac. When the base hub broke it caused the inner tub and outer tub to rub together making a groove and plastic shards on the bottom of the outer tub that I had to scrape and sand smooth. A shop vac an absolute necessity in getting all the grime and plastic crumbs out of the outer tub so they don't get in and clog the pump. I received the replacement parts in 2 days! Reassembled in reverse order and everything worked great! Not a bad project at all when you know what to expect, thanks to Part Select.com.
Followed the instructions from internet videos and diagrams provided by GE behind the electric panel. The hub nut and remnants of the broken hub had to be ground off. As with the other repairers, the grinding presented some difficulty. Particular care must be taken not to grind into the shaft or other parts on it. Not having much experience in fixing appliances, it came as a surprise that the washer functioned normally after the job was completed. The effort took an afternoon and spilled into the evening.
Well first I had to remove the control panel and that was nice because there was a diagram of the washer in there. So after that I just removed the top, front panel of the washer and top of the drum. Since the hub was broken all around I was able to remove the drum without removing the big nut or the part of the hub that was still attached to the shaft. This gave me a little more room to remove the nut and hub. The nut was difficult and tight. I struggled with it for some time and got nowhere. I then realized that the nut was aluminum and so I just heated it up a bit and it came off with little effort. I had to heat up the remaining part of the hub also to get it off.It doesn’t take much heat to get these parts moving. I used a small torch but a heat gun would be better. Also I painted the new hub to try to slow down the corrosion effect water has on the pot metal. I just used some rattle can engine paint I had. I then cleaned all the parts and put it all back together and all is good.
I looked at the instructions for removing the tub that are on the back of the circuit diagram included in the panel behind the controls. I followed the directions. As one of your commenters had noted, the aluminum Hub Nut is practically impossible to get a hold on without a special wrench so I chiseled it off. That was the most difficult and time comsuming part . I found some pieces of the old hub in the drain line and blocking the drain pump. Be sure to check for this before reassembling and using the washer.
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